BSC621-2 C/Ku LNBF ?
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Did ya check the review? Or maybe you wanted more info?
http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-mpeg2-equipment-reviews/68243-bsc621-2-c-ku-lnbf.html
They also get discussed in the C-band section:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-satellite-discussion/
http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-mpeg2-equipment-reviews/68243-bsc621-2-c-ku-lnbf.html
They also get discussed in the C-band section:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-satellite-discussion/
I tried mine on a 10' (newer) mesh dish with crappy ku results. C-band results were fine however.
ditto - although in my circumstance, it's probably "user error" combined with laziness/unwillingness to spend the time to tune it in right.
C-Band works great...KU on my 6 foot solid was iffy (but maybe the dish wasn't aimed 100% properly)
i got 1 comming for my 6ft dish ,i was wondering if their is anything special needed to be done or is it just plug and play?does it pickup all channels whether they are c-band and ku from the sattelite at the same time or do you need to change setting to to go from watching a ku channel
to a cband channel ?i was doing something else i cant say here i dont want to be a member of the ban for life club.i like this site a whole lot better. it a hell of alot more interesting here.lol.
to a cband channel ?i was doing something else i cant say here i dont want to be a member of the ban for life club.i like this site a whole lot better. it a hell of alot more interesting here.lol.
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FTA is far from "Plug and Play"!
You need to do a lot of reading and learning. Here is a start...
You can't just point your dish to the sky or point your dish to any satellite and get a signal on your receiver signal meter.
First of all, to get a signal on your receiver, you need to point your dish to a *specific* spot in the sky - point your dish to a specific satellite.
The size of the spot you need to aim the dish at is about the size of this ---> O
Then you need to align the dish to be in the center of that spot to get the best reception. This means in the center of the spot up/down and in the center of the spot left/right.
Needless to say, this is like trying to find a needle in a haystack!
Furthermore your receiver has settings for specific satellites and specific frequencies on those satellites. If your dish is pointing at the wrong satellite, you will not get any signal readings if your receiver is set to receive another satellite.
And if your dish is pointed at the correct satellite, and your receiver is set to the same satellite, but you have a frequency (transponder) selected for that satellite which is outdated or has nothing on it, or it is an "encrypted" frequency (Not FTA), then you will not get anything on your receiver signal meter.
Note that frequencies change on satellites quite often. So the frequencies your receiver came with can become outdated between the time the receiver was manufactured and the time you purchased the receiver. You can of course enter a new active FTA frequency/POL/SR.
You will not get anything if your receiver is set to receive a "C-band" frequency (4 digit) and you have a "Ku-band" LNB and dish (Ku band frequencies/transponders are 5 digit numbers).
You *will* get a reading on your receiver signal meter if your dish is pointing at the correct satellite, your receiver is set to receive from the same satellite, and you have an active Free to Air DVB frequency selected for that satellite (or have entered an active FTA DVB frequency) and the frequency is the correct band for your LNB/dish (Ku - 5 digit number for a small dish).
Frequencies for each satellite are listed at lyngsat.com. C-band is 4 digits, Ku band is 5 digits.
Finding the first satellite....
I am aiming my dish at a spot which requires accuracy, so I use accurate instruments. I use an "inclinometer" to be sure my dish is set to the correct height for a specific satellite. And I use a handheld GPS set to actual heading (not magnetic) to find the correct direction to point my dish for a specific satellite. I walk from the dish south multiple times with my GPS until I am walking the correct direction for the satellite. Then place a rock on that spot. Then aim my dish the direction of that rock.
Then I find out the offset amount of my specific dish which can be found at the dish manufacturer's web site. This could be 15 degrees offset, 18, 20, etc. Varies for each dish. This is because the LNB on a offset dish is mounted below the center of the dish. So the dish is actually pointing higher than it looks. The difference is the "offset amount" for the specific dish.
Then I use a dish pointing calculator which takes into consideration my location; longitude and latitude, elevation above sea level, and the specific satellite I am trying to point my dish at.
Here is such a dish pointing calculator...
http://www.satellite-calculations.com/Satellite/lookangles.htm
Accurate longitude and latitude and elevation of your location here. Keep double clicking on map...
http://www.earthtools.org
Then when I plug in all the numbers, I get accurate numbers back...
I get the direction my dish should be pointing (Azimuth). And I get elevation of the satellite or how high to point my dish in the sky. (Subtract dish offset amount from this.)
Then I can use my "inclinometer" to set my dish at the correct height and use my handheld GPS to point my dish the correct direction. Then I am pretty close to where that satellite is.
Next I attach a coax signal meter to my LNB. This will get a reading for any satellite and any frequency! Much easier to find any satellite with this gizmo.
Now I am in the ballpark for finding that first satellite. I usually just need to move my dish a little up/down or left/right to find it. About the size of a baseball.
Take some time and read this...
http://www.geo-orbit.org/sizepgs/tuningp4.html
You need to do a lot of reading and learning. Here is a start...
You can't just point your dish to the sky or point your dish to any satellite and get a signal on your receiver signal meter.
First of all, to get a signal on your receiver, you need to point your dish to a *specific* spot in the sky - point your dish to a specific satellite.
The size of the spot you need to aim the dish at is about the size of this ---> O
Then you need to align the dish to be in the center of that spot to get the best reception. This means in the center of the spot up/down and in the center of the spot left/right.
Needless to say, this is like trying to find a needle in a haystack!
Furthermore your receiver has settings for specific satellites and specific frequencies on those satellites. If your dish is pointing at the wrong satellite, you will not get any signal readings if your receiver is set to receive another satellite.
And if your dish is pointed at the correct satellite, and your receiver is set to the same satellite, but you have a frequency (transponder) selected for that satellite which is outdated or has nothing on it, or it is an "encrypted" frequency (Not FTA), then you will not get anything on your receiver signal meter.
Note that frequencies change on satellites quite often. So the frequencies your receiver came with can become outdated between the time the receiver was manufactured and the time you purchased the receiver. You can of course enter a new active FTA frequency/POL/SR.
You will not get anything if your receiver is set to receive a "C-band" frequency (4 digit) and you have a "Ku-band" LNB and dish (Ku band frequencies/transponders are 5 digit numbers).
You *will* get a reading on your receiver signal meter if your dish is pointing at the correct satellite, your receiver is set to receive from the same satellite, and you have an active Free to Air DVB frequency selected for that satellite (or have entered an active FTA DVB frequency) and the frequency is the correct band for your LNB/dish (Ku - 5 digit number for a small dish).
Frequencies for each satellite are listed at lyngsat.com. C-band is 4 digits, Ku band is 5 digits.
Finding the first satellite....
I am aiming my dish at a spot which requires accuracy, so I use accurate instruments. I use an "inclinometer" to be sure my dish is set to the correct height for a specific satellite. And I use a handheld GPS set to actual heading (not magnetic) to find the correct direction to point my dish for a specific satellite. I walk from the dish south multiple times with my GPS until I am walking the correct direction for the satellite. Then place a rock on that spot. Then aim my dish the direction of that rock.
Then I find out the offset amount of my specific dish which can be found at the dish manufacturer's web site. This could be 15 degrees offset, 18, 20, etc. Varies for each dish. This is because the LNB on a offset dish is mounted below the center of the dish. So the dish is actually pointing higher than it looks. The difference is the "offset amount" for the specific dish.
Then I use a dish pointing calculator which takes into consideration my location; longitude and latitude, elevation above sea level, and the specific satellite I am trying to point my dish at.
Here is such a dish pointing calculator...
http://www.satellite-calculations.com/Satellite/lookangles.htm
Accurate longitude and latitude and elevation of your location here. Keep double clicking on map...
http://www.earthtools.org
Then when I plug in all the numbers, I get accurate numbers back...
I get the direction my dish should be pointing (Azimuth). And I get elevation of the satellite or how high to point my dish in the sky. (Subtract dish offset amount from this.)
Then I can use my "inclinometer" to set my dish at the correct height and use my handheld GPS to point my dish the correct direction. Then I am pretty close to where that satellite is.
Next I attach a coax signal meter to my LNB. This will get a reading for any satellite and any frequency! Much easier to find any satellite with this gizmo.
Now I am in the ballpark for finding that first satellite. I usually just need to move my dish a little up/down or left/right to find it. About the size of a baseball.
Take some time and read this...
http://www.geo-orbit.org/sizepgs/tuningp4.html
My BSC621-2 did not come with any instructions. Following is a link to the instructions. Also click on the pictures on the right as these provide additional information.
Note: Don't tighten the coax cable to the connections on the BSC621-2 too tight. The connectors on the LNB's will begin to spin and this may damage the wiring inside.
BSC621-2 instructions...
http://www.dmsiusa.com/bsc621-2.htm
Note: Don't tighten the coax cable to the connections on the BSC621-2 too tight. The connectors on the LNB's will begin to spin and this may damage the wiring inside.
BSC621-2 instructions...
http://www.dmsiusa.com/bsc621-2.htm
I've been reading about that LNBf for some time.
Most people putting it to serious tests, have found it lacking in the Ku department.
Some experimenters have tried shortening its tube length, only to find maybe it needed to be longer.
So far, I'm unaware of a satisfactory resolution to getting stellar Ku performance.
And used on a 6' solid, you'd think it would blow away other Ku LNBs on 3..4 foot dishes.
That's not what I've read...
There's a similar unit sold by SatAV.
I haven't found sufficient feedback on its Ku performance.
I'd been hoping for a review or a shoot-off between the two.
Maybe I just missed it.
So, if you really are interested in just the one Ku satellite as you mentioned in your previous thread, then I still expect the Invacom horn and LNB will perform far better.
No, I don't have the equipment nor have I done the tests.
I've just done a lot of reading of comments by the members of this and other forums.
So I 'm repeating what has been reported in public.
Please follow up with your own research and here's hoping you find a good solution.
Most people putting it to serious tests, have found it lacking in the Ku department.
Some experimenters have tried shortening its tube length, only to find maybe it needed to be longer.
So far, I'm unaware of a satisfactory resolution to getting stellar Ku performance.
And used on a 6' solid, you'd think it would blow away other Ku LNBs on 3..4 foot dishes.
That's not what I've read...
There's a similar unit sold by SatAV.
I haven't found sufficient feedback on its Ku performance.
I'd been hoping for a review or a shoot-off between the two.
Maybe I just missed it.
So, if you really are interested in just the one Ku satellite as you mentioned in your previous thread, then I still expect the Invacom horn and LNB will perform far better.
No, I don't have the equipment nor have I done the tests.
I've just done a lot of reading of comments by the members of this and other forums.
So I 'm repeating what has been reported in public.
Please follow up with your own research and here's hoping you find a good solution.
i have the bsc621 and find both the c & ku fine but thats with a 7 1/2' dish
the ku signals are probably average maybe a little better than my QPH-031 but it was mounted on a primestar 1 meter dish..... the bsc621 did out preform my corotor with a 17k lnb and a .06 for ku but now i'm not so sure that it was properly setup & tuned correctly. But i've found that once you get the dish peaked (correct f/l, f/d and correct dish shape) and with the bsc621 tweaked you will like it....
i will write down some signal quality numbers sometime soon and find something else to throw up there to compart it to.
i would also like to see some comparison on the one sold by SatAV
but i think its a 17k unit compared to a 13k bsc621
the ku signals are probably average maybe a little better than my QPH-031 but it was mounted on a primestar 1 meter dish..... the bsc621 did out preform my corotor with a 17k lnb and a .06 for ku but now i'm not so sure that it was properly setup & tuned correctly. But i've found that once you get the dish peaked (correct f/l, f/d and correct dish shape) and with the bsc621 tweaked you will like it....
i will write down some signal quality numbers sometime soon and find something else to throw up there to compart it to.
i would also like to see some comparison on the one sold by SatAV
but i think its a 17k unit compared to a 13k bsc621
Actually, there is no internal wiring to get damaged, but what does happen, the Ku LNBF turns making the polarity between C and Ku out of alignment. You can see the tech bulletin at BSC621 technical bulletin. We've received 2 LNBFs back claiming poor performance on Ku and in both cases this was the problem.
Bulletin is linked from both BSC621 and BSC621-2 pages.
Hope this helps.
I've given up on my bsc. Hopefully soon, I'll get a geosatpro 2.4m and a corotor II c/ku, that way I can control and skew, etc..
Thank you very much for supporting your product and posting this. (Product support seems rare these days.)
Anyway you have gained a customer for life (me!) with your post here.
Thanks again!
Thanks for your kind words. We try to stay on the leading edge of technology while doing business the old fashion way. Thanks for your support.
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