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Yes, it was quite the feature laden receiver. A bit of a pain to get it set-up and working properly, but very slick once it was. There was also a re-badged version sold by General Instruments.

Another possibility is it is a 10k, 10 turn pot sensor (they used 3 wires too).

The actuator arm only controls the dish movement. You are having to adjust your elevation at your extremes (east/west) because your alignment is off.

I'm late to the party, but here is what I would try. First adjust the declination for best signal/quality at one end, say 55W. Then move to 121W and repeat for it. Then, split the difference (adjust the declination halfway between the two). Then go to your southern satellite and adjust the...

http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-satellite-discussion/167993-pipe-dish.html

G-16? Might have been G-4 then. Go here: SatelliteGuys.US - TheList for more up to date names/locations.

Steve, Just looked at my spare Co-rotor II, and yes, the Ku LNB only fits one way (well, two if you rotate it 180 degrees, lol). Is this a solid metal dish? If so, you should be able to pick some Ku channels. I have an old 12' aluminum mesh dish (that was damaged enough to be replaced by...

http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-satellite-discussion/168889-polarotor-servo-controller-design.html It should work fine. If you build one, please let us know how it works for you. Thanks!

This one has a darker background in the notch (the yellow/first one was hard to see when I downloaded it).

The GI 350i does Ku. If you don't have a voltage controlled switch to hook up to it, use a decent quality A/B switch (and yes, I have done this with this receiver).

1) In hindsight, it probably would have been easier to flip the dish after the mounting hardware had been installed and put the arms on while it was on the ground, but if you have a tall enough step ladder, it won't be hard. 2) I'm not familiar with the BSC 621, so will let someone who is...

That Conifer dish was made in Oregon (sold from anyway). I sold a couple. That is a good dish, but there is quite a bit of wiggle in the polar mount (moves too much on a windy day). But it does pull in a good signal. I have a Conifer that was made in Iowa. Different company (and has different...

@equant Mind if I ask why you chose the micro controller route instead of one or two 555's like Anole mentioned? I'm interested in what you are doing, but don't have any experience with micro controllers. Thanks.

Two please.

Someone else asked about that here (someone that had one): http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-satellite-discussion/55303-where-get-converter-control-servo-14v-18v-switching-receiver.html

Hook it up to your multimeter, check if open or shorted, put a good magnet near it and it should change states.

That's the one.

I had one like the black unit on the right in the center photo. (but I don't see a toggle switch on yours)

Have you taken the 5 wire actuator apart? It could be a 10 turn pot. (not an optical). Also, the shaft will come off of the motor assy. (screws at the base hold it in place), so you could just replace the shaft if the motor is still in good working condition.

20+ years ago there used to be a stand alone controller for polarotors. A wallwart supplied power to the unit (which looked something like the old Atari 2600 paddle controller). It had a toggle switch to flip from vert. to horz. and a big wheel/knob for fine adjustment of the probe. I had...

Yes, it's just for C-Band. The blue box is the servo motor that rotates the probe to switch between horizontal and vertical polarities.

The "main outer tube" on my 18" actuator is about 22 3/8". An 18" actuator should work ok (have a 6' Unimesh w/18" actuator).