what switch(es) would i need to use with a subbed receiver and 3 seperate dishes using 3 non-dish LNBs?

Need a little more info? What kind of LNB's? What receiver model? What kind of dishes?

A legacy SW64 would probably work, but it's hard to say without more detail on those LNBs.

vip222k
invacom quad polar or eagle aspen LNBs
a dish is a dish i guess. . .but not to waste time they are of the channel master brand.

Ok i think i got it. . .

Here is the setup: 3 dishes, one pointer at each location (61.5, 110, 119).
Each dish with one of these DPP dual LNBFs. XXX.cgi.ebay.com/DishPro-Dual-LNB-LNBF-DP-Bell-ExpressVU-Dish-Network-/160555232855?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2561d66e57
One cable from each LNBF run into a DP34 Switch
Sat 1 and Sat 2 out into the ViP222k inputs.

i guess what had me was i was thinking i needed to send 2 cables from each LNBF to the switch.

does this sound correct?

Ok i think i got it. . .

Here is the setup: 3 dishes, one pointer at each location (61.5, 110, 119). ...
And you do realize that you will not be able to receive all of the programming available to your programming package with these three sats?

With DishPro LNBs (not legacy!) you only need one cable per orbital location going to the switch. DP34 will work, though you have to run one cable per tuner as you mentioned. For Dish dual receivers, I would recommend a DPP33 instead, which only need one cable per receiver.

DO NOT confuse DPP with DP.

Any particular reason you can't be happy with a single conventional dish?

You can save yourself a long cable run if you go with a DPP setup. Even with two tuners worth of satellite on the cable, there is still room for OTA or a backfeed.

And you do realize that you will not be able to receive all of the programming available to your programming package with these three sats?


thanks for the reply, can you please explain this as to what i will be missing?
this is how i thought it worked. . .WA uses 110,119,129. . .129 is HD so i figured with it or without it i should get be gettin everything and the same should go for the EA when all is normal.

With DishPro LNBs (not legacy!) you only need one cable per orbital location going to the switch. DP34 will work, though you have to run one cable per tuner as you mentioned. For Dish dual receivers, I would recommend a DPP33 instead, which only need one cable per receiver.

wont the DPP seperators work with the DP34?
havin minimal cable to run would have been nice, but i have the calbe already run from my BUDs so thats what im gonna use. . .4 rg6 cables ran into the house lol

DO NOT confuse DPP with DP.

Any particular reason you can't be happy with a single conventional dish?

You can save yourself a long cable run if you go with a DPP setup. Even with two tuners worth of satellite on the cable, there is still room for OTA or a backfeed.


can you explain your bit about the DP and DPP?

they are never to be mixed i read some where.

wont the DPP seperators work with the DP34? No they will not! That is why I suggested a DPP33 might work better for you, since it was designed to work with separators and feed up to 3 dual-tuner receivers. The DP34 can feed 4 tuners, but the separator cannot be used so two outputs of a DP34 and 2 cables would be needed for a dual tuner such as your 222.

DP = bandstacked
DPP = bandstacked with a wrinkle

The wrinkle is that a DPP switch can feed any polarization from any DP LNB on it's inputs to either or both DP bands on any of it's outputs.

WA uses 110,119,129. . .129 is HD so i figured with it or without it i should get be gettin everything and the same should go for the EA when all is normal.Your OP said you had 61.5W, 110W and 119W. That's neither EA nor WA. 61.5W doesn't have all of the national HD that it used to so that kind of hybrid setup won't yield all the channels.

If you want EA, use an EA dish. If you want WA, use a WA dish. Any other combination is probably going to require a fourth slot.

I have a feeling the OP may not be here in the US. He is talking about setting these up on BUD's.

Your OP said you had 61.5W, 110W and 119W. That's neither EA nor WA. 61.5W doesn't have all of the national HD that it used to so that kind of hybrid setup won't yield all the channels.

If you want EA, use an EA dish. If you want WA, use a WA dish. Any other combination is probably going to require a fourth slot.

lets forget about the HD for a bit. . .if a person only has 110 and 119 (locals are on one of those sats) what would they be missing from there package if they have the everything pack for argument sake?

I have a feeling the OP may not be here in the US. He is talking about setting these up on BUD's.

not settin up on any BUDS, i mension my BUDs to show i already have a heap of cable runnin into the house so that will be used. . .i also mension channel master dishes ;)

thanks for the reply, can you please explain this as to what i will be missing?
this is how i thought it worked. . .WA uses 110,119,129. . .129 is HD so i figured with it or without it i should get be gettin everything and the same should go for the EA when all is normal.

You said, "Here is the setup: 3 dishes, one pointer at each location (61.5, 110, 119)."

Is it 61.5 or 129? With 110, 119, and 61.5 there are lots of channels you'll be missing.

You said, "Here is the setup: 3 dishes, one pointer at each location (61.5, 110, 119)."

Is it 61.5 or 129? With 110, 119, and 61.5 there are lots of channels you'll be missing.


and im askin now what channels will be missing if they have one dish 500 only at 110/119? takin into account a person who is not interested in any HD channels.

thanks

lets forget about the HD for a bit. . .if a person only has 110 and 119 (locals are on one of those sats) what would they be missing from there package if they have the everything pack for argument sake?A Dish 500 pointed at 110W will get you all English language SD programming (unless you're in AK, HI or PR). Note that not all locals are on 110W or 119W. If you're trying to say that the ones you want are and you're within the spot beam, then good for you.

A Dish 500 pointed at 110W will get you all English language SD programming (unless you're in AK, HI or PR). Note that not all locals are on 110W or 119W. If you're trying to say that the ones you want are and you're within the spot beam, then good for you.

my locals are on 119. . .so then its safe to say im getting my FULL package?

IFF (if and only if) you subscribe to an English language basic package and you're in the 119W spot beam cone that your locals are on. Line-of-sight is assumed.

In that situation, a DISH500 with a DPP Twin is highly recommended.

Adding HD programming to the mix may change what you need significantly.