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Thread: LNB V/H Voltage

  1. #1
    RT-Cat's Avatar
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    LNB V/H Voltage

    ADVERTS 1
    Did a search on this and got a bizzillion answers. So, thought I would just ask. I was thinking of making a power supply for the dead S9 I have from shop4fta. What I was looking for was what the pros think are the "best" voltages for switching the LNB from vertical/horizontal. Also how many amps or part of an amp do you need for most LNB's to work?
    RT. < Cat
    TL. < Me - N8BMH


    WARNING to all: NEVER shop at Shop4fta.
    8 foot Skyvision mesh C and Ku band dish. Precision brand C/Ku feedhorn. Precision Gold Label Series - C LNB – 15 degree K. Ku LNB - .5db. 24” Thompson Saginaw Ball Screw actuator. Ku dishes: ROC 81 x 76cm, dual linear standard lnbf, model roc 785A. Motor on the Primestar 91 x 99cm, ROC standard twin lnbf. Direcway Hughes 99 x 58cm, FSS Stacked lnb, p/n 122677. Hughsnet 91 x 63cm, xtremeII .3db Ku band single lnb. 1.2M Prodelin dish added a WS model ESX522 LNBF. Openbox S9 FTA receiver. GI DSR920 – digital “dead” but new battery to hold stored info and change polarity and move BUD. Mitsubishi 65” projection HDTV. Dish 1000.4 and 722K DVR. Charter internet – 20 M down, 3 M up. Sony DHG-HDD500 HD recorder. Samsung Blu-ray player. Onyko TX-DS797 AV Receiver. Wii player. Pioneer 300 disc DVD player DV-F727. 9 foot Wilson Steel prime focus dish off to a new home. All protected by a 12 camera Geovision security system. 24 hour recording in progress. Transmitted and stored off premises. All in use at a house that is owned and operated solely for the comfort & convenience of the 19 pound black cat – Sir Robert Thomas – RT.

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  3. #2

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    The power supply is separate from the lnb voltage.
    If the power supply is bad the whole receiver would be dark. Is this your case?
    If it is just LNB voltage of your concern, it is controlled by a regulator located on the main board near the tuner and has an aluminum heat sink on it. Looks like a big power transistor.
    If you can use a volt meter here are some checks you can make.
    The regulator has three pins on it...
    One has 24v. coming in from the main supply.
    One has 0v. (ground)
    One will have 13v. or 18v. coming out if the device is working properly.

  4. #3
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    These voltage regulators typically handle 1.5 amp of current, so your basic specs are there. I have an LM317T in my hand.
    Vout= 1.2 to 37V
    Cout limited to 1.5A

    Absolute maximum ratings
    15W
    i/o voltage differential 40V
    -Brent
    1.0M Ku dish/DG-380/ -Quad linear lnbf, Solomend 800 PVR (7/31/2011 Software).
    6 ft BUD /Dual Orthomode feedhorn, Manhattan RS-1933,version 3.8 software .
    CS8000, Skywalker-1( s/n #21), Profs 7500, hanging from various cables from WNC 4x8 powered switch-

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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Pixl View Post
    The power supply is separate from the lnb voltage.
    If the power supply is bad the whole receiver would be dark. Is this your case?
    NO.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pixl View Post
    If it is just LNB voltage of your concern, it is controlled by a regulator located on the main board near the tuner and has an aluminum heat sink on it. Looks like a big power transistor.
    If you can use a volt meter here are some checks you can make.
    The regulator has three pins on it...
    One has 24v. coming in from the main supply.
    One has 0v. (ground)
    One will have 13v. or 18v. coming out if the device is working properly.
    That "bad" S9 has voltage coming out to the LNB's, but there must not be any current. Nothing received.
    Power the LNB's with my 920 and that S9 works fine. Not enough "power" to fire up the LNB's from the S9.
    .
    Maybe I'll open it up and take a look.
    RT. < Cat
    TL. < Me - N8BMH


    WARNING to all: NEVER shop at Shop4fta.
    8 foot Skyvision mesh C and Ku band dish. Precision brand C/Ku feedhorn. Precision Gold Label Series - C LNB – 15 degree K. Ku LNB - .5db. 24” Thompson Saginaw Ball Screw actuator. Ku dishes: ROC 81 x 76cm, dual linear standard lnbf, model roc 785A. Motor on the Primestar 91 x 99cm, ROC standard twin lnbf. Direcway Hughes 99 x 58cm, FSS Stacked lnb, p/n 122677. Hughsnet 91 x 63cm, xtremeII .3db Ku band single lnb. 1.2M Prodelin dish added a WS model ESX522 LNBF. Openbox S9 FTA receiver. GI DSR920 – digital “dead” but new battery to hold stored info and change polarity and move BUD. Mitsubishi 65” projection HDTV. Dish 1000.4 and 722K DVR. Charter internet – 20 M down, 3 M up. Sony DHG-HDD500 HD recorder. Samsung Blu-ray player. Onyko TX-DS797 AV Receiver. Wii player. Pioneer 300 disc DVD player DV-F727. 9 foot Wilson Steel prime focus dish off to a new home. All protected by a 12 camera Geovision security system. 24 hour recording in progress. Transmitted and stored off premises. All in use at a house that is owned and operated solely for the comfort & convenience of the 19 pound black cat – Sir Robert Thomas – RT.

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    If you do get inside, another thing to check is a small resistor right in front of the regulator (see yellow arrow in photo).
    It looks like a tiny black square component and should measure about 200 ohms. If this has been over heated it will go high in value. It is possible to tack solder a new one right across the old one on the top side of the board.
    This resistor is more troublesome than the regulator itself.

    brentb636, kodaz and RT-Cat like this.

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    What I was looking for was what the pros think are the "best" voltages for switching the LNB from vertical/horizontal.
    I've found my C bnd lnb will not switch to vertical until the LNBF voltage drops below 14v. and switches to horizontal a few 10ths below 16v. My 9200 and the S9 supply 14.3 volts for vertical. To high to switch the C band feed reliably*. My Ku LNBF's all switch to Vertical right around 15 volts. *reason I put a diode inline, to switch polarity on C band.
    Maybe, one day, when not so lazy, I'll look in there and change the resistor to lower the voltage.

    LM317data sheet





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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Pixl View Post
    If you do get inside, another thing to check is a small resistor right in front of the regulator (see yellow arrow in photo).
    It looks like a tiny black square component and should measure about 200 ohms. If this has been over heated it will go high in value. It is possible to tack solder a new one right across the old one on the top side of the board.
    This resistor is more troublesome than the regulator itself.
    May be the regulator. I opened the receiver up last night and get 19.1V to ground on left pin, 0V on center, and 0V on right pin. That does not match up too good with your other post.
    Nice picture Jim. I looked the unit over and "ya gota" pull the whole board out to change that regulator. Oh, well, it can't be any worse than tearing this laptop I am on completely apart to change a bad power connector on it this last Fall.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	73790

    Quote Originally Posted by FaT Air View Post
    I've found my C bnd lnb will not switch to vertical until the LNBF voltage drops below 14v. and switches to horizontal a few 10ths below 16v. My 9200 and the S9 supply 14.3 volts for vertical. To high to switch the C band feed reliably*. My Ku LNBF's all switch to Vertical right around 15 volts. *reason I put a diode inline, to switch polarity on C band.
    Maybe, one day, when not so lazy, I'll look in there and change the resistor to lower the voltage.

    LM317data sheet



    The only time I need voltage switching for V/H is when I go to a satellite that one of the fixed dishes is set at. If I go C-band, that is on the 8ft BUD and the polarator takes care of V/H setting.

    RT. < Cat
    TL. < Me - N8BMH


    WARNING to all: NEVER shop at Shop4fta.
    8 foot Skyvision mesh C and Ku band dish. Precision brand C/Ku feedhorn. Precision Gold Label Series - C LNB – 15 degree K. Ku LNB - .5db. 24” Thompson Saginaw Ball Screw actuator. Ku dishes: ROC 81 x 76cm, dual linear standard lnbf, model roc 785A. Motor on the Primestar 91 x 99cm, ROC standard twin lnbf. Direcway Hughes 99 x 58cm, FSS Stacked lnb, p/n 122677. Hughsnet 91 x 63cm, xtremeII .3db Ku band single lnb. 1.2M Prodelin dish added a WS model ESX522 LNBF. Openbox S9 FTA receiver. GI DSR920 – digital “dead” but new battery to hold stored info and change polarity and move BUD. Mitsubishi 65” projection HDTV. Dish 1000.4 and 722K DVR. Charter internet – 20 M down, 3 M up. Sony DHG-HDD500 HD recorder. Samsung Blu-ray player. Onyko TX-DS797 AV Receiver. Wii player. Pioneer 300 disc DVD player DV-F727. 9 foot Wilson Steel prime focus dish off to a new home. All protected by a 12 camera Geovision security system. 24 hour recording in progress. Transmitted and stored off premises. All in use at a house that is owned and operated solely for the comfort & convenience of the 19 pound black cat – Sir Robert Thomas – RT.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pixl View Post
    If you do get inside, another thing to check is a small resistor right in front of the regulator (see yellow arrow in photo).
    It looks like a tiny black square component and should measure about 200 ohms. If this has been over heated it will go high in value. It is possible to tack solder a new one right across the old one on the top side of the board.
    This resistor is more troublesome than the regulator itself.
    Jim, I took my high power magnifier and took a look at that resistor. It has 3 (?) solder points. Rather an "odd" resistor to me.

    RT.

  10. #9

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    Ted,

    Did you measure the resistor?

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pixl View Post
    Ted,

    Did you measure the resistor?
    Well, yes, but as I stated it has three legs on it. New type with 3 solder points??? Never saw one like that.
    I get nothing across any two legs. ????? AS if it was "open."

    RT.

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