5lnb dish install

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AND.... if you read through a lot of the threads you will see plenty of people that did that now claiming they are having twisting and wobbling issues and regretting the original decision. It may take a few weeks or months to get to that point, but it will. I am more than sure there are many more that also end up in that same boat but will never come back to say so.

Also, 2" is a fairly standard size.
 
Are you planning on doing the entire install yourself? I would THINK that if you were a brand-new customer, the installation would be FREE. And speaking from a technicians standpoint, most HSP's/DMA's probably carry the 2" pole standard on their vans. I would think if you were to do most of the cable runs and dig the hole (36" is sufficient), the technician would be MORE than happy!! And depending on his/her regulations, the "messenger" wire that was attached to your other dish, is probably mandatory... and depending on who you ask, might be better for your system, as this is what "grounds" your satellite dish.

I like to make sure that it is done right so I prefer to set the pole and run the cable for a clean install.
 
1 and 7/8 CAN be used but it's a pain in the ass because the Az/El collar won't tighten onto it without being shimmed somehow, or drilling self-tapping metal screws through the collar and pole to keep the dish from turning.

How hard is that ?
Not a pain in the a** at all.
Took all of about :30 seconds.
Other option, mount it on the roof.
 
I'm in michigan. I will sink 42" for frost line. Should I do this.

I'm in NW Ohio,
I placed a 16' pole when I first got my AT-9 about a year and a half ago, no problems. I sunk mine 30" and left like 13 to work with, mine sits about 4 ft over the roof line .
Place a bolt thru the bottom and concrete it, make sure it's plumb and you should be good.

Jimbo
 
I'm in NW Ohio,
I placed a 16' pole when I first got my AT-9 about a year and a half ago, no problems. I sunk mine 30" and left like 13 to work with, mine sits about 4 ft over the roof line .
Place a bolt thru the bottom and concrete it, make sure it's plumb and you should be good.

Jimbo

Thanks jimbo. I am goining to do what you did by using the self tapping screw. I talked with some other installers on other sites and they said 2"OD would be nice but they run into poles that are 1 7/8 often and do the same thing with no problems. I was wondering if I got some flat stock and made some shims would this also work?
 
I bought a 10” piece of muffler pipe that has an ID of 1 7/8 and the OD is 2”. I am going to slip this onto the 1 7/8 sch40 pipe I bought and weld it on. This should work pretty well.
 
The pipe schedule simply refers to the pipe's wall thickness. The higher the schedule, the thicker the pipe's wall. The term is not specific to plumbing, it is a standard rating information.

Not all pipe of the same OD or ID will have the same wall thickness or schedule. Higher wall thickness indicates a sturdier construction.

Just because fence or any other supplier or retailer doesn't list it, doesn't mean the rating does not exist; they are just not posting all the available information to their consumer.
 
Many fence suppliers have 2 in. OD posts. It isn't schedule 40, that is a plumbing terminology. Here is an online source for heavy-duty steel 2 in. masts: Texas Towers, Steel Masts Page.


I bought 16' and concrete and placed it in a few hours, for under $50.
The 16' post from here would cost me $ 279.
I think I like my idea better :D

Jimbo
 
Schedule 40 is PVC (plastic) pipe.


AGAIN; this is NOT true. SCH40 simply referes to wall thickness; and in this case; ANY material of pipe.

Just one example:

American Pipe - Product Catalog

Aluminum: T6061, Sch 10 & Sch 40
Carbon Steel: Sch 10, Sch 40, Sch 80 Blk. & Galv. CW/ERW
Carbon Steel Stainless: Sch 40, Sch 80 XX-HVY, Sch 160
Cast Iron: No Hub & S.W.
Copper: Type L, K, M ACR Refrigeration Tube
PVC, CPVC: PVC- Sch 40, Sch 80 & CPVC Sch 80 IPS, C-900 SDR35
Stainless Steel: 304, 316, Sch 10, Sch 40 & Sch 80
 
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