AMIKO Trouble finding Satellites

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Okay, I installed the HH 120 but I am still in the same boat. I've been busy with work and the weather has been wet, so I just yesterday was able to go up on the roof.

My question is should I be setting the dish to the specific elevation angle or to where the signal is strongest? Or would the proper angle be the same as the peak signal?? I want to track the arc properly instead of focusing on just one sat.

And I can't get wifi to work at all on this Amiko. I press the red button and it just says "No wireless device exist". The manual is no help. It doesn't mention at all whether wifi is built in or whether I need a usb wifi dongle.
 
Captain Midnight said:
The manual is no help. It doesn't mention at all whether wifi is built in or whether I need a usb wifi dongle.
Click to expand...
It needs a wifi dongle. I have a question though, what do you need Wi-Fi for on the Amiko?
 
Maybe you need to do like I tell most. Remove the motor and LEARN how the system and FTA works before jumping to a motor.
If you follow my guide to a T it should get you going....unless you are still fuzzy on some things of FTA.
You can always read the guide attached this post also. It is way more detailed than mine:
How To Install a USALS Motor - Condensed Version
 
A quick look at this chart will explain why it is necessary to align the pole and dish exactly. You can see how it's possible to hit some satellites but not all of them by being just a bit off up, down, east, west, or in declination. There are no shortcuts if you want to track the whole arc but it all starts with a sturdy, plumb, pole.

disharc2.jpg
 
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I thought wifi might help download EPG info?
I've read and followed the guide. My pole is plumb. It shouldn't be this difficult to get some satellites pulled in. I bought a GT media V8 handheld finder to help with pointing and tuning the dish on the roof. It finds the 101w satellite just fine, yet the Amiko will not. Could that be a transponder needing to be added into the Amiko for 101w?
 
Captain Midnight said:
My question is should I be setting the dish to the specific elevation angle or to where the signal is strongest? Or would the proper angle be the same as the peak signal?? I want to track the arc properly instead of focusing on just one sat.
Click to expand...

This is what I am really looking for an answer. My dish has a mount that isn't skewable. I don't think I can make it work without either buying a motor or rigging a new skew mount for it. Since I am wanting a motorized dish anyway, I figured it would be better to go right into motorizing my dish. I have 4 supports to keep it plumb, but if necessary, I have a pipe I can plant and mount into the ground.
 
Captain Midnight said:
I thought wifi might help download EPG info?
Click to expand...
No very much EPG info in NA and Wi-Fi will not help with that, it all comes from the satellite.
Like I said you need to slow down and get a better grasp of how all this works, it will make the motor go much easier.
 
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Captain Midnight said:
This is what I am really looking for an answer. My dish has a mount that isn't skewable. I don't think I can make it work without either buying a motor or rigging a new skew mount for it. Since I am wanting a motorized dish anyway, I figured it would be better to go right into motorizing my dish. I have 4 supports to keep it plumb, but if necessary, I have a pipe I can plant and mount into the ground.
Click to expand...
Does anyone have anything to advise on this question? I'm not looking to have my intelligence questioned. I have a good idea of the rudimentary basics. I'm learning as I go. I have heard this is the best place to seek out help, but if all I'm gonna get is the 'start from scratch, noob' routine, I'll go elsewhere. Not really what I expected from fellow HAMs and FTA enthusiasts.
 
Captain Midnight said:
I'm not looking to have my intelligence questioned.
Click to expand...
No one is doing that. Also, no one asked you to start from scratch. Giving insults is not going to get you any where either though.
With an elliptical dish, it really needs to be so you can skew the whole dish. You can try skewing the LNBF like a dish designed for FTA and it will work to a degree, but you will no longer properly illuminate the dish.

Captain Midnight said:
'start from scratch, noob' routine, I'll go elsewhere. Not really what I expected from fellow HAMs and FTA enthusiasts.
Click to expand...
I think you are misunderstanding, no one asked you to start from scratch per se. I have helped hundreds set up and get motors running successfully. What I have found is guys that rush into it get frustrated and aggravated same as you. This is what I am trying to avoid. It is hard to get a dish tracking the arc when you have not set up one before for sure, just like anything in life, if one has never done it.
If you experiment around with a dish for a few weeks, finding a satellite and scanning in channels and learning how to quickly move from one sat to another.... You get a better feel for it.

Another thing, some dishes, especially ones that were never designed for it, are harder to motorize......or at least with say a USALS motor.

Yes, this is one of the best sites to get help in NA and lots of knowledgeable guys here that are actually willing to help, as long as you are willing. :)
 
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KE4EST said:
No one is doing that. Also, no one asked you to start from scratch. Giving insults is not going to get you any where either though.
With an elliptical dish, it really needs to be so you can skew the whole dish. You can try skewing the LNBF like a dish designed for FTA and it will work to a degree, but you will no longer properly illuminate the dish.


I think you are misunderstanding, no one asked you to start from scratch per se. I have helped hundreds set up and get motors running successfully. What I have found is guys that rush into it get frustrated and aggravated same as you. This is what I am trying to avoid. It is hard to get a dish tracking the arc when you have not set up one before for sure, just like anything in life, if one has never done it.
If you experiment around with a dish for a few weeks, finding a satellite and scanning in channels and learning how to quickly move from one sat to another.... You get a better feel for it.

Another thing, some dishes, especially ones that were never designed for it, are harder to motorize......or at least with say a USALS motor.

Yes, this is one of the best sites to get help in NA and lots of knowledgeable guys here that are actually willing to help, as long as you are willing. :)
Click to expand...
Fair enough. Sorry for the frustration post. I am new to getting my hand on experience with FTA after a year of solid reading and getting hyped on FTA. I am thankful for what I am receiving. And I am about to start taking down C band dish one of two that nearby friends/neighbors are letting me have. I only went with the roof mount to get a total view of KU feeds with a short coax line, but i am going to just take a step back and fully open my mind. I am having trouble with reading the angle on the dish mount, and that is probably my weak link to making the dish track incorrectly.
 
Yes, if it is possible, it much better to mount it on a pole concreted in the ground. :) I know some people can't do that, just like some hams can't put up a 80 meter dipole outside stretched up 60 feet.
 
Okay, I have good news. I started from scratch by flash burning my receiver and starting with finding 91W with USALS. What I did wrong was my pole was plumb but the motor mount was just a tad off on the pole. I leveled it out and actually got it facing perfect south. It was about 1-2 degrees off to the east...

So once I did that, everything fell into place! I now have 87w-125w with strong signals. My motor shaft has a little play, so on the outer edge sats, I started with USALS and fine tuned them with DisEqC 1.2 positioning, per the setup guide.
Thanks for the advice. And I want to apologise again for taking things out of context.
 
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For what it's worth, setting up one of those little HH motors on most badly marked KU dishes can cause a tee-totaler to become a hard drinking man, lol.

As you now know, being off even the width of a pencil in any direction can cause a lot of issues.

Good job, and don't make the mistake of deciding that: "maybe I'll just make a tiny little MORE tweak, and see if I can get even a better signal". At least NOT without making some marks before changing things, so you can always go back to what you had...
 
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primestar31 said:
For what it's worth, setting up one of those little HH motors on most badly marked KU dishes can cause a tee-totaler to become a hard drinking man, lol.

As you now know, being off even the width of a pencil in any direction can cause a lot of issues.

Good job, and don't make the mistake of deciding that: "maybe I'll just make a tiny little MORE tweak, and see if I can get even a better signal". At least NOT without making some marks before changing things, so you can always go back to what you had...
Click to expand...
You are dang right! This Primestar dish just is terribly marked. I had trouble with deciding on the elevation angle since I noticed that when I was on the upper and lower limits of the proper angle, the signal would peak out before falling out completely. I finally found it by setting the angle that worked best for 87w and 125w. Everything else balanced out.
 
After using a GT Media V8 finder, I must say I really like the Amiko even more. This box is just really well designed and setup for fast responsiveness and overall an easier UI. It makes it worth toting my little 19" TV and extension cord up to the roof.
 
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Good luck finding a V-box anywhere, they stopped making them years ago. As for the ASC-1, IF you are really going to install a c-band dish in the near future, you better buy one immediately. They'll all be gone soon (if not already), and then there won't be any more.

Worst gets to worst, you can always build your own simple manual mover with a 30volt DC power supply, and a switch or switches to flip polarity and move either direction. Or even use an older positioner/combo positioner-receiver made way back in the day. IF you end up going that route, make SURE it can work with a newer REED SWITCH style motor, and not just an older potentiometer style positioner motor that we used to have.
 
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Captain Midnight said:
My next step is to get a C-BAND BUD system up. Any opinions on best movers? I've heard basically the choice is down to a V-Box or the ASC-1.
Click to expand...
ASC1 is out of production EOL, grab one if you can. The VBox is not sold in the US right now, so choices are not good presently.

* primestar31 beat me to it ;)
 

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