about to install 7.5 ft c band dish have a few questions

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could some one explain all the different angles that are mentioned in this picture and where on the dish and polar mount they are measured
 

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And I've always thought a picture was worth a thousand words.
From top to bottom: Dish elevation. The perpendicular of the dish mount ring> can also be measured if a straight edge is placed Vertical across the dish face. "0" reading when the dish face were aimed at the horizon, increasing to 90 when faced straight up.
The Extreme Elevation, is 90 degrees from this.
Latitude; the angle of the polar axis (the dish rotates about) Reads "0" when placed horizontal) The polar elevation is 90 degrees from this.
Angles are measured when the dish is placed at it's highest with the actuator. This also = true south when it's aligned.
The 'arc' is highest at this point.
 
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And I've always thought a picture was worth a thousand words.
From top to bottom: Dish elevation. The perpendicular of the dish mount ring> can also be measured if a straight edge is placed Vertical across the dish face. "0" reading when the dish face were aimed at the horizon, increasing to 90 when faced straight up.
The Extreme Elevation, is 90 degrees from this.
Latitude; the angle of the polar axis (the dish rotates about) Reads "0" when placed horizontal) The polar elevation is 90 degrees from this.
Angles are measured when the dish is placed at it's highest with the actuator. This also = true south when it's aligned.
The 'arc' is highest at this point.
Thank you very much fat air
Will post picts after I get the dish up

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Well, I'm not going to say it's the best but, I've used grey jacketed cable made by Carol and purchased at Home Depot: 14 gauge, 2 conductor, no shield, for the motor and 22 gauge, 4 conductor, shielded, for the position sensor. (If you're using a reed switch for the position sensor you only need 2 conductor shielded but I already had the 4 conductor on-hand) The 4 conductor could also be used to run a polarity servo. This has worked with zero problems for me.
 
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100ft run of unshielded underground sprinkler wire, and zero problems with my setup also. I doubled the wires for motor voltage, so 7 wire cable with 1 spare left over.
 
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Performing many years of C-band service calls has repeatedly taught me the benefits of using proper gauge and shielded control cable runs. You will save a few bucks using unshielded and undersized small gauge wires, but you may encounter positioning errors and loose lifting power and positioning speed. There are many installations where proximity to well and pool pumps, air conditioning units, electrical lines and noisy motors required shielding with drain to ground. Paired 18 or 22 gauge wires for motor current of 24Vdc @ 3 amps is very underrated. Yes, it might work, but it is not advised. Your mileage may vary, but you will only find out afterwards... :)

In my opinion, recommending sprinkler wire for a BUD install is like recommending a 75cm instead of a 90cm KU dish for a newbie. Yes, a smaller dish may get most of the channels, but why not recommend something appropriate? It's not like we anyone is suggesting that he buy Monster branded and priced cables! :eeek

GotCBand has a great deal on the ribbon cable. Highly recommend!
 
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i got this for motor control:
Coleman Cable 095136208 12/2 Low Voltage Lighting Cable, 100-Feet

and this for the reed sensor:
DIY 18/2 100 Feet In Wall Speaker Wire Spool CL2 Rated UL Listed


would of loved the actual ribbon cable like titanium recommended but it cost to much for the 100 ft length for my cable run
 
So what is the total cost for two RG6 coax cables and unshielded control wires and a trip to Home Depot?

Hard to beat this price for Commscope ribbon 2-RG6u. 2-16g, 3-20g, 3-22g, shield + drain. Ebay: 50ft - $59 / 100ft - $104 and free shipping with best offer option. :D
 
So what is the total cost for two RG6 coax cables and unshielded control wires and a trip to Home Depot?

Hard to beat this price for Commscope ribbon 2-RG6u. 2-16g, 3-20g, 3-22g, shield + drain. Ebay: 50ft - $59 / 100ft - $104 and free shipping with best offer option. :D

Now Brian, you are beginning to sound like my wife.... I have been getting around her objections to total $$ spent on our hobby by buying parts incrementally for years!


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ok back to my original question on measuring the different angles attched is a picture of the pole and polar mount so where do i measure the angles on the my pole and mount
 

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Please provide a side angle photo of your mount like the example you provided.

The declination will either be at the top or bottom, but otherwise the other angles in the example photo will transfer over to your mount.
 
Please provide a side angle photo of your mount like the example you provided.

The declination will either be at the top or bottom, but otherwise the other angles in the example photo will transfer over to your mount.
will do that tomorrow after mounting the dish and actuator
 
ok back to my original question on measuring the different angles attched is a picture of the pole and polar mount so where do i measure the angles on the my pole and mount

I don't want to cause you too much heartburn, but your polar mount has the top actuator on the West side.

Don't you live in Texas! Which is West of the Mississippi River?

I only mention it because all my C Band dishes
ImageUploadedBySatelliteGuys1405743836.191645.jpg
are attached on the East side.

Not sure about how critical it is.?


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I don't want to cause you too much heartburn, but your polar mount has the top actuator on the West side.

Don't you live in Texas! Which is West of the Mississippi River?

I only mention it because all my C Band dishes View attachment 99569 are attached on the East side.

Not sure about how critical it is.?


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He's at about the center of the arc so I wouldn't think it would make much difference. I'm in Arkansas and mounted on the West side.
 
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While most recommend the actuator on the east side for a dish west of the Mississippi , I would think it would be more dependant on what part of the arc you would have the dish parked at most of the time. That would probably be a lot easier on the actuator but I could be wrong.
 
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I don't want to cause you too much heartburn, but your polar mount has the top actuator on the West side.

Don't you live in Texas! Which is West of the Mississippi River?

I only mention it because all my C Band dishes View attachment 99569 are attached on the East side.

Not sure about how critical it is.?


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I have a laser 7.5 ft dish made by perfect 10 and per the perfect 10 instructions west of 104 degrees longitude the actuator goes on the left, east of 104 degrees longitude it goes on the right

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BiggT hit the nail on the head. The actuator placement depends on what section of the arc the dish is working. Generally, the suggestion for East/West of Missisippi is correct for a user to cover the entire arc of visible and working satellites. If the dish is primarily used for receiving satellites that are very low to the horizon, the actuator would be placed on that side of the arc.

I have seen some installers add a "L" shaped bracket to the actuator mounting point to extend the drive range limit. This helps avoid the dreaded "flop" or "bind" that occurs when the dish is driven past the mechanical support limit on the opposite side of the arc.
 
Yes, you are of course referring to step #11

ImageUploadedBySatelliteGuys1405775795.084885.jpg


But it appears your mount has no bracket for the East (left) side. (But it doesn't matter)

Edited..


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