2015 EF9500 OLED Owner's Info and Calibration Results

Starting this thread a little late, but if anyone has one or gets one, this may help (have only had mine since February). I have also decided to get back into the amatuer calibration game and will have a new meter and signal generator here this week. So I will be posting charts as I perform the work, right now a 2D and 3D cal are on the todo list. UHD is out for me, the color accuracy on the 15's and even 16's is not very good, and considering 1080p blu-ray looks outstanding, I am probably gonna choose accuracy for now unless something changes (FW update, etc...).

Anyways, here are a few starting points:

Use ISF 1 and 2 modes.

• Gamma 2.2 (not as good as 2.4 IMO, but it looks nice)
• Brightness 49 (in 2.2 this will clip a little more black than 2.4 Gamma, but it is far better on these than showing too much black)
• Contrast 78
• Oled Light 40 (this is a starting point and may be too bright for some; adjust up or down as needed)
• Gamut controls do not work well on these, but color accuracy is very good stock
• Cut off noise reduction features
• TruMotion offers full motion rez (650 lines like an LCD; this is a 120hz panel) with Deblur 10. Dejudder 1-2 is ideal, granted 2 may be a little too soapy for some on 60hz content and 1 would be best. 2 looks best to me on 24hz content.
• Gamma 2.4 is the better mode IMO, the image is very rich and contrasty and the only difference is Brightness needs to be 52 with Gamma 2.4.

In 3D, all the above settings match pattern results which I guess is due to it being passive 3D. Not sure how grayscale adjustments will compare between 2D and 3D, but I plan on checking that with the meter.

The 2015's have two defenses against IR, granted they don't seem to pick it up as easily or retain it like my 2012 plasma:

• Compensation cycle - Some type of panel voltage regulation that occurs after every 2 hours of uptime. You will notice the red optical port stays lit after you cut the display off, for about 10 mins, and then you will hear a click when it shuts off. The only way to increase or decrease this interval is to use the service menu remote. I intend on leaving mine alone
• Screen dimming - after 75 seconds or so of a static image the screen will dim itself down, once the image is active again it will brighten back up.

Service Remote (Image attached):

MKJ39170828
Only real benefit for this is more detailed panel info and changing comp cycles, hours of use are in the normal user menus.

Service Menu Image (UTT are hours and then you have Comp Cycle Count):


Comp Cycle Interval Settings:


Only pattern info to note is that the OLED clips fine chroma resolution with a ycbcr 444 1080p input, as shown here (dark block):


If you input 2160p ycbcr 444, 1080p ycbcr 422 or 1080p rgb 444 it tests fine. I let the Samsung UHD player send 1080p blu-ray discs out as 2160p/24 ycbcr 444 to the display.

Got some more motion testing done today.

With 60hz material, TruMotion and real Cinema are flawed, no combo can avoid jitters on certain programming so I recommend them off. I can't really see where it is necessary on the normal run of the mill HDTV stuff anyways.

Now on 24hz material, I find myself bothered by judder and I do prefer Dejudder 2 and Deblur 10. The difference is with 24hz material, I don't see the 60hz jitters that show up on a few tv shows, so it works very well. DJ 2 and DB 10 also work perfectly with 1080p/24 3D.

Toys came in

OK, spent some time with motion patterns today off the Spears and Munsil 2 disc (Resolution, Stock Ticker, X Parade and Sarah on a Hammock), using the 1080p/24 Blu-ray being sent as 2160p/24 to the LG from the Samsung UHD player. Keep in mind these are all side scrolling patterns so they really show the double imaging and blur.

• On the first 3, with TM OFF, there is a noticeable improvement when you turn RC ON.
• With RC ON, going to DJ 2 and DB 10 shows another jump in image clarity. RC seems to tighten up the edge of the image but much of the image still has some judder/double imaging. Turning TM ON clears up a lot of that double image.
• The swinging hammock really shows what TM ON is capable of, at least if you do not go too high on Dejudder (artifacts), and at 2 is an obvious improvement where RC ON vs OFF is hard to tell. This pattern is kind of a torture test.
• On 1080i/60, I used Vikings on History. This is by far the worst offender for frame dropping or stuttering that I watch, and I found one scene with a side pan and some support poles that jumped across the screen. RC on by itself fails (stuttering). TM DJ 2 and DB 10 with RC ON, fails. RC ON with DB 10 and DJ 0, fails. DB 10, DJ 0, RC OFF, fails. Only way that scene passes for me is with TM AND RC OFF.

So going forward I will leave TM and RC off for 60hz content and turn on TM and RC for 24hz content. Regardless of what those two features are or are not doing, only my eyes can tell me what has the best motion for me.

Finally dipped my feet in last night with the new gear. Considering this was my first time using the new CP software, and my first time using an accupel 5000 controlled by CP, I kept it simple.

• I set brightness
• I set OLED Light (35) to give me 42 fL with an accupel window. 40 measured about 47fL.
• I measured the as found mode with a 2.2 gamma (the way I was watching after I bought the display) and warm2
• I then changed to 2.4 gamma, set brightness (moved from 49 to 52), cal'd 2pt and then 20pt.
• I used the color and tint module on CP instead of messing with the CMS, and found 54 to give a dE of 2. I think Chad used 53 IIRC. This brought red and green more in line and pushed blue out a little, but it is a tradeoff.
• I had a bit of an issue with my windows display scaling last night and could not mess with even measuring Gamut, but I got that worked out late and may mess with it tonight.

ISF Warm 2 Gamma 2.2 Stock Settings grayscale dE 5


ISF Warm 2 Gamma 2.4 After Cal Grayscale dE 0.39



When you look at the as found 2.2 gamma Warm 2 mode, there is a reason these look so good out of the box. But as reported, the low black is green.

Well this cal went more smoothly, just tedious. I can't imagine having to do this with a blu-ray disc as your source...

• I did 2pt high for 80%
• 2pt low to get 5% close
• Adjusted greens in 20pt to get gamma right
• Then started with 95% 20pt and worked down getting 20pt right. I did not use 100% or 5% controls
• 80 Contrast, 35 OLED light and the 2.33 final gamma ended up around 40.5fL with a standard 100% window
• Using the Accupel brightness patterns, I did not move Brightness from it's normal 52 spot for 2.4 gamma after the cal was complete
• For the 11-21 1% step pattern, I could see 4 bars. So basically 18, 19, 20 and 21. 16 and 17 were dark
• For the 6-26 2% step pattern, I could see 5 bars (18, 20, 22, 24, 26)
• IMO, the key is to make sure 17 is dead to protect yourself on poor sources

Pre Cal Gamma and Grayscale (2.4 gamma and Warm 2)/2.37 gamma 3.99 dE


Post Cal/2.33 gamma dE 0.60


Pre cal Gamut dE 2.63


Post cal dE 1.65


Pre cal color checker


Post cal color checker

Did a new cal last night, I was not happy with that 2.35 gamma target, just too dark. After reading some more and looking at what Chad does, it seems to be normal to ramp up from a gamma point around 2.1 to 2.2 and then settle out to come out of black better. So that is what I did here, and it looks a lot like Chad did on my VT50 and his OLED cal. Will probably prefer it all around. This will also be my UHD/HDR mode, since the cal controls are locked out once HDR kicks in, but the settings seem to xover well. Wide color gamut setting really just track 709 out wider but makes color worse, or less accurate, so I will leave it off when watching HDR.









Will try this out on Deadpool UHD Sunday night.

For some reason the 2nd image is having issues: