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So that's all I did - rotate it so the reed switch is level. Now it works fine. No changes to the wiring were necessary.

The sensor wires are shielded (until they enter the motor box) and in a different cable than the power. I could wrap them in aluminum foil in the box So what you are saying is that my 18" actuator is a new (very old stock) unit and the magnet is nearly dead? Unfortunately I threw away my old...

Where can I order a decent actuator? I don't wan't to order from TEK 2000. Has anyone here had any experience with www.satellitesuperstore.com ? They are in the UK and shipping an actuator overseas could be very expensive.

Below is a photo of the back of the actuator. I could twist the last few inches of the sensor wires, but I noticed that the mfr. didn't even bother to do the same with the black and purple wires going to the reed switch. I am probably going to order a new actuator, but not until I get a working...

My first motor was a Super Jack and it lasted about 16 years. I had to work on it twice during that time. It was a victim of being outdoors in the sun and rain. I replaced it in October with a 18 " Venture actuator. (Hey, I had no idea it was so bad). The eBay seller I got it from hasn't...

I assume the you mean 0.1 uF ? Will see if I can find one among my electronic parts. Yes, the cable does have a ground wire in addition to the two signal wires. Didn't have to ground it to the GBox with my Super Jack, but its worth a try. ... One other possibility: Is an 18" linear actuator...

A few months ago I purchased a new Venture actuator to replace the broken Super Jack on my 10' Unimesh. It's powered by a GBox, which never lost count with the previous motor. When I say 'lost count' or 'position changing', I mean that if I move away from any given satellite and come back, it...

Glad your dish didn't get damaged. I am wondering if its better to leave the dish slightly loose on the pole so that if high winds come again, it will let the dish move and lessen the force on the dish. Rather have it spin than get bent! During our early Feb. 4th windstorm there were thousands...

Today I switched the feed on my 10' dish from L-Band (GOES-18 weather satellite) to C-Band. Now I am getting a few transponders above 4100 MHz and not much else. So I spent most of the day trying to fine tune the dish aim. Rechecked the focal distance and the skew. It all was good. .. In...

Exactly. Any frequency with strong local 5G interference will not be watchable.

No, I think you are saying 'filter' instead of 'pass band'. The red filter's pass band is from 3800 and above. So everything above 3800 will be received. Also, filters attenuate ALL signals outside of their pass band. If you filter out interference below 3.8 or 4.0, you also filter out TV...

If all else fails then I would recommend getting a digital level. Tell your receiver to go to a satellite (its position before the storm). Then measure the dish's elevation. See how the measured value compares to what it should be using dishpointer.com. If the two values match then you know...

I would try Mike's ^^^ suggestion first with the connectors. And if the connectors look good then check for voltage between ground and the center conductor. Beyond that, have you checked to see if the dish is bent? Also, is the pole still perfectly vertical from side to side and front to back??

I have had windstorms spin my dish in the past. If you haven't already tried it, one way to fix the alignment is to set the actuator where 101 should be (before the windstorm). Then move the dish east/west until you get 101 peaked. And like you said, no adjustments to your elevation or...

No. When I got the Birdview dish several years ago it did not come with the original rods. Instead, I had to buy new threaded rods at Home Depot that were longer than the original rods. So I cut them to size. It didn't have the original Birdview metal ring either so I ended up cutting a...

In that case I would strongly recommend that you to follow the advice from Titanium's post #37 and my post #48. The reason for your reception problem should become evident. There is nothing wrong with your C138s.

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I think you should try Titanium's suggestion from post #37 Titanium's suggestion will test 3800 to 3980 MHz. If there is terrestrial interference in that frequency range then the only way to get the mux you want would be an RF fence.

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I haven't been able to locate the source of my 5G interference either. But the C138 Performance Plus works fine to eliminate it. ... I'm thinking that the 5G interference is coming from a location closer than the 4G tower, because my 4G signal strength here is only 1-2 bars.

I am receiving 4080V at 12.3 dB here in California. I am using the new and improved version of the Titanium C138 LNBF. Are you using a 5G filtered LNBF?

I have used PB Blaster with good results on old engines to free up the pistons. Should work on those stuck together tubes. Let it soak for a day or so. Then I would apply maximum torque to twist apart those tubes.

I sent you a private message about the C138. It's yours if you want it.

Agreed. With strong interference I think you need the Performance Plus version. That's what I am using now.

My pleasure. I think my 5G problem is greater here than most areas because I am on the side of a hill at a fairly high elevation relative to my surroundings. No one in my home has a 5G phone yet, but I know that my neighbors do. That's OK now because the new C138 squelches their interference. :)