10 Foot Mesh - What Is It?

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Horsepower

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If it is a Unimesh, the screen fits into a slot on both sides of the rib. The problem is getting to the slot at the outer edge of the dish. I have two Unimesh dishes, and they have a lip covering the end of the mesh on the outer edge of the dish. It prevents you from getting to the slots so you can slide new screen into the channel.

As far as I can tell, there's no way to remove the outer edge of the frame to expose the end of the slots. I have a small battery operated reciprocating saw that uses a hack saw blade. I have been kicking around the idea of cutting the lip off the end of the frame to expose the slots. I's not sure why they did it that way because there are two sets of screws that hold the mesh in place.
The mesh is riveted to the outside of the dish. IDK. Might not be a Unimesh.
 
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wvman

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My Winegard Quadstar is the same way. I was able to gently pry open that outer edge lip, and get the mesh out to repair some damage and put it back in. Not fun nor easy to do but it worked.
I'm still debating on the one I'm going to repair. I'm considering removing all the screen and replacing it with rolled aluminum. I can get it off a friend of mine who does continuous gutters. It will have to sheared to make the wedge shape, but I know someone who has a metal break, so that shouldn't be much of a chore.
 

Brct203

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I'm still debating on the one I'm going to repair. I'm considering removing all the screen and replacing it with rolled aluminum. I can get it off a friend of mine who does continuous gutters. It will have to sheared to make the wedge shape, but I know someone who has a metal break, so that shouldn't be much of a chore.
Same here... I have a friend who has the skeleton 8-foot mesh Orbitron. Most of the mesh is gone. I was wondering if I could simply use aluminum flashing that comes in roll. I also have access to a brake, so that would be quite easy. I'm not sure how it would do with the curve though. While mesh is somewhat extensible, obviously aluminum sheet is not extensible without some kind of stamping.

Another big concern is wind... those frames for mesh dishes were not built for a solid "sail"...
 

phlatwound

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...Another big concern is wind... those frames for mesh dishes were not built for a solid "sail"...
I don't know the exact speed but at somewhere around 50 or 60 mph a mesh (or perf) dish has the same resistance to wind as a solid one.

So, if you wanted to put aluminum sheet on a mesh dish skeleton it should handle it, might be a little shakier at lower wind speeds though.
 

wvman

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Same here... I have a friend who has the skeleton 8-foot mesh Orbitron. Most of the mesh is gone. I was wondering if I could simply use aluminum flashing that comes in roll. I also have access to a brake, so that would be quite easy. I'm not sure how it would do with the curve though. While mesh is somewhat extensible, obviously aluminum sheet is not extensible without some kind of stamping.

Another big concern is wind... those frames for mesh dishes were not built for a solid "sail"...
The gutter material is much thicker than flashing. I've never actually did one, but with the slots where the metal slides into, it should follow the curvature of the ribs and be OK. Of course, the metal would have to be cut to exacting specifications in order to keep from buckling the metal. Being a solid panel, the signal quality should be slightly higher over mesh due to the smooth surface and no holes.

On a dish where the mesh lays on top of the ribs instead of in a slot, the job would be easier since you don't have to fight to keep the panels inside the slots. I have a 7-1/2 footer with some messed up mesh, and it's going to be a project for summer. I've been wanting to try it for some time, and if I decide to fully retire, I'll need something to keep me occupied anyway. :)
 

wvman

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yes that makes sense... I had not thought of that...

and yes I agree that gutter stock is thicker than flashing...
It's pretty tough stuff, stands up to hail much better than flashing. Last time I checked, I could get it for about a dollar a foot, but on bigger dishes, above 7 1/2 or 8 foot, it's not wide enough, at least what they normally keep on hand. I guess they could order wider widths. When I get around to playing with this project, I'll post the results. It's just a play toy right now. :)
 

Horsepower

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Been a while guys. Here is an update. This is the other dish. Decided to get it while the lady's yard is dry.
 
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Horsepower

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I never could get the dang button hook to loosen up so I could remove it for transport. Had a buddy with a wide trailer lined up to help me get it home tomorrow. I decided to take a pipe cutter and cut the back side down (of the button hook ) so the thing would lie flat in the trailer. I tilted one side up so I could brace it off to get underneath it. CRACK! the whole thing broke right down the middle, fell in 2 pieces, then one side of that broke nearly in 2. I took that apart then took the other half apart.
 
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Horsepower

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But, I ain't licked yet. As many sorry boats as I have resurrected this should be no big deal.

And yes, including the F-up, I did it all by myself.
 

(((Garyd)))

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If there's no name, it's knockoff of channel master dish How are you going to put it together again, I see all the plastic broke, if it's a good one it's fiberglass the cheap ones where plastic with a thin layer of mesh embedded, in the reflector
Just look at the parts that are broke no fiber material its knockoff that's a vonwise there also
Plus I think the real ones used SS bolts that would not rust up, which I assume it's broken apart
 
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