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  1. #11
    cfb
    cfb is offline SatelliteGuys Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildbill129 View Post
    Some suggestions:

    Make sure you put it in below the frost line. You can flatten the end to stop it from spinning, but I like to drill two (one on each side) horizontal holes and put in a short piece of rebar. It keeps the pole from spinning and lifting out.

    Don't forget the conduit while you have that hole open!
    All very, very good advice. A couple of long bolts do just as well as the rebar, and if you have some scraps of old galvanized wire fence stick those in the hole too before pouring the concrete in. Sometimes after 5-10 years of wind thrum the post will crack the whole concrete base and while the pole wont spin, it might rock. The bits of wire fence help keep that from happening. A full rebar mesh is best, but thats more than most folks are going to do on a post pour.

    Heres something I was thinking about that perhaps might also be a good idea...thoughts from the real installers would be appreciated.

    While you have a 3.5-4' hole dug in the ground, wouldnt it be a nice idea to drive a 3-4' grounding rod in and attach a thick insulated lead up the pole before pouring the concrete? Then the dish and grounding block could be mounted to that. I know if the pole is put in within a certain number of feet of the house ground (check your local code) the inspector will want the ground run to the house ground proper. But I'm figuring many folks putting in a post are going to have it far enough from the house to warrant a safe grounding of its own.

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  3. #12
    DirectDishNet's Avatar
    DirectDishNet is offline SatelliteGuys Junkie
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    Don't forget #8 on my list, Thats the most important one in my book.

  4. #13
    Bosco10021's Avatar
    Bosco10021 is offline SatelliteGuys Regular
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    I used a slightly smaller diameter pole. After the install and when everything was complete I did an extra step(because in part I live in a high wind area).

    To prevent the dish from moving out of line, I drilled and threaded (tapped) two holes thru the collar of the dish and into the pole. I then could then bolt the dish securely to the pole not ever to worry about it moving. It works great.

  5. #14
    DirectDishNet's Avatar
    DirectDishNet is offline SatelliteGuys Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bosco10021 View Post
    I used a slightly smaller diameter pole. After the install and when everything was complete I did an extra step(because in part I live in a high wind area).

    To prevent the dish from moving out of line, I drilled and threaded (tapped) two holes thru the collar of the dish and into the pole. I then could then bolt the dish securely to the pole not ever to worry about it moving. It works great.
    WOW!... Did you also Turtle wax the dish?.... lol, Joking......

    I use self tapping screws like about 5-8 of them.....

  6. #15
    ftaisawesome is offline SatelliteGuys Regular
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirectDishNet View Post
    WOW!... Did you also Turtle wax the dish?.... lol, Joking......

    I use self tapping screws like about 5-8 of them.....
    5-8 of them? Did you want to make sure if a tornado came along it not only blew the dish off but, took the whole pole out of the ground with it?

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bosco10021 View Post
    I used a slightly smaller diameter pole. After the install and when everything was complete I did an extra step(because in part I live in a high wind area).

    To prevent the dish from moving out of line, I drilled and threaded (tapped) two holes thru the collar of the dish and into the pole. I then could then bolt the dish securely to the pole not ever to worry about it moving. It works great.
    Quote Originally Posted by DirectDishNet View Post
    WOW!... Did you also Turtle wax the dish?.... lol, Joking......

    I use self tapping screws like about 5-8 of them.....
    Hmmm,
    We went to the same school as far as the self tapping screws.
    My dish hasn't moved since I put it up ..... concrete, bolt in the bottom and self tappers to snug it up, my post came from a local FENCE company, 2" OD, which is slightly less 1 7/8th probably. Aligned correctly and placed self tappers.

    It's been rock solid since '05
    And it's a 16' galvinized post supported at the roof line. (flat roof)
    Let the Urban Era Begin !!!

    2 HR24-500's, 2 HR24-100's, SL3 Dish, SWM Dish, 60" Pioneer Elite, 2 - 42" Pioneer Elite's, Seagate 1.5 TB EHD

  8. #17
    Joe Diamond is offline SatelliteGuys Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by ftaisawesome View Post
    Not sure what you mean by a D mark but, if you're talking about to run the cable in, I'm gonna do one better than that. I'm also going to run two cables to the location with a ground block near the site and rod into the ground as well. I prefer running my own cables into my home. You sound like you are an installer and, you may do a very professional job but, I've also read stories on here about shabby installs. Since I don't know if I would get an swm lnb, I figured I better just run two cables just in case. No big deal if I have an extra. All I'm planning on at least right now is one HD DVR. If I don't change my mind on this whole thing
    D mark = demarcation point....where the utilities enter your building. That is where the electric ground is and where your interior cable & phone lines enter. The ground block for your sat system gets bonded there also.

    Dig the cable trench to the D mark. Run two cables for each DVR & one cable for receivers 2 & 3.

    Joe
    Last edited by Joe Diamond; 10-12-2009 at 04:56 PM. Reason: typos

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