Thread: Need Docs for Ajak mount

I looked in the document section and printed out the file I found there. But what I have seems a little different (but not much). Also it doesn't explain well what all the holes are for in the mounting ring and setting dec etc. It does say that it is settable between 150° and 180° but I can't find a way to do it. The only paper I have was stuck to the motor....

The declination is done the same as any polar mount

There appears to be coarse adjustment at the north end and fine tuning at the south. I was just hoping there was some paper that described which hole is for what range

I'm not sure I understand you, but mine has the declination adjustment on the south end, while the north end has no adjustment for declination.
But, on the north end there is an adjustment for the elevation. And that adjustment is not the declination, but it could effect the declination?
Hope this helps!

In this picture you can see on the cross member a series of holes and I figured those were for coarse adjustment, while the vertical tab is where the threaded adjuster hooks up. I haven't got a real good chance to look at it on the bench to try to figure it out. Also need the directions for which wire goes where. I can tell that the heavier wires are for the motor.

Greg, sorry but my ring don't look like that one. In the center there are support arms in the basic shape of the letter H that are welded flat across the inside of the ring. Those four brackets on top look the same, the reflector (the dish) will bolt up to them. The one bracket at the top pointing down looks like one of mine (mine has two brackets pointing down), the one on my north bolts up to the polar bar in a fixed position, the one on my south has a long slot (for the declination adjustment) in it, and it bolts to the polar bar through the slot. Mine don't have that shaped bar welded across it, like in your picture. Maybe someone else can help with that? I'm referencing my Unimesh dish. I guess yours is that Perfect 10...?
I'll let someone else tell you how to hook up the wiring, but I think you'll only need two of those three possible connections? Of the other wires, you've already figured out the power wires.

The big green wire is chassis ground

I took the stand alone actuator down to the shop and started messin with that mount. It looks like I got to it just in the nick of time. The motor works fine and the pulse counter is fine. But as I ran it from H to H I could hear it straining in spots. What to do? I know.

Take it apart!

Instead of using a brass or bronze bearing they used a sleeve of some kind of plastic to act as a bearing. It is very brittle now. I had to take the nut off the bottom side and using the Egyptian Method basically press the shaft out of the tube. Rust had started on the lower side of the shaft but is fixable. If there was a thrust washer of some kind it is gone and it's metal on metal. The zerk fitting was rusted solid.

I have a little work to do.

It's soaking in solvent tonight.

That's what happens in western Washington

Originally Posted by Greg Mueller

There appears to be coarse adjustment at the north end and fine tuning at the south. I was just hoping there was some paper that described which hole is for what range

I was going to get an Ajax 180 back in the day. One thing I remember about them was the declination was adjustable in steps (separate holes), that would be your course adjustment. The fine adjustment was the elevation. Thats what I remember from 1989.

Originally Posted by Greg Mueller

In this picture you can see on the cross member a series of holes and I figured those were for coarse adjustment, while the vertical tab is where the threaded adjuster hooks up. I haven't got a real good chance to look at it on the bench to try to figure it out. Also need the directions for which wire goes where. I can tell that the heavier wires are for the motor.

I would guess Red & White are M1 & M2. Blues are sensor green is ground.