It's a plastic jar from Wally World. It came with 1000 assorted cable ties. I cut the threads off and used 3 L brackets to bolt it to three unused threaded holes on the scaler.
Notched it out for the existing bolts and coax.
Whats that covering your LNB? Looks like a jar of some sort to protect the LNB +connectors from the elements! Good Idea!!
The LNBF is going to get very hot in the plastic jar and then it will start frequency drifting and then you wonder why the channels are not coming in.
The LNBF is going to get very hot in the plastic jar and then it will start frequency drifting and then you wonder why the channels are not coming in.
That's exactly what they all had to do to get the LNB centered. Carefully bend the LNB arm you should be fine.Have you guys had to bend the lnb arms to get center focus of your lnb? mine is off so i needed to put a washer (like a shim) on one side of the lnb to center it. i didnt want to try to bend the lnb arms because i thought they might snap. if you needed to adjust to get center focal point please let me know of some ideas. the washer / shim isn't setting tight and is throwing off my signals when the dish moves. thanks guys for any ideas.
To prevent overdrive at the top of the arc, set the actuator
limits (in the receiver) before performing any tuning. If you
happen to overdrive it at the top of the arc - to the short side
(and the dish flops), do not panic; just have someone lift the
dish by the lip while you drive it back using the receiver controls
and then be sure to check the setting of the limits better.
1. Set your elevation to your latitude, like an HH motor.
2. Once your actuator is on the dish, turn the whole assembly east . I suppose ideally, the actuator would be 1/2 extended at the true south point. That way you'd have an equal arc to the east and west. I only approximated it, and mine has turned out fine. I just made sure that at the east end I was beyond the LOS of any birds. Then , use the GBOX to extend the actuator to your approximate south, and you should be fine for true south tuning. [edit] check out the BUD MANUAL in the C-band stickies. I'd read it through, and use the charts for your angles. [/edit]
Probably should have this as a Separate Post?......
Well....here's the way I'm going. Don't know if it's the "Proper Way",but here goes:
Picked up a 2 3/8"( O.D.) Galv. Terminal Post ( Fence)
Burying 4 feet of it and will have 40 inches exposed. Filling the inside of the post with concrete as well.
Now the fun part....
I picked up 2 2 " PVC Couplings
Remove the Ridge in the center of the couplings along with some of the material so that it would slide over pipe easily. Then I had to Grind Flats of the outside diameter to clear the Lock Down Bolt Thread inserts inside.
Located the holes onto the PVC Couplings where the Lock Down Bolts would be and drilled them out.
It takes a while, Dremmel Tool and Sander comes in handy.
@ the highlighted:Arms are located in the second row of bolts holes from the rim . Where DougRuss has his located. I definitely used extra washers, and went out and bought a 4" 7/16th bolt for attaching the actuator to the dish. Had to get longer to get a "straight push" from the actuator. Started working with the actuator and Gbox today. Set my east-west limits. Turned my dish on the pole to the east past my LOS, and then extended to actuator to my true south bird, 87W. Trying to set my elevation and delination angles ( not easy, I'd say), to get more than 2 birds. So far I can get 87W and 91W , but haven't gotten anything else.
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