Fix Your OpenBox S-9 For 58 Cents

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I just received my 10 pieces I ordered from Digi-Key. I'm planning to update my (2) S9, (1) Solomend and (1) S10 with component outputs eventhough they are working OK. All 4 boxes are connected together to fixed dishes using 4x4 and Diseqc, so sometimes I lost some V polarities on my S10 when 2 or more of the boxes are turn on at the same time. Thanks Pixl for all your effort and inputs!!!
Digi Key.JPG
 
Wood,

The file will work if you rename the ext to .abs and load it into your box. I had to make it look like a txt file to get around the upload restrictions of this forum. Kind of a shame a sat board will not allow a common file type like abs.
The link you posted looks the same, probably will work as well.
 
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Could I just copy and paste it to a USB pen drive and let the Openbox S9 will do the rest? Or do I have to use a null cable? Thanks.

I just noticed the other part of your question. Yes, re-name to .abs and copy to your usb pen drive. You will then see the file in the OpenBox upload menu. You don't use a serial null cable for this. Also as a first step, be sure to dump a copy of the TP_prog file (has all your channels and sats in it) to the usb drive. When you are done with the FW upload, re-boot, and brief test, you then want to upload your TP_prog back in.
 
All done, TP_prog file back in. I had to download a free copy of winzip and it worked. I have Version C2HS2-11-12-13:0481CMT and the the chip id is 9CF4 so I'm okay thanks for the turn up information. Time to put the tape back on the right remote again. Thanks Pixl and FaT Air. (Audio on old TV is scratchy but no shutter on F1) Is there a .ABS version that works as above with cleaner audio on a old crt TV set?
 
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Just a note that the first post in this thread has been updated with some new information. So you might want to check it out, if you have already been following this thread.
 
Will like to hear from Pixl what we should do if we already purchased the original P/n He suggested. Do we need to go back and order this new one and discard the ones ordered???? Thanks
 
Well, after around 2 some years, mine is now showing symptoms which may be a bad PTC thermister. Noticed a week ago that I'd loose H polarity on the diseqc port where there's also a 22khz sw on to select the little Ku. Removed the 22khz sw and moved the Ku to another diseqc port, all was well. (Thinking it was a switch taking too much current.) Yesterday noticed I again lost H polarity on any LNBF selected via the diseqc. Voltmeter time. When first turning on the S9, the LNB voltage is normal. Let it run for an hour and both the H and V polarity voltages are down to 9.95 and 14.8 and still slowly dropping a few hundredths every few seconds. 14.8 isn't enough to switch the LNBF's to horizontal. So to watch a horizontal TP, cycle power off for a minute or two. That gets the LNB voltage high enough to go for an hour or so. No time to tear into it, or get to TRF today, so will have to put up with it for a while.
 
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PM me your address fatair and I will send you out one.
 
Will be turning the S9 off when not using it, until I tear into it, to not stress the part any more than necessary. Thanks again ke4est.
 
Will like to hear from Pixl what we should do if we already purchased the original P/n He suggested. Do we need to go back and order this new one and discard the ones ordered???? Thanks

If you already bought or installed the first Digi-key part I would use it. I did some testing on the first few I installed and a dead short does indeed cause the thermistor to open the circuit and protect the power supply. If you have yet to buy one go with the new part number as it is closer to the original specs. Not that critical, especially if you don't short out your coax very often.
 
If you already bought or installed the first Digi-key part I would use it. I did some testing on the first few I installed and a dead short does indeed cause the thermistor to open the circuit and protect the power supply. If you have yet to buy one go with the new part number as it is closer to the original specs. Not that critical, especially if you don't short out your coax very often.

I will use what I have, all new ones I need to order will go with the new p/n. Thanks!!!!
 
I did some testing on the first few I installed and a dead short does indeed cause the thermistor to open the circuit and protect the power supply.

So when that happens it shuts down the Openbox completely or reboots ?

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
 
So when that happens it shuts down the Openbox completely or reboots ?

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


Hey Pixl,
So now I'm a little big confused. So the short is created by the original part F1993CT-ND?? If so will it beter to use the new one F1990CT-ND??? Price on the parts is really cheap so I'll appreciated if you give me you honest opinion or point me in the right direction. I was in the process to begin to update all my 4 S9/S10 plus 4 of friends eventhough some of them are working OK. Thanks
 
Hey Pixl,
So now I'm a little big confused. So the short is created by the original part F1993CT-ND?? If so will it beter to use the new one F1990CT-ND??? Price on the parts is really cheap so I'll appreciated if you give me you honest opinion or point me in the right direction. I was in the process to begin to update all my 4 S9/S10 plus 4 of friends eventhough some of them are working OK. Thanks

No the short is not created by the original part. What he saying is if he shorts the coax on purpose(to test it) the part is doing what it is supposed to do.
 
So when that happens it shuts down the Openbox completely or reboots ?

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
If the box is rebooting, think the problem is in the Power supply. The PTC thermister only removes LNB voltage (Crow-bars the current) supplied to the LNB coax when LNB current exceeds the spec of the thermister.
 
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