Which switch can I use?

[smokey982]

I currently have a DP44 switch because I was using 4 satellite locations. But my locals were moved a while back and now I only use 3 satellite locations. So, since I'm only using 3 locations, I would like to change to a switch that does not require power. I'm really getting overloaded on my outlets, so I would like to eliminate the DP44 to free up an outlet. Would a DP34 work for 3 locations? And if so, does it have to be powered?

[Spize]

I currently have a DP44 switch because I was using 4 satellite locations. But my locals were moved a while back and now I only use 3 satellite locations. So, since I'm only using 3 locations, I would like to change to a switch that does not require power. I'm really getting overloaded on my outlets, so I would like to eliminate the DP44 to free up an outlet. Would a DP34 work for 3 locations? And if so, does it have to be powered?

If you have the Dish 1000.2 or 1000.4 (one solid LNB for one dish w/3 locations) I am under the understanding they both have 3 outputs on them and you would not require a switch at all.

[WiCkeDuDe]

You could indeed use a DP34 switch but if any of your receivers are dual tuner models then you will need 2 coax cables to each dual tuner receiver. If you are using single cables with a DPP seperator this will no longer work.

[smokey982]

Actually I have a Dish 1000 (I think) and a separate Dish 300 pointed at 61.5. Some time ago I was unable to receive anything from 129 and I determined my changing around some inputs on my DP44 that one of the inputs quit working. So since my HD locals were coming from 61.5 anyway, I unhooked the 129 input and I only use the 61.5. So is this the same situation you are referring to?

[smokey982]

Actually I have 2 622's and both only have one cable coming to them with a separator. So I guess I have to stay with what I have.

[Iceberg]

yes you would due to having 61.5

[kb2vgp]

There is one option that no one suggested. You can eliminate the DPP 44 switch and go with the DPP 33 switch which accepts three locations and is Dish Pro Plus and you do not need a power inserter with it.

[Spize]

Does your dish look like this...



or like this...



?

If you only have 2 receivers you don't need the switch at all.

Given that your receivers now only have 1 line running into a seperator that means you have DPP at least...

If you have the first dish listed and you don't need the 129 you can just remove the 129 LNB (the single one) and plug your 61.5 feed into the input port of your DPP twin LNB (the double LNB one) instead of the 129 LNB. Then you don't need any switches and should be in business with a check switch.



If you have the second dish it is even easier... just plug the feed from the 61.5 dish into the 4th barrel on the LNB (it is marked LNB input) and you will need no switch and should be in business with a check switch.



I think this is right... Dish gurus?

[kb2vgp]

Hey, I don't know why I didn't think of that! That will work even better, just some minor cabling and some barrels where the switch is and you're in business! Just make sure the barrel connectors are rated for high frequency, we don't want to read later that your system isn't working due to burned out barrels.

[smokey982]

I do have the Dish in the first picture. So your saying remove the 129 LNB completely? As in leave it unattached? And then connect the cable coming from my 61.5 dish into the double LNB? And then eliminate my DP44 switch completely by coupling together my inputs and outputs from the switch? Is this correct?