Hi all,
I have a new azbox premium plus HD receiver.
I had problems with my diseq1.2 motor settings, the box was not saving the motor positions so I always got No Signal message. (Sometimes it could work but many many times not). I thought I would downgrade to another FW and when I did that it did not find the internal HDD. I also did a Factory Reset to clean it up.
And after that, it is not starting up! I turn it on and see BOOTING and then CHECKING. And then it only shows CHECKING.
I disconnected the HDD and removed USB flash drive to test and same error. I can't hear the fan, i guess it comes on later?
I tried to put latest FW on flash drive but it's not even reading the patch.bin, patch files.
So now I am stucked with a non-working brand new premium hd plus box. I don't feel so happy so please can somebody give some advice?
Is it possible to do a mega hard reset somehow? I read something about opening the box and reseting something there. Please explain about that!
Thank you for taking the time and I hope for some help soon.
Gustav
Gustav,
Are you familiar with networking, PuTTY, Pumpkin, Filezilla and USB to UART TTL converters? If you are OK with that... Go here: hxxp://forum.azbox-enigma.eu/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=430 and use the "download link" and unzip or unrar it as needed. Follow those instructions. You will need this packaged zip file as it contains the "recovery files" that you will eventually send to the AZBox. This download is not JUST the instructions, it contains everything that you will need.
I am currently working on a better write up for this, as I found some of the instructions misleading.
I can tell you that you need to go to Digi-Key and order this part: 768-1028-ND (oem part TTL-232R-5V) OR 768-1015-ND (oem part TTL-232R-3V3) either one will work. On the UART connector end, you will only use wire colors BLACK (GND), ORANGE (TXD) and YELLOW (RXD). All other leads must be removed. Remove them by taking a sewing needle and very gently pry up the plastic keeper tab while pulling on the lead wire. There is a small spring latch on the pin connector in the plastic housing that catches on the plastic keeper. You just do not want to bend the plastic keeper too far out or it will break off.
Remove ALL the pins from the 6-pin connector. Re-insert only the three that I mention above, but replace them in a different order than what the were originally. Starting from pin #1 (noted by the initials JWT on the housing - but it doesn't matter - you can start at the other end if you like, just count the pins from one to the other in sequence). Pin #1 will now be the ORANGE lead (TXD), pin #2 will be the BLACK lead (GND) and pin #4 will be the YELLOW lead (RXD). Pin locations #3, #5 and #6 will not be used at all.
After you get that completed, plug the USB end into any one of your PC's USB ports and let your PC's hardware wizard search for the driver automatically. If you find something odd like it asks you to locate or setup the driver twice, just go right ahead and do it. When it is all done and you get the message to reboot your computer to completely install the device, proceed with that instruction.
Then, go to your device manager and look up your assigned or active USB ports, CONTROL PANEL > SYSTEM > HARDWARE > DEVICE MANAGER > PORTS (COM & LPT) and look for the port labeled USB SERIAL PORT. Note which COM# it has been assigned and write that down. Right click on that port and click on PROPERTIES, then on PORT SETTINGS and change the BAUD RATE from 9600 to 115200, then click OK and close that. When you get over to the PuTTY FTPF set-up, make sure you change the BAUD rate to 115200 there, too and type in the COM prt # that I told you to write down earlier.
Then, follow the directions in the file that you downloaded. What I have written here will hopefulljust clarify some of the questions you may have regarding the procedure. You will have to follow the procedure for the entiriety.
When it gets to the part regarding having your AZBox connected hardwired to your PC, don't get muddled with that. You can have it hardwired to your PC with a crossover ethernet cable or you can hard wire it through your router or a switch with straight ethernet cables (your computer and your AZBox must be connected hardwired to the router or the switch). Either way is fine, but you cannot use the WiFi connection. That is what they are trying to say.
If it is possible to cleanup your AZBox, you can do it with this procedure. Be careful how you read it. I was a bit confused by the wording, but I have saved you quite a bit of work with the stuff I already wrote above.
I am currently working on a better write up, for us over here in N.A. (sometimes things are lost in the language translation or seem confusing). Since I have followed through with the procedure myself, I can write it up with direct translations. However, I am just getting going on the write up now and I don't have time to finish it today. I think what I present to you will get you on your way, though.
Wishing you much luck! Hope you don't find that you must return it for repair. The box that I have that is stuck here in BOOTING isn't repairable by me via this route. The damage present is bad enough that I cannot take control of the AZBox CPU to get in the back door and correct it.
As I mentioned, I am still in the process of making up a new write-up to help support that already written procedure to help explain it better, but I don't have that done yet and need at least a few days. I just wanted to inform you of the USB-UART TTL adapter that you will want to get on order now as well as finding the software programs that you will need. All the software is FREE and the adapters are quite inexpensive.
RADAR
