Hybrid LNB Wiring Diagrams

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At this point in time you can have 1 Hopper 3 per hybrid LNB, so the technical limit is 1 H3 per dish.

DISH says they only allow one H3 per account, so that's the way it is. They make the rules. If DISH would allow multiple H3's per account you would need a separate dish for each one.

Well, in fact I HAVE 2 Hopper 3's, and was able to get the second one activated after speaking with someone higher up at Dish. Now all I have to do is make it work. I will put up a second dish if I must, but my wife would prefer not.
I'm still trying to figure out why one can't split the signal from the LNB using switches and isolators. If the signal from the LNB cannot be split and isolated, then I do not understand at all how it works, and would very
much appreciate a technical explanation, just for my own benefit. Thank you very much!
 
I'm still trying to figure out why one can't split the signal from the LNB using switches and isolators.

Because the H3 (to get 16 tuners on one cable) goes way beyond normal VIP bandstacking (2 tuners), and beyond even the triple bandstacking done by the H1 and H2 (3 tuners). It is basically bandstacking 16 different transponders, independently addressable at the hybrid LNB/switch, onto one cable. In principle, Dish could build a more sophisticated switch into the hybrid LNB to allow 2 H3's on two cables, but that doesn't exist and I doubt Dish will ever engineer one.
 
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Because the H3 (to get 16 tuners on one cable) goes way beyond normal VIP bandstacking (2 tuners), and beyond even the triple bandstacking done by the H1 and H2 (3 tuners). It is basically bandstacking 16 different transponders, independently addressable at the hybrid LNB/switch, onto one cable. In principle, Dish could build a more sophisticated switch into the hybrid LNB to allow 2 H3's on two cables, but that doesn't exist and I doubt Dish will ever engineer one.
There has been discussion of just such a switch to be available late this year. Of course it is vaporware today and may well stay that way.
 
Well, in fact I HAVE 2 Hopper 3's, and was able to get the second one activated after speaking with someone higher up at Dish. Now all I have to do is make it work. I will put up a second dish if I must, but my wife would prefer not.
I'm still trying to figure out why one can't split the signal from the LNB using switches and isolators. If the signal from the LNB cannot be split and isolated, then I do not understand at all how it works, and would very
much appreciate a technical explanation, just for my own benefit. Thank you very much!

IIRC Scott recently posted that there will be no more exceptions to the one H3 policy. Apparently you got lucky with your timing.

At this point in time you will need another dish and hybrid LNB to make the second H3 work. Period.
 
There has been discussion of just such a switch to be available late this year. Of course it is vaporware today and may well stay that way.

I fear you may be right on that being vaporware. What I was suggesting was that a hybrid LNB with integrated switch would probably not be built having two outputs capable of driving 32 tuners. If the switch remains vaporware, then the integrated LNB/switch is even more unlikely ever to be built.
 
You should always ground the Dish system. I bought a galvanized 8ft ground rod and 25ft aluminum bare wiring and a ground clamp all for about $12. Drive rod down about half its length
put wire on grounding located at antenna and connect to ground rod.

Hey guys... I'm just now brand new to this forum and to DISH. You look like you guys have been around this stuff for awhile. Awesome info.

I'm about to dive into a Hopper 3 and a single Joey 2.0 installation from a 1000.2 with WA DPH LNBF via hybrid solo hub. I've got a specialized heavy duty tripod (from TV4RV) and think I've got antenna aiming and anchoring (to the ground) pretty well understood. I'm an amateur radio guy (although not microwave) and understand azimuth, elevation and skew for a particular zip. And I have a peaking meter with a general idea how to use it.

The rub is I'm doing this on my own because I live full time in an RV (currently in Rochester, Minnesota, heading west and south, then northwest for the next couple of years). BUT I wanted the H3 capability. DISH doesn't really want to talk to me about H3 in an RV. I bought the gear outright new from a retailer and I'm sorta confident that I can get through this with some expert input. I posted some pics of my efforts so far on my RV blog (BigRigRoads.wordpress.com) if interested.

I'm somewhat technical but have zero experience in installing and configuring this stuff. I've watched every video I can get hold of and have read everything I can find. Hopefully, you guys don't think I'm crazy. I know I'm only a rank amateur, but one way or another, I'm gonna get this done.

A couple of questions:
1. I think I just make one run of RG6 from the 1000.2 (WA 119) to a solo hybrid node (ODU port) and then one run to the H3 from the host port on the node, and one run to the Joey via the client port, right?
2. The quote above was on grounding. My RV (motorhome) obviously has a 12VDC ground to the chassis, and an AC ground via my 50A (220VAC) shore power cord when plugged in at an RV park. And once I get my ham radio gear set up, I'll also have an RF ground, but that's future (mama gotta have TV first!).
Have any of y'all any idea what kind of ground I should be thinking about with my antenna on a tripod out away from the coach (if any), and physically what might you recommend? I'm in one location for only a few weeks at a time, so I thought if a ground is essential, I'd just drive a ground into the ground and attach it to the solo node just inside the coach. Otherwise, no ground? Don't know.

I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get the hardware and wiring configured and start in on the software install and config. Can't wait!

Thanks much, guys. Hopefully this is not an inappropriate first post.
Cheers.
Gene
BigRigRoads.wordpress.com
 
Hey guys... I'm just now brand new to this forum and to DISH. You look like you guys have been around this stuff for awhile. Awesome info.

I'm about to dive into a Hopper 3 and a single Joey 2.0 installation from a 1000.2 with WA DPH LNBF via hybrid solo hub. I've got a specialized heavy duty tripod (from TV4RV) and think I've got antenna aiming and anchoring (to the ground) pretty well understood. I'm an amateur radio guy (although not microwave) and understand azimuth, elevation and skew for a particular zip. And I have a peaking meter with a general idea how to use it.

The rub is I'm doing this on my own because I live full time in an RV (currently in Rochester, Minnesota, heading west and south, then northwest for the next couple of years). BUT I wanted the H3 capability. DISH doesn't really want to talk to me about H3 in an RV. I bought the gear outright new from a retailer and I'm sorta confident that I can get through this with some expert input. I posted some pics of my efforts so far on my RV blog (BigRigRoads.wordpress.com) if interested.

I'm somewhat technical but have zero experience in installing and configuring this stuff. I've watched every video I can get hold of and have read everything I can find. Hopefully, you guys don't think I'm crazy. I know I'm only a rank amateur, but one way or another, I'm gonna get this done.

A couple of questions:
1. I think I just make one run of RG6 from the 1000.2 (WA 119) to a solo hybrid node (ODU port) and then one run to the H3 from the host port on the node, and one run to the Joey via the client port, right?
2. The quote above was on grounding. My RV (motorhome) obviously has a 12VDC ground to the chassis, and an AC ground via my 50A (220VAC) shore power cord when plugged in at an RV park. And once I get my ham radio gear set up, I'll also have an RF ground, but that's future (mama gotta have TV first!).
Have any of y'all any idea what kind of ground I should be thinking about with my antenna on a tripod out away from the coach (if any), and physically what might you recommend? I'm in one location for only a few weeks at a time, so I thought if a ground is essential, I'd just drive a ground into the ground and attach it to the solo node just inside the coach. Otherwise, no ground? Don't know.

I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get the hardware and wiring configured and start in on the software install and config. Can't wait!

Thanks much, guys. Hopefully this is not an inappropriate first post.
Cheers.
Gene
BigRigRoads.wordpress.com
1- You are correct all the way.
2- I'm not sure anyone in an RV grounds their portable antenna. Brussam, http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/members/brussam.61393/, is our regular RV expert on this website. I'm sure he'll be along to advise you soon or you can start a conversation with him.
 
Grounding an RV Antenna when connected to the site's AC Mains sounds like an invitation to ground loops (difference in voltage potential between the ground coming from the campground and the rod you place in the ground). Since you're probably mounting the Dish 1000.2 on the ground, chances are it won't be the highest object around, and I would think a simple messenger ground from your RV to the Dish would be sufficient to tackle bleeding off static charge from wind and rain. I would wear heavy rubber gloves when making the messenger connection, or do it before plugging into the Mains.
(Here's an extreme case from The Verge)

Interesting question.
 
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Hey guys... I'm just now brand new to this forum and to DISH. You look like you guys have been around this stuff for awhile. Awesome info.

I'm about to dive into a Hopper 3 and a single Joey 2.0 installation from a 1000.2 with WA DPH LNBF via hybrid solo hub. I've got a specialized heavy duty tripod (from TV4RV) and think I've got antenna aiming and anchoring (to the ground) pretty well understood. I'm an amateur radio guy (although not microwave) and understand azimuth, elevation and skew for a particular zip. And I have a peaking meter with a general idea how to use it.

The rub is I'm doing this on my own because I live full time in an RV (snip)

Another full tome RVer here. I just installed an H3 in my rig. I have the same tripod on the ground and a Winegard Trav'ler on the roof.I used a Dish retailer. He changed the LNB on the tripod dish and bought a second one for the Trav'ler. It was a simple switch out and, other than disconnecting the H3 from the Trav'ler when seeking the sats, it's no different than before.

Until I discovered this thread, I didn't know about grounding the system and the installer didn't do anything with a ground. The Trav'ler is only a couple of months old. I have been using the dish and tripod for about 3 years with a 722. Had no ground on that one either. I used RG6U for all my wire runs and didn't have to do anything special for the change. I got a wireless Joey (in an RV, fewer wires are always better, so the LNB output goes straight into the H3.
 
Another full tome RVer here. I just installed an H3 in my rig. I have the same tripod on the ground and a Winegard Trav'ler on the roof.I used a Dish retailer. He changed the LNB on the tripod dish and bought a second one for the Trav'ler. It was a simple switch out and, other than disconnecting the H3 from the Trav'ler when seeking the sats, it's no different than before.

Until I discovered this thread, I didn't know about grounding the system and the installer didn't do anything with a ground. The Trav'ler is only a couple of months old. I have been using the dish and tripod for about 3 years with a 722. Had no ground on that one either. I used RG6U for all my wire runs and didn't have to do anything special for the change. I got a wireless Joey (in an RV, fewer wires are always better, so the LNB output goes straight into the H3.

Thanks for the response, MR! It's great to connect with other full-timers who are successfully using what I'm currently attempting to get up and running.

What do you use to aim your dish... just one of those cheap little satellite finders (peaking meter)? If so, any tips for me? I assume you set up aiming for 119. Is that the left most LNB as viewed from the dish? And do you cover the other two (middle and right) when aiming? You can tell I'm a rank amateur here! Kinda fun aiming my own antenna though. Any other tips you might have from your experience on using the TV4RV set up would also be greatly appreciated. I'm pretty good at getting it level, and the rest of it is just lack of experience. I set the skew ahead of time and have all the updates to the dish for ease of aiming (elevation kit, black T-knobs instead of bolts, etc.)

Thanks again, MR, and I really appreciate willingness of you and the other guys to share you wealth of knowledge and experience with this newb. This is a great forum!

Gene
 
Got a question for those who have already had a new hopper 3 install. Do you ground the hybrid switch or do you ground both the hybrid switch and the regular ground for the coax coming in your house? Does the hybrid switch become the ground? Curious because I have a new install to do next weekend -weather permitting.
 
Got a question for those who have already had a new hopper 3 install. Do you ground the hybrid switch or do you ground both the hybrid switch and the regular ground for the coax coming in your house? Does the hybrid switch become the ground? Curious because I have a new install to do next weekend -weather permitting.

Just a regular ground block for grounding the coax. Nothing to the hub which is after the ground block.
 
I just used my old ground block that grounds two lines as they went to the new hybrid solo node. Only one line is being used and then I used the node in my distribution cabinet.
 
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Could someone give advice on how to wire two hopper 2's, two joeys and I like to add a super Joey. I currently have one duo node doing the 4 rooms. I do have the older lnb, but also have a new hybrid one if that makes my life easier. I've looked around and have not seen images of that combo.

Thanks.
 
Could someone give advice on how to wire two hopper 2's, two joeys and I like to add a super Joey. I currently have one duo node doing the 4 rooms. I do have the older lnb, but also have a new hybrid one if that makes my life easier. I've looked around and have not seen images of that combo.

Thanks.
You can't have a Super Joey with 2 Hoppers.
Thats why you haven't seen a wiring diagram for it.

Samsung Galaxy S6 Active
 
A couple questions I haven't seen addressed anywhere:

Am I correct in guessing that due to the increased frequency range and stacking of MoCA with satellite signal between Hopper3 and hub, it's not at all possible to use diplexers to distribute RF on the same cable anymore? Bringing in an external OTA antenna now requires a separate cable?

Will anything that's not a hopper work with the 2nd feed from a Hybrid LNBF? The older dish receivers in my closet for example, if I want to connect and check for software updates? (I know they can't be activated on the same account)
 
A couple questions I haven't seen addressed anywhere:

Am I correct in guessing that due to the increased frequency range and stacking of MoCA with satellite signal between Hopper3 and hub, it's not at all possible to use diplexers to distribute RF on the same cable anymore? Bringing in an external OTA antenna now requires a separate cable?

Will anything that's not a hopper work with the 2nd feed from a Hybrid LNBF? The older dish receivers in my closet for example, if I want to connect and check for software updates? (I know they can't be activated on the same account)
Don't know the answer for your first questions.

But I do know DPP receivers won't work on the Hybrid if the H3 is connected to it.
The H3 disables the DPP capabilities while its connected.

You would need a seperate dish.

The 2nd output is for customers that have 2 H2s with DPP technology.
 
Well, in fact I HAVE 2 Hopper 3's, and was able to get the second one activated after speaking with someone higher up at Dish. Now all I have to do is make it work. I will put up a second dish if I must, but my wife would prefer not.
I'm still trying to figure out why one can't split the signal from the LNB using switches and isolators. If the signal from the LNB cannot be split and isolated, then I do not understand at all how it works, and would very
much appreciate a technical explanation, just for my own benefit. Thank you very much!

Does the two Hopper3 will work from a single hybrid dish with duo hub?

You do not need the Hub. What you said about running the wire from the LNB to the ground block to the H3 will work fine. You only need the Hub if you're going to have a wired Joey or a HIC.

Is that true for all Hoppers (2000 / sling / 3 ) with hybrid LNB?

3-two-hoppers-duo-node-vs-solo-hub.jpg