1000.4 to 1000.2 LNBF conversion

bobvick

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Jul 20, 2006
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I am not sure if anyone else has posted anything like this before or not. I prefer the 1000.4 dish to the 1000.2. Since I am going to have to go back to one dish from three for the DPH LNBF, I got to thinking about how to convert the 1000.4 to where the yoke and LNBF that works on the 1000.2 would work on the 1000.4. The arm of the 1000.2 will fit into the arm of the 1000.4. What I did was, was to cut off about 8" or so of the arm of an old original Dish 1000 that I had laying around. I had to drill two holes through one end for the little tabs on the 1000.2 yoke to go through. After that, I shortened the end of the 1000.4 arm so that it was about 17" long (cut off 2") and left 2" of the old 1000 arm sticking out, this kept the length of the arm 19" which should keep the focal distance the same as it was on the 1000.4. I have not had time to try it out yet, and my DPH LNBF hasn't arrived yet. I will update this thread, and try not the 1000.2 and modified 1000.4 on the WA to see what the difference in signal strength is, if any. Note, the red primer on the arm is only temporary. I didn't want it to rust so, all I could find was red primer to cover where I had cut. Not sure if I'll paint the dish black or leave it gray.
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This has been on my mind. I use a 1k4 wa and would like to keep it when I upgrade to the h3.

I was thinking of a way to rig a 1k2 yoke on to the 1k4. Love how you did this, it's genius. Gonna give it a try this week.
 
I did my conversion this afternoon from a 1k4 wa lnb to a 1k2 wa lnb on a 1000.4 dish.

1k4 2.jpg 1k4.jpg

It was pretty simple to fit the hardware but was aggravating regarding signal. At 1st I just went back and forth from the dish to the tv checking signal. After about 3 trips I thought you dummy why don't you just grab your super buddy.

Without a doubt I don't believe I could of done it without a meter. The focal point is further in towards the dish than what you would think. I don't recall exactly but want to say around 2" closer compared to the original arm. The elevation had to drop a little also. The azimuth didn't make any difference and did not mess with the tilt.

Am a little disappointed that I couldn't match the same signal or better, but think they are a tad better than a 1k2 dish. I may put up a 1k2 to compare to this rig.

Here's what I ended up with:

1k4 WA lnb
110 TP 11 signal 69 TP 18 signal 68
119 TP 11 signal 72 TP 18 signal 75
129 TP 11 signal 46 TP 18 signal 57
1k2 WA lnb
110 TP 11 signal 71 TP 18 signal 67
119 TP 11 signal 67 TP 18 signal 65
129 TP 11 signal 41 TP 18 signal 53


Thanks bobvick for the idea.
 
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I did my conversion this afternoon from a 1k4 wa lnb to a 1k2 wa lnb on a 1000.4 dish.

So from what you're saying, I'm gathering that the new yoke piece and the new hybrid LNB piece can fit over the arm of both a 1k4 and a 1k2?

I'm just trying to figure out if there's any way I can keep my 1k4 dish EA, but replace the old EA LNB at the end with the new Hybrid EA LNB for the Hopper 3 setup. I'd rather not have to go through the process of having to buy another 1k2 dish if I can just save all that time and money by only replacing the LNB.

Also, you said you use a Super Buddy. Are these meters expensive to buy?
 
I did my conversion this afternoon from a 1k4 wa lnb to a 1k2 wa lnb on a 1000.4 dish.

View attachment 113179 View attachment 113180

It was pretty simple to fit the hardware but was aggravating regarding signal. At 1st I just went back and forth from the dish to the tv checking signal. After about 3 trips I thought you dummy why don't you just grab your super buddy.

Without a doubt I don't believe I could of done it without a meter. The focal point is further in towards the dish than what you would think. I don't recall exactly but want to say around 2" closer compared to the original arm. The elevation had to drop a little also. The azimuth didn't make any difference and did not mess with the tilt.

Am a little disappointed that I couldn't match the same signal or better, but think they are a tad better than a 1k2 dish. I may put up a 1k2 to compare to this rig.

Here's what I ended up with:

1k4 WA lnb
110 TP 11 signal 69 TP 18 signal 68
119 TP 11 signal 72 TP 18 signal 75
129 TP 11 signal 46 TP 18 signal 57
1k2 WA lnb
110 TP 11 signal 71 TP 18 signal 67
119 TP 11 signal 67 TP 18 signal 65
129 TP 11 signal 41 TP 18 signal 53


Thanks bobvick for the idea.
It will be the end of the week before I get to try mine out. I'll have to put up a 1000.2 and try it as well to compare. Even if the signal isn't a lot better, the 1000.4 is a sturdier dish for sure.
 
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So from what you're saying, I'm gathering that the new yoke piece and the new hybrid LNB piece can fit over the arm of both a 1k4 and a 1k2?

I'm just trying to figure out if there's any way I can keep my 1k4 dish EA, but replace the old EA LNB at the end with the new Hybrid EA LNB for the Hopper 3 setup. I'd rather not have to go through the process of having to buy another 1k2 dish if I can just save all that time and money by only replacing the LNB.

Also, you said you use a Super Buddy. Are these meters expensive to buy?
The 1000.2 arm will fit inside the 1000.4 arm, you have to cut the 1000.4 arm and a piece of the 1000.2 arm and insert it inside the 1000.4, you need to keep the length to 19". A SuperBuddy will run you probably around $300-$400 off or eBay.
 
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I did my conversion this afternoon from a 1k4 wa lnb to a 1k2 wa lnb on a 1000.4 dish.

View attachment 113179 View attachment 113180

It was pretty simple to fit the hardware but was aggravating regarding signal. At 1st I just went back and forth from the dish to the tv checking signal. After about 3 trips I thought you dummy why don't you just grab your super buddy.

Without a doubt I don't believe I could of done it without a meter. The focal point is further in towards the dish than what you would think. I don't recall exactly but want to say around 2" closer compared to the original arm. The elevation had to drop a little also. The azimuth didn't make any difference and did not mess with the tilt.

Am a little disappointed that I couldn't match the same signal or better, but think they are a tad better than a 1k2 dish. I may put up a 1k2 to compare to this rig.

Here's what I ended up with:

1k4 WA lnb
110 TP 11 signal 69 TP 18 signal 68
119 TP 11 signal 72 TP 18 signal 75
129 TP 11 signal 46 TP 18 signal 57
1k2 WA lnb
110 TP 11 signal 71 TP 18 signal 67
119 TP 11 signal 67 TP 18 signal 65
129 TP 11 signal 41 TP 18 signal 53


Thanks bobvick for the idea.
My 1k2 WA setup has about the same numbers as your conversion, give or take, except 110 TP 18 is lower as it is a Spotbeam.
 
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My 1k2 WA setup has about the same numbers as your conversion, give or take, except 110 TP 18 is lower as it is a Spotbeam.

I appreciate you posting this, have been wondering how it compares to the 1k2 dish.

Probably will just leave it the way it is now knowing it's similar. May try to fine tune it again after I put a dph lnb on there to see if it makes any difference.
 
I appreciate you posting this, have been wondering how it compares to the 1k2 dish.

Probably will just leave it the way it is now knowing it's similar. May try to fine tune it again after I put a dph lnb on there to see if it makes any difference.
I like the 1000.4 because it is a sturdier built dish (seems to me at least) that's probably why they quit making them :) I see you are in East Tennessee, are you close to Knoxville? I am in NW Alabama about 50 miles due south of Florence, I imagine that we will probably have similar signal strengths. I will post what I get when I get mine up.
 
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I appreciate you posting this, have been wondering how it compares to the 1k2 dish.

Probably will just leave it the way it is now knowing it's similar. May try to fine tune it again after I put a dph lnb on there to see if it makes any difference.
I put that dish up there about 10 years or so ago with me being on the ladder, hand on the dish, phone in the pocket on speaker and the wife reading numbers off the screen at the other end of the house. LOL
 
I see you are in East Tennessee, are you close to Knoxville?

Northeast from there, Tri cities TN/VA Dma. Will be interesting to see what you signal strengths you come up with.

I can't order the dph yet, patiently waiting for the green light at this point.

Edit*
I can order the dph but waiting for the green light on the h3, less shipping.
 
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Northeast from there, Tri cities TN/VA Dma. Will be interesting to see what you signal strengths you come up with.

I can't order the dph yet, patiently waiting for the green light at this point.

Edit*
I can order the dph but waiting for the green light on the h3, less shipping.
Yeah I can't wait until the H3 and my DPH LNBF get here. Since we're both hillbillies I'm surprised you hadn't already figured out a way to convert your 1004 :) you know us hillbillies always figure out a way to rig something up where it will work.
 
I have a 1000.4 dish that I would like to try this on since the 1000.4 is a stronger dish and adjusting it is easier. What is the extra length sticking out of the 1000.4 dish arm? Thank you so much...
 
I have a 1000.4 dish that I would like to try this on since the 1000.4 is a stronger dish and adjusting it is easier. What is the extra length sticking out of the 1000.4 dish arm? Thank you so much...
You're replying to a 2016 thread, but if you provide a little more detail about what you want to accomplish, I can probably sort it out for you. I regularly use both 1000.4 and 1000.2 LNB's on my portable 1000.4 dish. A simple adapter mod is all that's needed.
 
I didn't realize that the thread was that old...
What I would like to do is use my 1000.4 dish with the hopper 3. I was told that I have to use the 1000.2 dish with the newer LNB, s that that system uses? I was hoping that there was a way I could use my currert dish (1000.4) instead. but I wasn't sure of how-to mod it correctly.... Thank you so much..
 
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I didn't realize that the thread was that old...
What I would like to do is use my 1000.4 dish with the hopper 3. I was told that I have to use the 1000.2 dish with the newer LNB, s that that system uses? I was hoping that there was a way I could use my currert dish (1000.4) instead. but I wasn't sure of how-to mod it correctly.... Thank you so much..
There are two easy ways to keep using your 1000.4 dish with Hopper 3. The "no mod" way would be to use your existing DPP LNB with the addition of a DPH42 switch that basically converts the LNB output to the hybrid format the H3 needs. A downstream Solo or Duo Node would also need to be swapped for a compatible hub.

The other option would be to use a standard hybrid LNB (not the newer Slimline LNB) with a modified plastic adapter. The mod takes just a couple of minutes with a utility knife or other cutting tool. The photos below show the simple adapter mod before and after. If you're swapping LNB's on an existing aimed dish, some minor repointing will be needed to peak the signals.

Here's the standard 1K4 adapter:
1K4-adapter.jpg


And here's the modified 1K4 adapter:
1K4-adapter-mod.jpg
 
There are two easy ways to keep using your 1000.4 dish with Hopper 3. The "no mod" way would be to use your existing DPP LNB with the addition of a DPH42 switch that basically converts the LNB output to the hybrid format the H3 needs. A downstream Solo or Duo Node would also need to be swapped for a compatible hub.

The other option would be to use a standard hybrid LNB (not the newer Slimline LNB) with a modified plastic adapter. The mod takes just a couple of minutes with a utility knife or other cutting tool. The photos below show the simple adapter mod before and after. If you're swapping LNB's on an existing aimed dish, some minor repointing will be needed to peak the signals.

Here's the standard 1K4 adapter:
View attachment 158280

And here's the modified 1K4 adapter:
View attachment 158281
That's a pretty simple adapt!
 

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