10 ft dish working again after 30 years

Need2learn

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That might be true if you are talking about junk Chinese LNBF's. But you get what you pay for. I find Titanium LNBF's to work even better than my Norsat 8115's I used to use.


I guess a Norsat 8115, put it against what I got Norsat 3220 a high end LNB, using a Bullseye II, where is the ku band on that LNBF?
 

telstar_1

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There is no advantage in the choice of paint color. Some prefer grey, others prefer black and some like camouflage. Just be sure to use a flat vs glossy paint to prevent the sunlight reflection into the feedhorn.

A button hook that is in good mechanical condition and centered on the reflector is easier to fine tune than a feed supported by 3 or 4 legs. Some prefer buttonhooks and others prefer legs. No right or wrong. No better or worse. As long as the feedhorn is stable, centered and adjustable.
Isn't solar radiation only an issue at times with the focus of the dish comes into direct alignment with both the satellite and the sun- during a single week in March and in October? This results in the wipeout of c-band signals for at most a few minutes in mid-afternoon. On analog it could be seen on-screen as light sparklies (loss of signal) creeping in, worsening to unviewable, then back to light and then gone. AKA Solar Transit Effect. No differences in painting of dish will prevent the interference, OR cause it to happen outside of the small windows in spring & fall. However, it may be noted that a highly polished reflective surface such as stainless steel, which some early c-band dishes were made from, can produce such an efficient radiation transfer, during the Solar Transit, as to melt feed components. This is of course what thermal solar generation is based on, a large reflector focused on a smaller heat-absorbing element.

As to buttonhooks, some preferred the look, but they have to be built stoutly to be stable. Some were guyed with cables, which kind of defeats it a bit. They can also be easier to deal with in adjusting the distance of the feed from the dish. An argument for struts is that they don't block as much signal from getting to the feed- the buttonhook blocks some of the reflected, concentrated signal from reaching the feed, while the struts present a smaller signal-blocking profile and don't interfere with reflected signal at all.
 

Brct203

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Dec 24, 2016
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Well I finally got my 10 ft mesh dish back together and working.Put a new C-band LNBF C1W-PLL lite Wideband 3.4 - 4.2GHz that I got from Brian and it works very well.Really pleased.Even watched a little bit of Green Acres on Galaxy 17.Still have some more tinkering do do with it but it is 95% there.Need about 200 feet of good coax to run to the house now.Even have a few pictures of the final resting place for this old dish.Love this new hobby!Thanks!
Nice dish! I see that you're in Eastern Canada. How far east are you able to "see" with that dish? Wondering it you tried to scan some of the Atlantic satellites that are often too low for the rest of us (like 11W or 3W). Note that they would require the dielectric plate in the LNBF.
 
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primestar31

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Nice dish! I see that you're in Eastern Canada. How far east are you able to "see" with that dish? Wondering it you tried to scan some of the Atlantic satellites that are often too low for the rest of us (like 11W or 3W). Note that they would require the dielectric plate in the LNBF.

I don't think you'll get a reply. His userid has a slash through it, and I suspect that means he's no longer with us for some reason.
 
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madmadworld

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That might be true if you are talking about junk Chinese LNBF's. But you get what you pay for. I find Titanium LNBF's to work even better than my Norsat 8115's I used to use.

I tried a C-2 it was nowhere near as good as my 8115's or other ortho's setup's I use. as it should for a $300 feed.
The C-2 was better than other LNBF'S I've tested for sure.
 

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