Pole Mount

**directvfreak** · 01-18-2006 03:42 PM

When I get the new AT9 dish installed, i want it mounted on a pole and not drill holes in the house. What size pole do I need and I asuming it needs to be exactally level?

Thanks!

**charper1** · 01-18-2006 04:05 PM

IF the installer agrees to do the pole mount make sure it is sch40 galvanized steel pipe.

I think I read its 2" OD - but I know someone will come in a clarify this point.

Also make 100% sure it is mounted into the ground at least 2.5 feet (or below your frost line) with high-tensile concrete; there are numerous how to sites on the proper method.

Not only does the post need to be level but also plumb.

DO NOT use wood or a fence post. Wood post can twist over the seasons and result in your dish no longer pointing in the correct direction. Fence posts are too thin and can bend easy.

Good luck!

EDIT - added frost line blurb.

**dragon002** · 01-18-2006 05:24 PM

and make sure you angle cut the post or run a bolt thru it to prevent spinning.

**Tom B** · 01-18-2006 05:30 PM

Originally Posted by charper1

IF the installer agrees to do the pole mount make sure it is sch40 galvanized steel pipe. I think I read its 2.5" OD but I know someone will come in a clarify this point. Also make 100% sure it is mounted into the ground at least 2.5 feet with high tensile concrete; there are numerous how to sites on the proper method. Not only does the post need to be level but also plumb.

DO NOT use wood or a fence post. Wood post can twist over the seasons and result in your dish no longer pointing in the correct direction.

Good luck!

"High tensile concrete"??? There is no such thing. In fact, all concrete is fairly weak in tension. That is what rebar is used for. Concrete is only strong in compression. As for the strength to use in this application, just about anything will do. Size is more of a consideration. You should make it big enough to provide adequate weight to resist overturning. As for the depth, you need to get below the frost line to avoid heaving. So, the farther north you are, the deeper you should be.

(Yes, I am a civil engineer

)

**charper1** · 01-18-2006 05:43 PM

OK I guess I should say HIGH-PSI concrete?

I think the typical user knows what is meant here. I mean heck, EVERYTHING has a given tensile strength (the greatest longitudinal stress a substance can bear without tearing apart) so high-tensile concrete would just be the best load bearing version.

Don't buy the cheap crap.

http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/Quikrete5000Mix.html

As for the depth I gave a minimal starting point and said he should go to a proper site to determain what is right for his app. We all know about the frost line, but as you say its different for some and thus he still needs to visit a site or professional to assist his planning.

**agsbill** · 01-18-2006 05:44 PM

I think the pipe needs to be 2 inch outer diameter.

**charper1** · 01-18-2006 05:56 PM

Originally Posted by agsbill

I think the pipe needs to be 2 inch outer diameter.

OK thanks, I will change my post to reflect the 2" OD

**wolfman** · 01-18-2006 06:03 PM

The problem with mounting a pole in concrete is when the ground around the concrete shrinks up due to the lack rain your pole can become loose. If I were doing it I would dig down below the frost line, pour a half bag of Quickcrete ( for your footing) in the hole, get a nice straight treated 6x6, level and plumb the 6x6, and fill the rest of the hole with pea gravel. That way if the ground shrinks the pea gravel will compensate for it and your post will not become loose. I did a 16x24 deck years ago and never had a problem with the posts moving. My posts haven't twisted over the years either.

**charper1** · 01-18-2006 06:10 PM

Originally Posted by wolfman

The problem with mounting a pole in concrete is when the ground around the concrete shrinks up due to the lack rain your pole can become loose.

Thats why you follow the satellite post mount how-to and install a "brace" or counter on or through the pipe. I placed two of them on my BUD install and it is still true 12 years later. Pea gravel is a must to aid in proper drainage.

**agsbill** · 01-18-2006 06:16 PM

NEW! This new dish from DIRECTV encompasses three LNBs to recieve 101°, 110°, 119° degree satellite, plus the new Ka satellite (99°, 103&#176

for local HD programming. Dish requires use of H20 receiver

• To be used to pick up high definition local channel programming from DIRECTV
• Four outputs carrying satellite signal from all Five satellites in the sky
• Heavy duty j-mount with 2" outer diameter mast opening
• Must use H20 satellite receiver to watch local channel HD programming (where available)
• Capable of receiving DIRECTV satellite signals on the Ku band (101°, 110°, 119&#176

and Ka band (99°, 103&#176

• Dish surface area dimensions: 25.5" (h) x 29.5" (W)
• LNB arm with LNBS attached extends 23.5" from the dish surface area
• Weight: 32 lbs (including J-mount mast, dish surface, LNBs, arm and pole attachment)