Actuator arm motor inaccruaracies.

[jibaro29]

I'm so what stomped by the way this actuator( Supper Jack) motor is acting up. If I move the dish from West to East it normally lands were is suppose to. Going from East to West it is always a few clicks off meaning any where from 2 to 5 clicks. I had the same problem with the Powermax 24". So I'm just wondering is pulling more difficult than pushing the dish? It looks to me that I'm not getting the same power going both ways.
It is really annoying when you are trying to get Ku to come in. Anyone having this problem.

 

[FaT Air]

That's a common problem. Go out to the dish and push on it as to retract the actuator, then push the opposite direction. I think you will notice the tube moves in/out. Slop, that's what we call it. Caused by wear on the nut inside that moves the tube. You have accurate tracking in the same direction as you programmed it. It will be off in the opposite direction. Not much can be done other than replace the nut, or live with it. Additional lube, on a new actuator, may be called for upon inspection. Mine is 20+ years old and is a click (of the remote) off in the "other" direction.
EDIT- something I've pondered. what about a counter weight that's enough to retract the actuator when the dish is on the side that its weight will extend the actuator??? Like a brick on a rope that is lifted off the ground by the side of the dish. Haven't tried it, but thought about it.

 

[stanleyjohn]

I have the same problem with my actuator!never found a a fix for it so ive learned to live with it.

 

[Lone Gunman]

Unless you run an actuator with a zero backlash ball screw in it then "slop" is the order of the day. Some polar mounts, like the one on my SAMI dish seem to be less affected by this as the dish pivot point on those is offset about 10 or 12 inches to the opposite side of the actuator mount making the "flop over" point much further to the East. With the normal "centered" pivot polar mount the flop over point is around your due south satellite.

As others have said, you can put a new nut in but it will still have some measurable "slop", or, you can learn to live with it like the rest of us.

 

[jibaro29]

As far as I can see there is no "slop". This actuator is brand new. Before my Powermax died I could see that being a problem. I'm going to try Fat Air's suggestion and see where that takes me.

 

[Pixl]

I use a couple of bungee cords across my actuator to keep the slop to one side.

 

[T4Runner]

In the short time I've had my 7.5ft operating, I just go one more satellite past and then back and it always pops in clear...

 

[jibaro29]

I do that once in a while with Cband. Is little more difficult with Ku. You see I'm using the DMX741 and for must part is working out for me. I get decent Ku signal. Almost as good as my 1M. My Solomend, for some odd reason will not accept USALS. I'm sure its just a glitch since it was working just fine before.

PixL: I'm using one bungee cord and it looks like it has made some improvement. Maybe I need to add one more.

 

[stanleyjohn]

I use a couple of bungee cords across my actuator to keep the slop to one side.

Bungee cord! Interesting!! Anyone have a pic of how you hook it up??

 

[Pixl]

Bungee cord! Interesting!! Anyone have a pic of how you hook it up??

Here is a photo I had of my hand crank dish. Look closely you can just barely see it.

 

[cracklincrotch]

I had an issue with slop recently. What fixed it for me was going over all the nuts and bolts and I found that the bolt connecting the actuator to the back of the dish was loose, along with the declination adjustment rod was loose as well. After tightening those up the slop was gone.

 

[Pixl]

I had an issue with slop recently. What fixed it for me was going over all the nuts and bolts and I found that the bolt connecting the actuator to the back of the dish was loose, along with the declination adjustment rod was loose as well. After tightening those up the slop was gone.

I'm sure this the correct way to address this, I remember reading in here one member posted instructions to cut open the older actuators and replace the worn nut, then weld it shut. My bungee solution is a low tech quick fix, but will give you some improvement in the slop issue.