Diagnosis and testing by the "Net-erinarian".
The problem sounds like a bad receiver. NOT LNB.
It works something like this:
When the other receiver is hooked up, it is the one that powers the LNB and the "bad one" feeds a little off of that voltage, giving it partial, or inconsistent results.
Proper troubleshooting would have us check these things, before writing off the receiver as "deceased".
Diagnosis:
1. You've got a bad receiver. The voltage is low, dead, or inconsistent.
Or,
2. You're plugged into a Monster power product. And,
3. You may not be testing the patient correctly.
Prescription: (From least intrusive to most intrusive, or easiest to rule-out, to hardest, or, in basic troubleshooting order.)
1. Check power source.
Procedure:Take a look at into what and where, the receiver is plugged.
Treatment: Bypass any Monster power product, power conditioners to surge protectors, no matter how much you spent.
Prognosis: Once plugged into an alternative power source, strip, wall, etc. the patient should perk right up and you'll see all the color come back (picture).
2. Check in-wall wiring.
Procedure: Use a $5 plug-in type wiring checking device. Plug into wall.
Note the lights that light up, and match them to the key.
Verify wiring is correct. No opens or crosses.
Treatment: Requires specialist (Electrician).
3. Do a smart-card reset (if applicable).
If your receiver is an elderly patient, he will have a smart card. You should always do a "smart-card reset", if there is one.
Procedure: While the receiver is on, pull the smart card out, and re-insert. Wait for "acquiring satellite" message to run "Check Switch".
Always remember to do a smart-card reset after re-connection, and before "check switch"!
NOTE: An "unplug" reset and a "front-panel" or "hard" reset are both suggested as early "de-buggers", BUT, concerning receivers with smart cards, MOST of the time, if not always, you NEED a smart-card reset before they will recognize a new satellite - and sometimes even the usual ones.
Prognosis: View results of "Check Switch" to determine the prognosis.
4. Check the patient.
A. Swap Test (You must use a known good receiver for reliable results.)
Procedure: Move the "well" receiver to the location of the sick patient.
Plug in, attach wires, perform smartcard reset, then "check switch".
Prognosis: If the "well" patient has no problems at the new location, then the other receiver is bad.
B. Voltage "back-feed" measurement.
Procedure: Uses a voltmeter and a piece of coaxial cable.
1. Cut a piece of RG6 coaxial cable that has an F-81 fitting on one end.
2. On the cut end, strip back two or three inches of the outer cable covering, exposing the "braid".
NOTE: The braid is indeed the shielding, but it is also the "other" cable in a co-axial cable (two cables traversing the same axis). It is an electrical conductor and we are going to use it to pass current as it does normally. The braid is the negative or ground portion of your circuit, (ground loop) the copper center cable is the positive (signal) portion of your circuit.
3. Pull the braid away from the the white center insulator (dielectric).
Installer Tip: You might use the "hook" part of Velcro to "comb" it away from the dielectric. (A small piece on your stripping tool will do wonders.)
You will want to twist this braid into "one" twisted cable to which you will attach, or touch, to one electrode of a volt-meter.
4. Expose enough of the copper center wire to attach, or touch, to the other voltmeter electrode.
5. Connect the F-81 connector to the "Sat-In" port on the receiver.
6. Using a voltmeter, determine back-feed voltage reading(s).
You should read either 13v, 18v, or alternating between the two.
For more:
Solid Signal
Highdef Jeff
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