54.0 Remote will work everything except H3 . . .

[SandFarmer]

. . . and yes I have pressed the SAT button on the Left Side. Did that many times off the top and all the lights light up as they should. Pressed the "Input" button and nothing there either. For close to a year that remote with necessary battery changes, many be one, ran the H3, TV & Soundbar. Last night it stopped working the H3 only. Checked the batteries and they show 100% on the DISH meter and my battery tester. We have an older remote, can't remember the model number, it has been in another room and works great. I tried to unlink the 54 with it and it would not "Locate" or "Unlink". It seems as if it's perfectly fine, it just won't operate the H3.

Any ideas . . . .
. . . thanks

 

[DWS44]

For kicks, have you tried a reboot of the H3 to see if that might correct the problem? Sounds like you already tried taking the batteries out of the remote, but maybe try that as well, if you haven't.

 

[Jon J]

You might try re-pairing the remote.

 

[ChadT41]

Think I was talking to you on the other side. See if anyone here has the deprogram sequence to unlink it.

 

[ChadT41]

Think I was talking to you on the other side. See if anyone here has the deprogram sequence to unlink it.

 

[charlesrshell]

Think I was talking to you on the other side. See if anyone here has the deprogram sequence to unlink it.

Try this out.
To Manually Unpair 50.0, 52.0, and 54.0 Remote Control
1. Press and hold the SAT mode button until all mode lights on the top of the remote light up.
2. Press and hold HOME and GUIDE at the same time for 5 seconds.
If successful, you will hear three descending tones.

 

[SandFarmer]

Try this out.
To Manually Unpair 50.0, 52.0, and 54.0 Remote Control
1. Press and hold the SAT mode button until all mode lights on the top of the remote light up.
2. Press and hold HOME and GUIDE at the same time for 5 seconds.
If successful, you will hear three descending tones.

There we go that's the code.

Thanks all, but in the meantime a strange turn of events. I went to the TV that uses the remote and used it to turn on the TV by pressing the TV button to make sure I wasn't doing anything "general". Just wanted to turn on the TV to see where things were prior to a Red Button Reboot. Once on there was a sleep screen saver was on the screen. I went to turn on the DVR itself by first pressing the SAT button, then I would press the power button. When I pressed the SAT button the remote quickly did the three tone link noise and now it's linked and working. <insert null bewilderment here>

Looks like things, the DVR, needed to sit overnight. Maybe even the "Nightly Reboot", which around here can be anytime of the day when you want to watch the thing, was what did it? That's the only thing that I had not done previously. But being "unlinked" the strange thing was that the stats for the remote were on the "Diagnostics" page. And once linked again there was no change. <insert "Twilight Zone" theme here>

When things go wonky with DISH gear the "fix" or "outcome" never surprises me. I hope by this thread anyone in the future who may encounter this problem at least gets some info, the "Delink Code" and a direction other than what I found.

Thanks all for replying and trying to help!! We did create a thread that may give someone else "Food for Thought".

 

[SandFarmer]

Think I was talking to you on the other side. See if anyone here has the deprogram sequence to unlink it.

"On the "other side"?!!" That sounds so perfectly ominous. Thanks for trying to help . . . from "The Other Side"!!"

 

[ChadT41]

Lol. No prob. The manual delink may save Dish a lot of money to Dish is shipping replacement remotes. I know when I worked there, before they posted the sequence, I made the recommendation for agents to use. Dropped the amount of remotes I was sending out to customers over 50%. Sometimes, it just takes a little bit of work(knowledge). Lol. That was with the 40.0, mind you.

 

[SandFarmer]

Lol. No prob. The manual delink may save Dish a lot of money to Dish is shipping replacement remotes. I know when I worked there, before they posted the sequence, I made the recommendation for agents to use. Dropped the amount of remotes I was sending out to customers over 50%. Sometimes, it just takes a little bit of work(knowledge). Lol. That was with the 40.0, mind you.

Lord do I remember the "Ship a New One" at the drop of a hat days. I have, or had, I given many away, a suitcase full of a lot of every remote they have had. Techs have even marveled at the collection. Should I start a museum? I even have a Ziplock Baggy full of "Keys" OF WHICH I saw on ebay a bag of a couple going for a ton of money. Had to stare at that one for a while out of disbelief. And in thinking I'd might need a replacement for this one, I went to the box that my second H3 came in from Solid Signal for any paperwork that might have to do with replacing remotes and in just moving it I heard a rattle and felt a little weight in it. Low and behold, there was a second remote in there. <insert Major Surprise and Happiness here> So I have a spare of the 54's along with the other older RFs that will work with the H3. "It's a Win/Win!!"

Now a new riddle: "I have seen in the "Diagnostics" page that the remotes that look and are marked the same have different "Hardware" numbers. What's the difference between a "SW04" and a "UW05" both with the same model and FW numbers?"

 

[SandFarmer]

AND I have found an Easter Egg of sorts. If you tell the remote to "turn off", the box goes to sleep instantly and once, just once it turned off my TV. Which I really would like an option to be able to turn on that will turn the TV off with the box. I remember some talk here about that, but I want the TV to go off with the box. So when I tell Alexa, what of her there is left these days, "Goodnight" and she turns off the Hopper and dims all the lights, that the TV goes off via the Hopper since the Samsung SmartThings app is failing. Seems like a lot of things these days are breaking or just not working right . . .