Free scrap ?? Not to me

**Corrado** · 11-02-2009 12:48 PM

You never know what you'll find along the road. The other night I spotted a small cardboard sign that said "free scrap". The actuator motor caught my eye. As I was slowed down to see what it was I was shocked to see a rusty Kaul-Tronics polar mount for a Bud.

Excuse the dark photo, I left it in the truck to take to work to get it apart for cleaning for future use. This thing is ridiculously heavy.

**1ADAM12** · 11-02-2009 01:01 PM

Nice find, great that you saved it from the scrap man.

I saw posted a method of rust removal that was easy.

submerge the parts in a baking soda and water solution attach one electrode of a welder to the steel and submerge a SS plate and attach the other electrode. Should only draw an amp or two.

Never tried it but it leaves a bright steel ready to prime and paint.

**Cadsulfide** · 11-02-2009 09:09 PM

Nice find, and as we all know, parts is parts. It could me modded to drive a 4' DTN dish for a killer Ku rig.

**Anole** · 11-02-2009 11:23 PM

I'd use a wire wheel or cup to whisk away what rust that's not tied down.
Then, you give a couple of coats of rust-bonding primer (or there's paint you can use directly).
Be sure to follow the directions with enough coats and time between coats.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-s...ml#post1764717 (AMCI perf on AJAK motor:)

**amc1** · 11-03-2009 06:19 PM

never know what you would find.i got a c-band dish some time ago its white and all fiberglass works well.

**FED-UP-INSTALLER** · 11-04-2009 08:49 AM

soak in vinager or mixed up oxacilic acid (deck cleaner) DANGEROUS!

**Inno** · 11-04-2009 09:16 AM

Electrolysis.........that will remove all of the rust safely and in a less damaging way than a wire wheel or dangerous chemicals. I have not tried it yet but I plan to set it up sometime over the winter.

Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic

**Anole** · 11-04-2009 10:55 AM

I read about the electrolysis method
several years ago

.
The fellows were removing rust from old gas pumps and similar collectibles.
I came away with a negative impression, and that it was quite dangerous.
However, if members here have any war stories, I'd be anxious to hear. -

The wire wheel method need only remove loose rust.
There is no need to try to get it all off.
The primer forms a chemical bond with the remaining bits, providing a strong under-layer for paint.

primer -
Rust Destroyer

- over which you might use any top coat.
paint -
Hammerite

- primer and top coat in one.

I don't have 20 years history with these paints and primers, but I did buy into their hype.
We'll see if they outlive me. -

**14karat** · 11-04-2009 03:30 PM

Hey Anole - I think I posted before about the stuff, but I've used a DuPont product called Extend that is similar to the Rust Destroyer you posted about.
I can only say from my personal experience using it on several things (including the back fender wells of a '63 Ford Galaxie) - the crap works. I didn't believe it until I used it.
That being said, DuPont is actually somewhat of a competitor of the company I work for, so I gain nothing by posting this...

**Inno** · 11-04-2009 03:44 PM

Originally Posted by Anole

I read about the electrolysis method
several years ago

.
The fellows were removing rust from old gas pumps and similar collectibles.
I came away with a negative impression, and that it was quite dangerous.
However, if members here have any war stories, I'd be anxious to hear. -

The wire wheel method need only remove loose rust.
There is no need to try to get it all off.
The primer forms a chemical bond with the remaining bits, providing a strong under-layer for paint.

primer -
Rust Destroyer

- over which you might use any top coat.
paint -
Hammerite

- primer and top coat in one.

I don't have 20 years history with these paints and primers, but I did buy into their hype.
We'll see if they outlive me. -

Maybe it was from here that I initially heard about it. The info from the gas pump restoration site is no longer there but I have found other references to the process. EDIT: it is there and it seems to be updated. Thanks for the link, I've been looking for it!
I was under the impression that it was relatively safe if you made sure to follow a few simple guidelines. One of which being ventilation as one of the byproducts is hydrogen, but only in small amounts. Another one being the choice of metal to use as a sacrificial anode, stainless steel would last the longest but it gave off some sort of toxic gas. Other than those two things the solution is merely water with washing soda (or baking soda) added so it is safe. It is also usable indefinitely and only limited by the crud which will eventually form at the bottom of your tank as rust deposits fall from your workpiece.
I plan on trying it soon so I will report my findings when I do.