old birdview

**1beertap** · 03-18-2010 08:09 PM

Can I use a DMX741 on my birdview? If so, do I use the scalar that comes with the DMX741? Or do I have to modify the existing scalar plate?

**phlatwound** · 03-19-2010 10:48 PM

Originally Posted by 1beertap

Can I use a DMX741 on my birdview? If so, do I use the scalar that comes with the DMX741? Or do I have to modify the existing scalar plate?

Yes you can use a DMX741. I suppose it would be possible to adapt the DMX scalar but all the conversions I have seen done here have been accomplished using the BV scalar.

I had to slightly increase the opening size in my BV scalar to make a SatAv C2 LNBF fit, I think the O.D. of the DMX is similar.

This thread shows how I went about that task in my hillbilly machine shop.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-s...w-install.html (Phlat's Birdview Install)

**Lone Cloud** · 03-20-2010 12:44 AM

I have to say that I would not take the BV scalar off. I have heard any number of times now how the struts broke.

I didn't want that to happen to me, so I got a good hole saw of the same diameter as the hole you need for the new lnb. Drill a hole with it in like a piece of 1 x 4 C-clamp it on the
bv scalar, dead center. That way the 1 x 4 can act as a guide for the hole saw. use plenty of oil, aim straight, go slow.

I think this is a better method so as to avoid the hassle of broken struts

**Anole** · 03-20-2010 01:39 AM

Originally Posted by Lone Cloud

I have to say that I would not take the BV scalar off.
...use plenty of oil, aim straight, go slow.
I think this is a better method so as to avoid the hassle of broken struts

Yes, absolutely! GO SLOW!
The drill-to-surface speed is very high on a large diameter hole saw.
Run the drill as slow as possible, and take your time.

I had a bear of a time making discs with a hole saw, for use as a magnet wheel.
A lathe worked much better. Too bad we can't put the scalar in a lathe.

... and ... nobody wants a broken strut! -

**stogie5150** · 03-20-2010 07:59 AM

Originally Posted by Anole

Yes, absolutely! GO SLOW!
The drill-to-surface speed is very high on a large diameter hole saw.
Run the drill as slow as possible, and take your time.

I had a bear of a time making discs with a hole saw, for use as a magnet wheel.
A lathe worked much better. Too bad we can't put the scalar in a lathe.

... and ... nobody wants a broken strut! -

Hey take it from me, broken struts are character builders! ( I broke 4)

Originally Posted by 1beertap

Can I use a DMX741 on my birdview? If so, do I use the scalar that comes with the DMX741? Or do I have to modify the existing scalar plate?

I would measure what I have, and what you want to put in the scalar. I do not know what the DMX741 measures, but measure both, and hog out the hole as necessary. Everyone has a favorite method, I didn't have to do mine as a member here hooked me up with one that was already done. However, if I had to do it, I believe that I would take it off the dish. Broken struts be damned. But from the other threads, It clearly can be done on the dish.

Good luck and let us know how you do.

**1beertap** · 03-20-2010 07:05 PM

Again, thanks for the information. I'm sure I'll have more questions to come. As of now, I'm waiting for the magnets to be used for the sensor wheel. I've poured concrete and plumbed the pole. The pole is ready for the h2h mount to be installed. I still need to fix a couple of broken threaded inserts in the dish bowl and of course, enlarge hole on the scalar.

**stogie5150** · 03-20-2010 08:18 PM

Originally Posted by 1beertap

Again, thanks for the information. I'm sure I'll have more questions to come. As of now, I'm waiting for the magnets to be used for the sensor wheel. I've poured concrete and plumbed the pole. The pole is ready for the h2h mount to be installed. I still need to fix a couple of broken threaded inserts in the dish bowl and of course, enlarge hole on the scalar.

How many inserts are bad? If its just a couple just skip them. I have three bad on my Birdview and its fine. And remember, when you mount the dish, don't be a gorilla tightening the bolts. Just snug them up good. The dish isn't doing anywhere, there isn't any pressure on it, very minimal vibration too.

Looking back at my thread...I have TWO that are broken/missing. No big deal. Her eis a link to the series of posts that detail what to do if you break a strut, and if you want to see how I did the declination.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-s...nstall-13.html (stogie5150's Birdview install)

**1beertap** · 03-25-2010 09:05 PM

I made a 3" sensor wheel with 24 magnets. First, I took a 3 1/4" hole-saw and made a disk, but the hole-saw didn't make an exact 3 1/4" disk, so I decided to make my own pattern to fit a 3" disk. Now, I used a CAD program to create a template and printed it. Then, I cut the pattern out and glued it to the disk and drilled out all 24 holes slightly smaller than 1/4". When the magnets finally came in the mail, I took them home and pressed them in. Originally, The disk was drilled out to be installed between the motor and transmission with a 1/2" hole, but I decided to install it to the end of the worm gear (just like the original potentiometer). I went to a local hardware store and purchased a 1/2" nylon bushing with an 8/32" center, a box of 8/32" screws and a matching tap. Next, I removed roll pin out of worm gear and drilled out for use of the 8/32" tap. I ran the tap in and made threads needed for screw. My bushing needed to be installed into the center of the disk, so I took J-B Weld and mixed a little batch and attached the nylon bushing and let cure over night. Next, I took the original mounting bracket used for the pot and recycled it for the new sensor. Lastly, I just finished installing sensor wheel and tested with an oscilloscope for function. My digital ohm meter wasn't fast enough to catch the oscillations of the sensor. Hopefully, the Gbox will be fast enough. Yes, the sensor worked on and off. Yeah!!!

**Anole** · 03-25-2010 09:50 PM

Yes, the Gbox is very fast.

And do post some pictures of your solution.
We all love 'n learn by the efforts of others. -

**Lone Cloud** · 03-26-2010 05:04 PM

Originally Posted by 1beertap

I made a 3" sensor wheel with 24 magnets. First, I took a 3 1/4" hole-saw and made a disk, but the hole-saw didn't make an exact 3 1/4" disk, so I decided to make my own pattern to fit a 3" disk. Now, I used a CAD program to create a template and printed it. Then, I cut the pattern out and glued it to the disk and drilled out all 24 holes slightly smaller than 1/4". When the magnets finally came in the mail, I took them home and pressed them in. Originally, The disk was drilled out to be installed between the motor and transmission with a 1/2" hole, but I decided to install it to the end of the worm gear (just like the original potentiometer). I went to a local hardware store and purchased a 1/2" nylon bushing with an 8/32" center, a box of 8/32" screws and a matching tap. Next, I removed roll pin out of worm gear and drilled out for use of the 8/32" tap. I ran the tap in and made threads needed for screw. My bushing needed to be installed into the center of the disk, so I took J-B Weld and mixed a little batch and attached the nylon bushing and let cure over night. Next, I took the original mounting bracket used for the pot and recycled it for the new sensor. Lastly, I just finished installing sensor wheel and tested with an oscilloscope for function. My digital ohm meter wasn't fast enough to catch the oscillations of the sensor. Hopefully, the Gbox will be fast enough. Yes, the sensor worked on and off. Yeah!!!

How I wish I'd had that CAD program when I was doing my magnet wheel! I cut my wheel with a hole saw out of a 4" black pvc end cap. Clamped it to the table of my small drill press. drilled it slowly. Came out pretty round. But then it took me an entire weekend to find the 24 positions, using a square and a caliper.

I used the pvc because it is thicker and can take a punch mark for the magnet holes without cracking. I had to get it so the caliper could go all the way around the wheel and hit each punch mark for the magnet holes. Took me a whole weekend to complete the process.

Just a thought on what worked for me in installing the magnets. After the 24 holes were drilled, (good idea to make the holes snug) I got a piece of wax paper and put it on a piece of flat steel. I put the wheel on top of the wax paper. Then it was relatively easy to alternate the magnet polarities and put them in the holes, since the magnets were immediately drawn against the wax paper and steel plate. Once I got all the magnets in, I made sure the pvc wheel was snug against the steel and the magnets flush with the surface. Put a few drops of Krazy glue in each magnet hole and let it dry completely. The wax paper allowed me to get the wheel up when the process was done. It wasn't hard to detach the paper.