I have a 1000 which has had the LNB replaced with something that is not original (dont remember which it is) and it is going into a DPP44 switch with power inserter. I then go out to 2 722's and 1 622 with seperators on each. We had bad weather (but no lighting that I know of) in the north east Altanta area. I am getting no signal. I try to run a check switch and get 1 of 50 instead of 1 of 4 (which I know is not good). I then removed power from all DVR's and then removed power from the switch, then apply power to the switch and then the DVR's. I ran check switch again and still the same. Wouldn't it still get 1 or 4 on the check switch even if the LNB was bad? Called Dish during lunch and they cannot get out there until Friday afternoon!!!!!!
Bad Switch?
- Thread starter Hawk88
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Try bypassing the power inserter and see if that works. Don't leave it there permanently though, just to determine if the power inserter is bad.
Check the output voltage of the power inserter. If tests OK, then to answer your question: If no switch is identified, you need a new DPP44. We are assuming that the first output port on the DPP44 is connected to the inserter?????
Need a DC volt meter to verify the output voltage, as shown on the power supply, that connects to AC. The proper switching will not operate without the power inserter. It may identify the switch, but not select the desired channel.
The 722 would be able to power the switch. Power inserter would not be needed in your case.
The 722 will NOT power a DPP44 switch properly. Especially if he has some variant of a 1000 dish. The DPP44 switch is expecting 28VDC @ up to 2Amps (Up to 56 Watts). Most of the time, this is overkill for the 44 switch, especially when used with only 2 LNBs. The ViP722 receiver has a Maximum output of about 19VDC @ 750mAmps (Up to 14 Watts). That's only 1/4th of the expected power available. That's probably enough on it's own to power the three LNBs for a 1000 dish (or 1000.X) but the switch also uses a fairly significant amount of power for band translation, band stacking and amplification. Will it work, sure. Will it work for a long time? Sometimes. Is that the way it's supposed to work? No.
A good Analogy is the people who put large audio amps in their small vehicles with small Alternators (the ones who's lights dim every time the bass hits) It works, and it works fine for possibly a long time, but it puts more stress on the alternator, and the Amps, then it would if there was a proper amount of power available. This will lead to premature death for both components. In the same way, powering the 44 switch with the 722 will put extra stress on the 722 power supply, and the 44 switch, possibly leading to them dying sooner. Also, if the 44 switch does not have enough power available for the LNBs, they will be fed less power than they are expecting possibly causing lower signal strength, or premature LNB death as well.
I do beleive if you talk to the right person at dish (tech support, not a CSR) They will RA you a power inserter. By all means, enjoy your dish with the 722 powering the switch until you get a replacement, but install it right as soon as you can.
Just called them, they were going to charge me 36 plus shipping. I told them I would try to find it first and cancelled my appointment. You would think after "we" did all the work they would send it for free. Guess the 141 bucks I send them every month does not warrant a free part (probably because I'm not under contract with them any longer).
If $5.99 of that was for the DHPP, then you should get it for free. If you don't have the Dish Home Protection Plan, you pay for any calls, shipping, and replacement parts, including leased receivers. Of course, it used to be only $1.99 a few years ago, so it wasn't so bad. When the price increase come next month, DHPP will be one of the items on the short list here.
Where exactly should I touch it with the multimeter to determine the voltage? Would I insert one probe inside where the coax goes and one on the outside where the coax screws on it? Maybe a pic would help.
DO NOT CONNECT THE RECEIVER TO THE INDICATED POINT ON THE INSERTER.........meter the output voltage on the port that GOES to the #1 output at the body of the DDP44.
Attach a short cable to the out side of inserter....touch voltmeter common {negative}lead to shield, positive to center pin. Be careful not to short center pin to shield with positive lead tip. It would be helpful to attach routed cable from the inserter to where it attaches to DPP44 for voltage check, providing the first test is positive. The operating voltage that you are looking for should be listed on the side of the pack that plugs into the AC. Don't be surprised to see a higher reading on your volt meter than what is printed on the pack. Remember, you are checking output with no load.
