Connecting a SuperJack QARL 3024 actuator

Discussion in 'C-BAND Satellite Discussion' started by huertaaj, Oct 2, 2008.

  1. huertaaj

    huertaaj Topic Starter SatelliteGuys Family

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    I purchased a used Superjack XL Ballscrew QARL 3024 actuator and I have no manual for it. I want to use my old Uniden UST-4500 analog receiver to control the actuator. Upon checking the wiring harness in the actuator box I see that it has 5 wires coming out of it connected as follows....
    1) A heavy green wire to one connector
    2) A heavy red wire to second connector,
    3) Two heavy white wires to a third connector
    4) A thin gray wire to a fourth connector
    5) A thin black wire to a fifth connector

    On the back of my Uniden receiver it shows + and - 24 volts out, one send and one ground. I am planning on connecting the Uniden as follows...

    A) + 24 volts from the Uniden to connector 2 (heavy red) above
    B) - 24 volts from the Uniden to connector 3 (two heavy white wires) above
    C) Send from Uniden to 4 (thin gray wire) above
    D) Ground from Uniden to 5 (thin black wire) above

    I think it doesn't matter if send and ground get mixed up. Am I correct? Also, does the thick green wire (#1 above) in the actuator get connected to anything. I am assuming that this green wire is ground but it doesn't make sense to me for that green wire from the actuator harness to be connected to nothing.
    Finally, when I opened the wiring harness box on the actuator I discovered that they little round magnet that is used for counting the turns of the motor was shattered. I ordered a new magnet which should be here in a couple of days. My question is (since I have no manual) how the magnet should be installed. Should it be blue side out or blue side facing in? Does it make any difference?
     

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  2. gabshere

    gabshere SatelliteGuys Pro

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    usually for Superjack they put the wiring diagram on the inside of the cover.

    your wiring sounds good

    the green wire sounds like a ground

    a picture of the magnet would help and also a different picture of the motor might help

    i think i have a extra magnet wheel , wish you would have asked before ordering
    usually this wheel has a arrow pointing to where , when it passes over the sensor it will count. the arrow should be up / visable
     
  3. huertaaj

    huertaaj Topic Starter SatelliteGuys Family

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    SuperJack QARL 3024, more questions about wiring and magnet

    Actually, there is a diagram inside the cover but it doesn't include the green wire. I guess I'll just leave it there and connect it to nothing. I appreciate the offer of the magnet but since I already had one shipped, that should fix me up. I assume that the 24 volts on the Uniden should be sufficient to power the 30 volt SuperJack. Is this correct?
    Finally, I do have one more question about the thin gray wire (#4) that runs from the circuit board where the magnet sensor is mounted to the wiring harness. This wire is currently positioned between the magnet sensor and where the magnet should be (see attached image). Maybe it doesn't make any difference if it is between the magnet and magnet sensor, but I just wanted to make sure. I can pull the wire around and make it go behind the circuit board, leaving the space between the magnet and the magnet sensor empty. Any ideas about what would be best? I would assume that if the wire is threaded between the magnet and the magnet sensor, it runs the possibility of rubbing on the spinning magnet.
    Anyhow, now that I'm looking closely at the connections, I think I'm beginning to understand a little better. I can see both the gray and black wires come from the magnet sensor. These are the two wires that will have to connect to the back of my Uniden to tell the receiver how many turns of the motor have occurred.
     

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  4. SatPhreak

    SatPhreak SatelliteGuys Pro

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    24V should drive it with no problems. I used to have a reciever that drove the dish with 24V and the motor was rated 36V, and it still moved the 10' fiberglass dish with no problems.
     
  5. huertaaj

    huertaaj Topic Starter SatelliteGuys Family

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    Help! Superjack - Used.. you get what you paid for

    I replaced the broken rotating magnet on the used Superjack actuator that I purchased and my Analog Uniden UST-4500 receiver actually does make the dish turn. Unfortunately, I think the magnet sensor is bad. The actuator works for about two seconds and then stops. The receiver says that there is an actuator error. If I push the button on the remote control to turn the dish again, it does the same thing. I connected a volt meter to the two leads coming out of the magnet sensor and it indicates 10.8 volts and it doesn't change when I turn the dish. I don't know if it is supposed to change or what it's supposed to do. So, I have two questions...
    1) How do you test a magnetic sensor for proper function?
    2) Where can I get a new magnetic sensor
    Thanks for any help!!
     
  6. Johnb3

    Johnb3 New Member

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    I have a Qarl 3024+Super Jack unit with the connector cut off.
    There are 5 wires in the cable coming out - Large White, Large Green, smaller White, smaller Green and a small braid (shield?) wire.
    Can anyone tell me what these wires connect to? Is there a wiring diagram available anywhere? Any specifications as to how much
    voltage the unit runs on, the current for motor operation, the wiring connections?

    Any help greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    John
     
  7. FaT Air

    FaT Air HOA Free Zone

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    Large White, MOTOR
    Large Green, MOTOR
    smaller White, smaller Green SENSOR
    and a small braid (shield?) wire. GND

    Using a battery connect to MOTOR connections and verify operation[and limit switch operation] in both directions.
    At the same time one could put a 'needle type' ohmmeter on the SENSOR connections and verify the needle swinging back and forth when the motor is running. (R x1 scale. A 9 dollar unit with the probes replaced with alligator clips works well)
    spec: 24 to 36 volts @ ~2.5 amps(at full load) From memory BITD for just about all actuators.
    Should normally be below 1 amp @~30v) while moving the dish except if lifting it off of a mechanical limit
    (Extreme E or West) They'll all run perfectly fine on as low as 12v but slower an less oomph. (And may draw more current)
    Oh, btw, Welcome to Satelliteguys.
     

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