Wanting to set up my C band dish- have questions

[Bluebeard123]

I previously had a 4dtv set up, and went out and bought an Amiko HD and Titanium ASC1. Today I am going to hunt up a monitor for display. I wanted to know how I wire everything so it all works together. I'd like to keep the 4DTV along side the Amiko. I assume I don't need to run the motor wires to the 4dtv as the ASC1 is doing the moving of the dish.

Attached is a photo of a wiring configuration an installer set up for me when I was running a Sandun dvb receiver 10 years ago. I don't know if it would help with this configuration or not. Maybe you can give me an idea where each connection goes. The Rx lead off the switch has a stickie telling me that part went to the 4dtv in. What do you think the yelllow splitters are supposed to do?

I'd like to try to get everything running tonight if I can.

Thanks for any help.

Rick

 

[Hockeynut]

What do you have for a Cband feed assembly?..Servo controlled or a dual Cband ortho setup?.No Ku on the big dish?.I was going to recommend just using the Amiko and ASC1 to move around the dish by way of Diseqc commands and using the Amiko loop out to the 4dtv but just took a look at my Mini HD and see it does not have a loop out...Sooo..Depending on ur feed setup will determine your options.

If you have an ortho feed it is pretty simple and makes for a nice setup..I do this here with all 4 of my BUDs..Lnb`s to powered multiswitch,,from multiswitch to positioner ( Gbox,Vbox,ASC1 ).From positioner to Diseqc switch..From switch to lnb input on receiver..The Diseqc switch is not needed but if you want to add more dish`s it opens even more doors.

All that is needed once this is setup as mentioned is running 1 line of rg6 from the multiswitch to the 4dtv then go into your settings and change the lnb settings to rotated 90 deg`s..Using ur Amiko to push around the dish to whatever sat ya want for the 4dtv.

You will like this setup once done.Good luck.

 

[Bluebeard123]

I think I have a dual Cband (ku and C on a Chaparral Lnb).

Can you try to exactly tell me where the coax goes to each device?

Do the incoming ku and C wires get split via a splitter, before the multi-switch? I would think so because the 4dtv wants to see individual Ku and C band wires.

The other side of the splitter goes to the Multi-switch where it reduces two coax wires into one. Where does the 5v-12v/gnd wire go?

The single coax wire coming out from the multi-switch, I then assume goes into the ASC1. Coming out of the ASC1, I assume is the coax that is going to the Amiko, right?

And then I just run the HDMI wire from the Amiko to the TV, right?

How's that sound? All the motor wires are running to the ASC1, so the 4dtv won't know which satellite it is on, but will act as just a slave receiver, right? I should be able to switch polarities and go through the channel selection to find active transponders, right?

Am I getting this, or is there a flaw in my thinking?

Rick

 

[mmewrench]

The easiest way to do this is to let the ASC1 power your lnbs. Single coax going from the Mini HD to the ASC1 Multiswitch between ASC1 and lnbs. If you still want to use the 4dtv, use a splitter with one side DC block between the Cband lnb and the multiswitch with the 4dtv on the DC blocked side because lnb power from the 4dtv can cause conflicts or damage to the ASC1 or multiswitch (there are no receivable ku signals for the 4dtv unless it is mapped for starchoice). You will then control the polarity and dish positioning with the ASC1.

I have been using this setup for almost a year now without issue. The ASC1 has enough power to move my 12 ft dish (occaisionally loaded with snow) and power my pll lnbs without a problem, and it is accurate enough for ku

 

[Bluebeard123]

mmewrench, thanks for the input, but let me ask a few questions to try to rephrase what you are telling me (I am an electronics/satellite "zero")

I guess you are working backwards from the direction I was going, so I will do it your way:

1. Single coax from Mini HD to ASC1

2. After the ASC` (moving toward the satellite) is the multi-switch and only the C lead leading into the multi-switch is split (I guess you call that a DC Block) BEFORE it enters the multi-switch from the satellite side of the switch (that would be the configuration of the pigtail I photographed, I guess).

3. So, only split the C band Lnb and go to the 4dtv? Is that what I am reading here?

4. No motor power to the 4dtv as it will mess up the ASC1

5. Do I do anything with the 5-13v leads from the multiswitch? Those same leads from the wire ribbon from the satellite dish are attached to the back of the ASC1.

 

[Magic Static]

can you post a clear picture of the switches with the yellow label so we can tell what kind of device that is. That switch setup you pictured would not be needed. I simple 22khz tone switch will do nicely.


From that switch to the LNB port on the ASC1. The switch can be anywhere in between the ASC1 and the LNBs. The three wires from the polarotor motor, red to 5V, white to pulse, black to ground on the ASC1. The motor wires to M1 and M2 and the 2 sensor wires to S1 and S2. Forget about that green wire on the motor for now. If the motor goes the wrong way switch M1 and M2. Once you have that much going we can talk about adding the 4DTV

In the receiver menu set the LNB LO to 5150/10750. 22khz tone control will be automatic. Tone on KU no tone on C-Band(I don't have a mini HD, I hope it has this)

In the ASC1 LNB menu, set LNB 18V

Hope I don't confuse you too bad

 

[Bluebeard123]

Magic Static- unfortunately I magic markered over the labels on the gold splitters, but I can make out the important stuff:

It says CS102PL, and it looks like this may be an updated version of the splitter: http://www.altex.com/2-Way-High-Q-Satellite-Splitter-CS202-P140744.aspx I am not sure what the "pl" means. It also says "one port dc bypass" on the label. Hope that helps.

I added the three wires from the polar rotar motor ribbon cable to the back of the ASC1. Do I do anything with the same sort of wires from the multi swicther? They currently terminate as a RCA plug. Does that go anywhere?

I still need to add the monitor (I need to find screws for the wall mount tomorrow).

I'll be in touch.

 

[Magic Static]

You don't need any of that stuff you pictured. Since you don't have a 22khz tone switch yet, just connect the C-Band LNB for now. This will get enough function to set up your receiver sat positions and start scanning in some channels

 

[Bluebeard123]

So set up the C band to be used with the Amiko? And forget about the 4dtv for now?

 

[Magic Static]

That would be a good plan. Get used to the new equipment before trying to complicate the setup with adding old equipment.

 

[Magic Static]

Actually that 4DTV unit is about good for a doorstop now-a-days. You won't find any use for it once you have your miniHD up and running.

 

[mmewrench]

mmewrench, thanks for the input, but let me ask a few questions to try to rephrase what you are telling me (I am an electronics/satellite "zero")

I guess you are working backwards from the direction I was going, so I will do it your way:

1. Single coax from Mini HD to ASC1

2. After the ASC` (moving toward the satellite) is the multi-switch and only the C lead leading into the multi-switch is split (I guess you call that a DC Block) BEFORE it enters the multi-switch from the satellite side of the switch (that would be the configuration of the pigtail I photographed, I guess).

3. So, only split the C band Lnb and go to the 4dtv? Is that what I am reading here?

4. No motor power to the 4dtv as it will mess up the ASC1

5. Do I do anything with the 5-13v leads from the multiswitch? Those same leads from the wire ribbon from the satellite dish are attached to the back of the ASC1.

The splitter I am talking about has one side that will pass DC current. That is the side that you would use to power your lnb. The other side blocks DC current. that side would connect to the 4dtv (thus preventing the 4dtv from sending current to the lnb). That splitter will go in between your switch and the lnb. I have attached a picture of the splitter.

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/S-8231D-2-Way_Splitter.jpg

As Magic static said, there are not many channels available for the 4dtv unless you sub to hits, even then there aren't many left.

 

[Bluebeard123]

My main interest is to find wildfeeds, rather than tv shows. If I had the 4dtv set up would I be able to find a lot of wildfeeds, or shall i just get rid of it? If I did toss the 4dtv, I still have the question of the multiswitch - where to the wires from the multi-switch go? Since the 12v wires on my ribbon cable go to the ASC1, do I do anything with the 12v wires on the multi-switch?

 

[Magic Static]

You indicated the 4DTV was in the garage last 10 years. If so the internal battery is dead and the unit has lost it's ID. It cannot be repaired to subscribe again and not good for anything much else. Forget about the multi-switch stuff. It's not needed. But do pick up a 22khz switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECODA-22KHZ...622?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d66898c6

 

[Bluebeard123]

Went to the local satellite store and got a pansat 4x1 diseqc switch (they only had a 4x switch). I plugged the two coaxs coming from the lnbs to two of the inputs and then ran the output to the ASC1. Turned it on and it said there was a short. I tested everything, and it looks like the pansat switch is what is shorting. Everything works fine, until I add the switch and then it shorts. The switch goes between the satellite dish and the ASC1, right? What am I doing wrong? Also, if I figure this part out, what setting do I put the ASC1 on when I turn it on for the Diseq?

 

[Magic Static]

Use a DiSEqC switch will not be as convenient, but will work. I believe the LNB short warning displays only briefly and is gone, right? This is characteristic of some setups and not a problem. The DiSEqC settings are in the receiver. You will set up two sets of satellite lists. One for KU and one for C-Band. For each satellite you will set the DiSEqC and LO. For Cband sats you set DiSEqC 1.0 port/LNB # 1 or which ever port on the switch you choose to use. Set the LO to 5150. Set the Satellite position number you choose in the DiSEqC 1.2 section.

For KU sats you set the DiSEqC 1.0 to the other port on the switch you chose ie port #2, set your sat position number in the DiSEqC 1.2 section and the LO for KU 10750.

The ASC1 is still set LNB 18V

 

[Bluebeard123]

It's late and I don't want to call Brian (and you guys are helping me slog through this).

So, the ASC1 should be set on "LNB Fixed 18v"?

Brian walked me through setting this up, but I forgot most of it since I have been dealing with the stuck H2H mount for the last few days.

I am totally confused right now.

This is where I am:

1. Plugged in the switch you told me about.

2. Turned everything on. I have the ASC1 parked at the apex of the arc. H:18v V:13v LNb set (is there anything else I need to do to the ASC1?

3. Turned the Amiko on and Brian set it up where the Amiko starts up with the satellite on 121W. I forgot what I was supposed to set the options to.

4. The vertical adjustment nut on the satellite was loose and my friend went and tightened it back down and assumed the lower nut was the correct location and thus screwed the upper nut
down toward the lower one. So with the system turned on, I scanned the sky 100 clicks in either direction of the top of the arc and found nothing. I am at a loss what to do now. I feel like I am in way over
my head here as I have no clue what to do at this point. If any of you can walk me through this step by step it would be much appreciated. Write to me as if you were talking to someone who has no clue
(because I don't). I tried reading the manuals, but they too assume that the reader understands what they are doing. So I am lost in a sea of gobbledgook. Help!!

Boy would I like to pay someone to come over and set this thing up for me......

 

[Titanium]

1. For now take the switch out of line and connect one end of the coax to the C-band LNB and the other end to the ASC1 "Sat" port.It is best to start simple!
2. You are using LNBs, so change the ASC1 LNB setting to "Fixed 18V" to provide correct power.
3. Place the mini HD SE on a 121W pre-programmed channel. Then you are tuned to a channel that is on a vertical transponder (look at the information screen displayed on banner at the bottom of the TV screen when the channel is first tuned or the Information key is pressed on the remote), Look inside the feedhorn and verify that the probe is angled straight up/down. When on a channel that is on a horizontal transponder, look inside the feedhorn and verify the the probe is angled at the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position. If the probe angle is not in correct angle for either polarity, then the skew offset needs to be adjusted with the ASC1 from the default +45/-45 degree positions for both horizontal and then on vertical then saved.

Now check the angle of the face of the dish. It should be close as you previously had the dish installed and tracking the arc. The face of the dish (measured from the top edge (12 o'clock) to the bottom edge (6 o'clock) should be approximately 44.5°. if it is not close to that angle, the elevation bolt is not correctly set. Adjust the main elevation bolt until an angle of approximately 44.5° is displayed.

Once you verified that the polarity angles are correct, press the Information key two times then press the red key one time to display the signal meter. Use the ASC1 to move the dish east 20 counts from the apex in 2 count steps then sweep west of the apex by 20 counts. If no channel is found then you are not likely still not on the arc or the polarity is not correctly set.

 

[Bluebeard123]

So, it just so happens that I have a starchoice satellite attached to the side of my house. Is there any possibility I could use it as a better satellite to receive the Ku signals? I have had numerous people tell me that having the smaller dish is much better for the Ku side of things. Attached are some photos of it. It makes no sense to buy a new dish if I have one already out there and ready to go. The starchoice dish looks like it is pretty much round (it may have a slight oblong shape)I guess I'd have to change the Lnb, and get some sort of motor for it, if I can use it. Recommendations?

 

[FaT Air]

Using a small dish is easier for Ku. 1) It was designed for Ku. BUD's are great on "C" but I have yet to be convinced many perform better than a 1.0 meter Ku dish. 2) aiming a BUD on Ku is very 'touchy' as the beamwidth is a small fraction of a degree. All tracking adjustments have to be spot on perfect.
You might be able to use the LNB that's already on it. (any #'s on it?) They do use both polarities on Anik F1.
Put a PLL unit on it for greater performance. I got a couple of Titanium Satellite PLL's and like them.