I live in Northeastern Pa. This morning after watching Channel 28 WBRE news I installed a Blonder Tongue preamp Vaulter III on the Channel master uhf antenna I have positioned at about 50' in elevation, with hope of getting additional stations. After re-erecting the antenna I discovered I had lost Channel 28 but had gained 7 other channels in the UHF band. I called the station to see if they had dropped the broadcast, they were still up. I've tinkered with the antenna, looked at the map for the antenna transmitter tower locations relative to my address at 18248 to point the antenna precisely, with no luck. Does anyone have an idea why I can not receive that station after the preamp install?

Sounds like you are overdriving the tuner with the pre-amp. Too strong of a signal is just as detrimental as too weak of a signal.

Thanks splicer, what would you suggest to de-tune the signal strength?

Well, first you need to determine that the pre-amp is the cause. Disconnect the pre-amp and see if the channel returns. Then, if it does return, you should see if detuning the antenna (move the antenna slightly off angle) might help bring in Ch.28 and the other 7 channels. If not, you can look for a frequency (channel) specific attenuator to put inline.

acamus,

Blonder is very stingy with their specs, do you have a link you could share, for a spec sheet on the V-III ? If not, do you know what the gain is for UHF/VHF ?
Though Splicers approach for the single channel attenuation is probably the way to go, here's an attenuator, which you may consider. The...
Antennas Direct 1296F Variable Attenuator (http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=1296F)
Also, is this problem showing up on both outputs ?

Splicer,
Would you happen to have a link/ref where there's a list of the Single Channel Attenuators ?

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

If the problem isn't overdriving the tuner it could be that your new channels are interfering with Ch28 check TV Fool (http://www.tvfool.com) to see what you might have for other broadcasters

No I don't have any spec for the preamp output, I did however try the suggestion of removing the amp at the TV end of the coax. No signal came through, which of course means no channels available. I reconnected and turned the antenna 30 degrees east and then west to try to detune for channel 28 input, no help. I lost signal strength on all channels. I noticed the TV comment says "weak or no signal" when I type in 28-1 for the channel 28 selection. Wouldn't a powerful signal cause the tuner to at least recognize the station?

So, you removed the amp completely from the line or did you just 'unplug' the amp? I ask because if you just unplugged the amp then you wouldn't get any signal as you are describing.

As for the powerful signal question, it depends if the tuner would recognize it. As we have been discussing, too strong will overdrive the tuner and you will get a 'no signal' message.

Houston, I do not have any links to a channel specific attenuator. I'm not sure one is even made but that doesn't mean much.;)

No I did not remove the preamp on the antenna. Lowering the antenna is about an hour job and I no one available to help with the guide wires. I will try that strategy in the near future when I have help. I noticed when I went to the suggested site TV Fool (http://www.tvfool.com) that the missing channel is also broadcast on Channel 11 as well as 28-1 which is the channel that disappeared. Also, channel 28 has the highest NM(db) of all the stations available. A signal attenuator for 28 may be the solution as you suggest. I'll try the local electronics store for that device. I'll have to work the next few days, but when time permits I'll take your suggestion to heart. Thank you all for your help, I'll let you know how it plays out.

Ch 11 is VHF and is the real channel 28-1 is on, so you need to add a Vhf antenna to your setup for this channel. Also make sure that preamp you have also passes VHF signals. It may only pass UHF signals.

styxfix, I think you may have hit the nail on the head here in a round-about sort of way. The pre-amp being used is a UHF/VHF model, HOWEVER it has seperate inputs for UHF & VHF. SO if the OP only has his UHF antenna connected to the UHF input, then of course any VHF signals will not be passed. Should this be the case, and I would be willing to bet that it is, therein lies the problem (and solution). The VHF side of the pre-amp needs to be jumpered over to the UHF side, or better yet, add a VHF antenna such as the VHF antenna in my signature and connect to the VHF side of the pre-amp. This should recover 28.1 for the OP. Also other VHF stations (WYOU, WBPH, WPVI, WGAL) are possibilities.

Of course, this is all under the presumption that the pre-amp is a 300ohm in and 75 ohm output model. If it is the 300 ohm output model, there is only one 300 ohm input for both UHF & VHF, and we are back at square one. We need the OP to clarify the model he is using.

http://www.blondertongue.com/reception/galaxy.pdf

I think Styfix truly did hit the nail on the head.:up The OP is attempting to receive a VHF station with a UHF antenna. The reception seen on VHF 11 beforehand was purely incidental, and the addition of the pre-amp has likely upset the delicate balance that luckily worked at that time.

For some reason those Blonder-Tongue pre-amps look to be a bit noisier than the more commonly used Winegard & Channel master units. I also thought that a UHF only amp would just pass the VHF frequencies un-amplified (like Winegard models), but not sure if all models do.:confused:

acamus,

I took the opportunity to look up Your Chart (http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3dbc273a63e12de2)
And I'm sorry to tell you this, but I've definitely seen better ! :eek:

Just to clarify...
The Column marked "Real", is the Channel Frequency Number, that the Antenna actually has to be able to receive.
The "(Virt)" column, are the numbers you enter into your Remote/Tuner, to select that channel.
You can blame the FCC for that, but, it's the way it's done.
An Antenna should always be selected, according to the Frequencies listed in the "Real" Column of your Chart, for your specific location.

So, given what I see in your chart, you MUST have an Antenna which at least receives Channels 7-69, but, if you have a Full Range Antenna Ch 2-69. that would work too.
Do you know what kind of Antenna you have ?
If not, maybe you could attach a picture of it, and someone may be able to identify it for you.

I think your choice to add an Pre-Amp to your system, was a good idea.
However, given that we don't know what the output(s) are for the V-III, I may have suggested the...
ChannelMaster AP-8780 (http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=03&p=AP8780&d=Winegard-AP-8780-Chromstar-2000-UHFVHF-Preamp-75-Ohm-Input-(AP8780)&c=Pre-Amplifiers&sku=615798100209)

I was under the impression, that the V-III Amp, had only One Input for the Antenna, but TWO Outputs (like for two TV's) and that it supported both VHF and UHF.

So to re-cap what you need to do...
1) Get us the Make/Model of your Antenna, or, a Picture of it.
2) Tell us if the wire you're using on the V-III is 300 ohm (Flat Cable) or Coaxial.
3) Look at the V-III, or the Paperwork for it, and see if there are separate inputs for VHF and UHF, or just one input, and one output.
4) Then IF there are separate inputs for VHF and UHF, which one do you have your Antenna connected to.

One other thing...
Are you sure that you're Aim is directly on the Channel. Do you have a Compass, and are sure that the Antenna is on 45° Magnetic ?

I apologize for my redundancy, the other Contributors to this issue, having said the same thing. But, I thought it may be helpful to offer a step by step approach .

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

Ok guys, I've gotten the message. The preamp has duel input for 300 ohm, one of which is connected to the UHF antenna and a single coax output. I'm shopping for a combo antenna, probably will buy the winegard 7694, it has good gain and the towers are approximately <30 miles from my home. Any preference on uhf/vhf antennas?

acamus,

The...
Winegard HD7694P (http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=03&p=HD7694P&d=Winegard-HD-7694P-High-Definition-VHFUHF-HDHD769-Series-Antenna-(HD7694P)&c=TV Antennas&sku=615798398446)
is a great Antenna, but I think you're cutting it a little too close on the Range.

The usual "Rule of Thumb" is, to multiply the distance from you to the Transmitter by 1.5, and select an Antenna on that mileage.

That would make the...
Winegard HD7696P (http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=03&p=HD7696P&d=Winegard-HD-7696P-High-Definition-VHFUHF-HD7696-Series-Antenna-(HD7696P)&c=TV%20Antennas&sku=615798398477)
a better choice, and, you'd have a little better Gain too.

Now, this is assuming that you're going to leave it stationary at your 45° Azimuth.
Had you thought of ever putting a Rotator on your system ?
If that is a consideration, then the Antenna suggested above, would be short of reaching out to your CW station at 214°, and I would say that the...
Winegard HD7697P (http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=03&p=HD7697P&d=Winegard-High-Definition-VHFUHF-HD769-Series-Antenna-(HD7697P)&c=TV%20Antennas&sku=615798398484)
would be the choice there.

In either case, I think you're going to have to get another Amp, and the one I mentioned in my previous post, would work well with either of the proposed Antennas.

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

PS: The word "Combo" is generally associated with a Full Range Antenna (Ch 2-69).

You have a dedicated UHF antenna. I would recommend that you get a dedicated VHF antenna such as the AntennaCraft Y5-7-13 Highband-Broadband VHF Yagi. You will get the best results with dedicated antennas. Combos are not as good and for convienence only. I use the antenna suggested and I am 30+ miles from the towers as well, and I have excellent results. No complaints, no dropouts. And it is inexpensive as well.

acamus,

I'll definitely go along with Splicer recommendation for the Y5, IF you want to go with a combined system. Since you're dong the 300 ohm, I'd use the...
Winegard SD3700 (http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=SD-3700)
to put those two together.
Splicer, have you used one of those, or do you do Coax ?

I'll say this though...
I think Splicer is the luckiest guy around, when it comes to combining Antennas,
Not everyone has very good luck doing that.

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

The OP absolutely DOES NOT need the http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=SD-3700 , since he already has a combining pre-amp. He has 1-300ohm UHF in & 1-300ohm VHF in & 1-75ohm out. So the combiner/balun is built in. Nothing else needs to be added.

To answer Houstons question, I use a UVSJ to combine UHF & VHF:Pico Macom UVSJ UHF VHF Band Separator/Combiner for Antenna (UVSJ) - Pico Macom - UVSJ - UVSJ - UVSJ (http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=03&p=UVSJ&d=Pico-Macom-UVSJ-UHF-VHF-Band-SeparatorCombiner-for-Antenna-(UVSJ)&c=Signal%20Combiners&sku=UVSJ) mounted on the mast. To join the 2 U4000 antennas, I use a balun on both joined with a section of RG6.

Wow, many suggestions. Well I ordered the winegard 7696p, $92.50 delivered. I'm only a little worried about weight and wind resistance. 3 years ago the original antenna, a gift from a friend, broke due to ice build up. The antenna I presently have I'm sure is a Channelmaster. I don't remember the model. It has four bow-ties equaly spaced on approximately 36 inch square wire mesh reflector. It has had ice on it and withstood heavy winds last year without fail. Is there any secret to keeping the ice of the yagi models?

I wouldn't be overly concerned with ice buildup on a 7-69 antenna. The shorter elements are much less prone to ice damage than a full band channel 2-69 antenna. The wind resistance is fairly low with this model also.

Trying to re-fold those Winegard HD models is where I have encountered the most damage. Once snapped into place, the elements are difficult to re-fold.

I apologize, I was thinking at some point, that the V-III Amp was overdriving, and it wouldn't be used.
Then, the Dual setup of the V5 and a UHF Antenna (now presumed to be a 4221) both directed to 45° Azimuth. (with the SD-3700)

That not withstanding, are we not duplicating the UHF here, with the 7696 and 4221, or will they will be pointed in different directions.
The 4221 toward the CW station at 214°, and the 7696 to 45°? Will the V-III let the UHF of the 7696 through if it's on the VHF side ?

You sure that V-III shouldn't go completely, or, be replaced by a single in/out Amp with a Combiner ahead of it ?

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

styxfix, It sounds bizarre that channel 11 is the actual 28-1, which is the channel we watched prior to installing the preamp? Anyway the winegard 7696p is on the way. I'll be installing it sometime next week. I'll keep all posted.

Houston, I intend to use only the 7696p with the Blonder tongue amp which has two 300 ohm inputs with 1 single coax out. The antenna mast is to fragile to hold up two antennas in heavy wind. BTW is there a solution to the icing of the antenna elements during winter rain conditions?

acamus,

Ok, I think that's a wise choice. The 7696 will do everything that the CM will anyway.
But, you should try it just by it's self first, see how that works, and add the Amp IF it's needed (it probably will be) but try the Antenna alone first.

When/IF you need the Amp, how had you thought to hook it up (the Antenna Input). Run a Twin Lead to the UHF and VHF connectors (2 300 ohm wires) ?
Or maybe just a jumper from one to the other ?

I don't know of any specific way to handle the Icing problem, let me look around.

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

Houston,
You assume correctly, two 300 ohm wires from the antenna connections to the preamp, then a single coax to the power supply. Other than saving power, is there a reason you wish to use the 7696 by itself?

Acamus, are you aware that the 7696 is a 75 ohm antenna?

NSAA,

I can not come up with a good enough Pic of the...
Winegard HD7696P (http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=03&p=HD7696P&d=Winegard-HD-7696P-High-Definition-VHFUHF-HD7696-Series-Antenna-(HD7696P)&c=TV%20Antennas&sku=615798398477)
or in the..
Spec Sheet for the Winegard 7696P (http://winegard.com/kbase/upload/HD7696P.pdf)
to see the Transformer section clearly. In the...
Winegard Series 769 Antennas Installation Manual (http://winegard.com/kbase/upload/1450290.pdf)
on Paragraph 8, it shows the 75 Ohm Cartridge to adapt for Coax, but, it's possible that there may still be connections for 300 Ohm there.

acamus,
To finish the above statement, MOST Antennas have a Balun (matching transformer 300-75 Ohm) which one can electively remove, giving the user an option to use Twin Lead 300 Ohm, or, connecting the Balun, to adapt 75 Ohm Coaxial cable to the Antenna. Your choice to go with 300 Ohm, wold have required you to not use the Balun.
You may have already known this, but so many people read these posts, I've found it helpful, to be basic most times.

You ask, "is there a reason you wish to use the 7696 by itself?"
Yes, I can't help but think about the possible Overdriving issue !
It would be a simple "trial", to use the Balun and a Inline Connector (coupling) to bypass the Amp, and see if the 7696 wold provide adequate viewing on it's own.
It is a higher gain and more directional Antenna than the 4221, and I think you should at least give it a chance, and see what it will do by it's self.

If NSAA's implication is correct, you may not have a choice but to use a coupling like the...
Winegard FS-8100 (http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=FS-8100)
and a short piece of Coax, to reach the Antenna, unless there is sufficient slack in your Downlead, to pull it up to the Antenna directly.
I've linked this for the Pic only, the item shown is a Bag of 6, and you would only need one of them, which you may have already, or buy locally.

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

Houston,
Your point is well made. I do have several coax to coax adapters on the shelf. I can't help but think your suggestion of use without preamp first is a good recommendation. Fewer parts, less noise. Sure I'll try it first. It will be some extra work but it could prove to be worth it. I'll keep you posted.

I have been offline for a couple of days, so forgive me if this has already been mentioned as I just skimmed over the posts I've missed.

The only issue I see using the existing V-III pre-amp with the 7696 antenna, is that the V-III was designed for 2 seperate antennas. That is the reason for the two independant inputs. The 7696 only has 1 connection point, be it 75ohm or 300ohm. So you will still need to jumper the UHF to the VHF.

Splicer,
I'm going to go with Houstons suggestion. Without the preamp first. I'll adapt with connectors later if necessary.

Splicer,

Yes, we picked up on your first post about this. It was a good point to make !
I've been retired for just about 10 years now, and I've installed several of the Winegard 796 Series, but, I just can't remember if one can optionally select 75 or 300.
I haven't even considered the use of 300 Ohm since the mid 1980's. :eek:

When one starts a Tread like this, it's hard to know just how much he knows already.
Apparently acamus has done his homework, has some parts, and realizes the value of the KISS principal to TV Antenna Installations. :D

acamus,

The only other thing that we haven't mentioned so far is...
Your chart is repleat with "2 Edge" stations. Usually, the only way to get those closer to LOS (Line of Sight) is to increase the height of the Antenna.
You're already at 50' or so, any chance you can increase that ?

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

Houston, the output type of the antenna really isn't the concern here with what I am talking about. If he wants to keep the 7 added channels (and really, why wouldn't he ;) ) he needs the pre-amp, which combines a balun and a UVSJ into 1 package. Keeping the connection points to a minimum without unneccessary adapters and added connections to possibly fail during the most inopportune times. I am trying to keep acamus to the KISS principle, which is why I am saying these things in my posts. :)

acamus, thats fine. The only thing is, I have to wonder, why? Not that there is anything wrong with houstons suggestion, it's just that you already know that without the pre-amp and your existing antenna, you get CH28. With the pre-amp, you gained 7 more stations but lost CH28. And we know why you lost CH28 because CH28 is VHF 11. And you said how difficult and time consuming taking the mast down is. So, if you don't care about the 7 additional channels, and just want CH28, then you don't need a $90 antenna or the amp. Save yourself some money and return the new antenna (and the amp if possible) and be done with it.

But if you do want the added 7 channels, as well as CH28, then all you need to do is jumper the UHF & VHF inputs, from the antenna you already have. So far I really don't see the need for the new antenna.

Splicer,

All your points are well made, and I ALWAYS read your posts carefully, as I highly recommend that acamus should also !!!

One thing though...
IF acamus has a CM 4221 (which I think he has), it is not rated for VHF. Wouldn't it be a good idea to go ahead and get the 7696 ?
Having the VHF ability should include the Ch 11/28.1.

Yes, I have suggested trying not using the amp, but seriously, I do think one is going to be necessary to pull the other stations in, as do you.
I just don't think that going with that Blonder is the best way to go.
It's complicating things, has a quite high noise level, as I finally found in the...
Blonder-Tongue Pre-Amps Spec. Sheet (http://www.blondertongue.com/reception/galaxy.pdf)
and after seeing that, I'd offer the...
Winegard HDP269 (http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=ANWHDP269)
as a better choice, 75 Ohm in and out, a little less gain, but with much lower noise.
Your thoughts ?

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

acamus already has an antenna that appears to do everything he desires, so I just don't see the need for a massive, wind sock like the 7696 in his situation. A $30 5-element VHF antenna will put alot less stress on the mast/guy wires, even with the CM he already is using, and the stress is what seems to be of concern. I am in complete agreement that if a combo antenna is to be used, the wrong pre-amp is being used. But it is the correct unit for seperate (more accurate and stable) antennas.

Again, trying to adhere to the KISS principle, I am working with what he has vs. getting him to spend money on something not needed, so the suggestion to jumper the UHF and VHF inputs. There is the chance that may not work, but I think it is a small enough chance to risk attempting it, before unpacking and setting up an antenna. Now if his existing antenna needs to be replaced anyway, this is all moot. But I don't recall him saying the existing antenna as needing replacement.

Now for the choice in pre-amps. Yes, a single 75ohm input is the ideal method (as far as I am concerned) to be able to stick to the KISS principle. However, I myself am not to crazy with mast mounted equipment. Personally, on my antenna system, I mast mounted a UVSJ passive. But I mounted my pre-amp (the NexxTech in my signature) in the house, behind the component rack. Should there be a failure, it is very easy to get to and correct, instead of getting on the roof in the wind, rain, sleet, snow or ice, which is when things usually go wrong, always at the most in-opertune time.;) While there is nothing wrong with the mast mount units, beyond my paranoia (I was in the CATV business for over 27 years and I was called out on many a-night for repairs in the air that could have been on the ground, but thats another topic for another time), what you suggested Houston is a good pre-amp with a good track record.

Splicer,
I have the mast which is 30 feet of 1 1/2 rigid conduit attached to a 45 foot pine tree . At the point of contact I have a heavy hinge arrangement which allows me to lower the mast with a pulley. I however must climb up to about 4o feet to the safety latch I have installed to prevent the mast from falling if one of the guy wires breaks. At 62 my wife gets cranky when I do something a bit dangerous. Our town is at an elevation of 1100 feet approximately. And as I mentioned b-4, we had channel 28 before I installed the preamp. Of course if it wasn't for the loss of CH 28 and "Days of Our Lives" fan living here I wouldn't be doing any of this>>>>>>>

I would LUV to see a picture of that acamus. :)

acamus,

Wow, I know 62 &+ !
You mentioned you had some difficulty in accessing the Antenna, I see now !
Please excuse us for referring to you in third person so much, but one thing for sure is, that Splicer and I agree on the 7696 being a rather large Antenna.
If you remember, I refereed to it when suggesting a Rotator for your system, and would have chosen a 7694/5 given, you are just asking it to range out to 30 mi.

Splicer,

Each point you've stated, again is excellent. And I think that we may consider...
That acamus is going to use the 7696, just by it's self at first, then...
At some point, he's going to connect it to the Blonder Amp, and see how that works.

Now...
I noticed some "hesitation" from you on how it (the single 7696) would be connected, assuming that the 300 Ohm can be accessed. And ask...

1) Do you think there may be a Polarity problem between the VHF and UHF, where one may have to twist the Twin Lead to attach/bridge the two ?
&
2) Do you think there may be an Impedance issue, where he may need to use a 300 ohm Resistor across the VHF, having connected the Antenna to the UHF ?

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

PS: YES, I agree with Splicer, take some Picks of it for us !!!

I'm in the doghouse already and if I keep spending money on all these suggestions and don't get Days of Our Lives I'll be heading for divorce court. You guys will probably like a picture of that too.......

Houston,

1] No

2] No

Acamus, quit spending money brother. But one question. Isn't at least one of the added 7 channels you now get, the same network (what network shows that soap, CBS?) that she could watch instead of 28, at least in the interim?

I wonder if the OP's problem is similar to mine in the WNEP thread. At only around 30 miles outside the NYC DMA, WPIX from NYC might be interferring with the WBRE signal.

I say this even though I don't see WPIX on the TV Fool list using just the zip code 18248 supplied by the OP.

TV Fool ain't perfect. It doesn't even show that WNEP real is moving to channel 50 on Dec 5th. On the pending list it still shows as 49.

I am a little leery about splitting the output from the new antenna, inserting it into two lugs of the pre-amp and then getting the signal back out.

Won't splitting the antenna output change the output resistance and be detrimental to performance.

With a dual input pre-amp, you need two DIFFERENT antennas, one VHF and one UHF.

I would first try leaving your current UHF antenna up and putting the new one 4-5 ft below it and running seperate lines to the pre-amp' UHF and VHF inputs, this is the best solution.

The UHF section of the new antenna is probably not as good as the UHF antenna by itself, and certainly the UHF antennas VHF characteristics are much poorer that those of the new antenna.

I am a little leery about splitting the output from the new antenna, inserting it into two lugs of the pre-amp and then getting the signal back out.

Won't splitting the antenna output change the output resistance and be detrimental to performance.

Huh? I don't think anyone here is advocating the splitting of the output.
With a dual input pre-amp, you need two DIFFERENT antennas, one VHF and one UHF.Which is what I am trying to convince acamus of.
I would first try leaving your current UHF antenna up and putting the new one 4-5 ft below it and running seperate lines to the pre-amp' UHF and VHF inputs, this is the best solution.

The UHF section of the new antenna is probably not as good as the UHF antenna by itself, and certainly the UHF antennas VHF characteristics are much poorer that those of the new antenna.Yes, I am trying to save the man some money and get a dedicated VHF antenna instead of the combo. But jumpering the inputs could eliminate the need for an additional antenna. There is a strong enough chance that it will that it is worth trying.

He was talking about putting up a Winegard 7696 and connecting 2 300 ohm taps off the 7696 to both the UHF and VHF lugs on the pre-amp or jumpering from the UHF to VHF - that is not a good way to connect that antenna to that pre-amp.

As a matter of fact that antenna is not functionally compatible with that pre-amp.

Jim5506,

You said, "that antenna is not functionally compatible with that pre-amp".
I'm inclined to agree with you, but, why do you say that, other than the obvious 300/75 Ohm difference.

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.

Has it been established yet about the connection type? If the connection is 75ohm, can it be removed for 300ohm use? I guess in a worse case scenario, a balun can be installed in reverse to connect to the pre-amp.



He was talking about putting up a Winegard 7696 and connecting 2 300 ohm taps off the 7696 to both the UHF and VHF lugs on the pre-amp or jumpering from the UHF to VHF - that is not a good way to connect that antenna to that pre-amp.

I guess I missed that as I don't recall that being said, nor do I feel like going thru all the posts to find it. ;) But as for the jumpering the VHF & UHF inputs, that was my suggestion, and I agree it is not the ideal method, but in the KISS priciple it is the best with what he has. And on that note, the way I have joined my antennas is highly regarded as the wrong way to do things, but it works, and works well in the situation I using it now.

It is certainly possible that jumpering will not help, but I'm willing to wager that it will be more of a help than a hindrance.

The antenna has a single output that carries both UHF and VHF signals, whereas the pre-amp needs seperate UHF and VHF 300 ohm inputs. The conversion 75-300 ohm can be handles with some loss with a balun, but how do you split the combined UHF/VHF signal to seperate components without some sort of chicanery.

You have splitting on the brain Jim. As I said a few times already, and this will be the last time, a short jumper is all that should be required.

As for the 'loss' of the balun, the pre-amp will (should) make up for it nicely.

45052

45053Good Day Houston & Splicer,
I had some success today. The Winegard 7696P arrived yesterday and I couldn't wait to get off work to get on that project. I feel like a kid at Christmas. So anyway, I tried the antenna without the Blonder Tongue preamp, reception was poor, only 4 UHF channels and 0 VHF. So I called a local electronics store to ask about an amp which has a single coax input and a single coax out, to accomodate my new antenna which has only a single coax antenna connection. Even though it is a combo UHF/VHF antenna. Well they didn't reconize my voice and tried to sell me a Blonder Tongue, haha. Anyway, I decided to experiment. First I jumpered the 300 ohm UHF/VHF connections on the Blonder inputs in parellel then attached the 300 ohm to coax adapter. Next I attached a short coax from the adapter to the antenna out male connector. It looks like the Tunerville Trolley but the bugger worked. I stood the mast back up, with the help of my amxiously waiting wife-Days of Our Lives-is coming on at 1 pm. After a few moments of scanning by the Samsung tuner we have TV again. This time we have 20 channels. There is a channel 12-1,12-2 in addition to 28 which is clear as this here empty beer glass. So Mama bear is happy once again and Papa bear didn't have to spend any more cash. Thanks for all the input guys! I'm sending along the pics you asked about. They were taken with an inexpensive digital at a distance so I could give you an idea of scale. There is a before, with the Channelmaster chicken fence type, then the Winegard arrow type. Let me know if you were able to view them. Be well.

:D Congratulations! Glad the suggestions worked out for you. And thanks for the pictures. Excellent for seeing what we were dealing with.:up

acamus,

I second the congratulations ! :D
I'm very happy to hear of your good results.
Unfortunately, my DialUp didn't let me open the pictures, but, I've good a good imagination.

Have a good Day ! :)
S.W.