Correct way to strip RG6 quad???

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oregonxfile

Active SatelliteGuys Member
Original poster
Oct 26, 2004
22
0
There seems to be 2 different ways to correctly strip RG6 quad...I'm using compression connectors, and have seen 2 different ways. One strips all layers, leaving just the final foil shield intact, before termination. The other way is similar, leaving the final braid intact and folding it back before termination. Basically I want to do this once, but it seems there are several opinions on the "correct" way to do it...I'm using a high quality cable stripper and compression tools, etc.

Any ideas??

Thanks,

X
 
interesting you show me that web site, because on that site is a link that show BOTH ways to be correct. The difference seems to be in the connectors being used..

Any thoughts??

X
 
I have a cable stripper, but I can vary the cut depth if I want, so I guess that's what I'm after. Do you strip all the way to the last layer of foil if using compression connectors, or do you leave also the last braid, and fold it back before termination??

Does not folding back the last braid create the possibility of stray signals giving me issues?

I'm going to be running 2 lengths of high quality RG6 quad, maybe 75 feet or so each, so I know there will be some db loss, so I'm trying to minimize
any other potential issues.

X
 
This is the best way that I've discoverd;

Stripping and installing connectors on RG6QS Coax


Careful preparation of the cable end is very very important, especially with quad shielded cable. Sloppy preparation will result is the ruining of the tool and failure to set the Snap-N-Seal connector properly.

1. Place the inner sleeve of the Snap-N-Seal connector with the wide end away from the end of the cable.

2. Strip off the outer jacket of the cable and a portion of the center conductor as instructed with a coaxial cable stripper.

3. Carefully fold back the outer shielding wires against the outer jacket of the cable evenly, exposing the inner shielding wires.

4. Carefully cut away the outer foil shielding layer, and remove it to exposed the inner shielding wires.

5. Carefully and evenly fold back the inner shielding wires evenly against the outer jacket.

6. Snap off the main body of the connector and insert it fully on the cable end. The connector is fully inserted when the center connector is level with the end of the connector, when looking inside the nut.

7. Compress the connector on the cable with the proper compression tool.

This method can be used with other compression connectors, tapered connectors or hex crimped connectors.
 
is there any harm in stripping down to the final foil layer, if I leave it intact and unmarked? My Paladin cable stripper won't allow that kind of precision, and even if I leave the final braid layer as well, some of it does get removed in the stripping process. Cable is Belden RG6 quad, 60 % coverage for the final braid, so maybe 10 percent gets lost in stripping...

Thanks for everyones help!!

X
 
No............

The end of the wrap or the "terminator" of the foil at the base of the strip next to the outer jacket is often hard to see and to find. If you can find this "terminator," you can nick it with a small cut with a knife and peel it off the entire shield area.

Another way is to place the knife anywhere along the end edge of the foil shield layer with the blade outward from the center and cut to the based of the exposed foil area. Then nick the base aound the base and peel the foil off.

This works perfectly without nicking or damaging the inner shield wires.
 
I use a "CABLE PREP" stripper. I've used them for years and had no problems with them at all. It has a fixed blade cartridge, so no need for adjustment. That and a Ripley Universal 6/59/7/11 loaded with Holland fittings and the whole termination process is complete in 15 seconds. We do alot of MDU work so time is a big issue.
 
ciaraco said:
I use a "CABLE PREP" stripper. I've used them for years and had no problems with them at all. It has a fixed blade cartridge, so no need for adjustment. That and a Ripley Universal 6/59/7/11 loaded with Holland fittings and the whole termination process is complete in 15 seconds. We do alot of MDU work so time is a big issue.


Neither of these tools will strip off the outer foil layer. The first shield layer needs to be folded over, and the first foil layer needs to be manually removed. You can do a lesser preparation, and it will work. But, is is not the best installation.
 
My two cents...
Don't cut off the braid... just fold it back but leave the inner foil on the foam dialectric. Cable-Prep brand is a good no-nonsense stripper.
BTW, you're using compression fitting designed for quad-shield cable, right?
sns6qs.jpg

technicalconnectionsinc_1817_80557896

purple for LRC (new and old )
a4_2.JPG

green for digicon
1a_2.JPG

blue for Lock & Seal
 
Yes, the compression fitting is for quad shield RG6

Paladin compression tool
Ideal RG6 quad compression fittings


Im still practicing my cable stripping techniques....

I wonder if I'm being too picky. The only thing I know for sure is it's important to make sure none of the braid is contacting the dielectric, but beyond that, there seems to be quite a difference of opinion as to the "correct" way to prepare the cable.

Again thanks for all your opinions and help!!


x
 
"Neither of these tools will strip off the outer foil layer. The first shield layer needs to be folded over, and the first foil layer needs to be manually removed. You can do a lesser preparation, and it will work. But, is is not the best installation." (Mike500 Quote)....Well Mike, I've made well over 20,000 terminations this year alone and had ZERO Quality Problems. So I doubt if it "NEEDS" to be done your way, but whatever floats your boat. I was just trying to help.
 
I know that it will work and work for a long time. This works in engineering all the time. It doesn't meand that it will work in the most extreme conditions. If stripped correctly and prepared correctly, even a standard or trishield connector could be used. It might be even better, since the hole of the retention sleeve is smaller and provides a better seal.

I prefer, however, to go the little bit extra for my high end customers.
 
OK...

I've opened a can o worms o sorts....

Tell me...If I strip right down to the inner foil layer, and remove all the excess foil and braid, will that work??

I've seen picture on the net with this strip, except it was for termination with a crimp connector.

Is this totally wrong, and if so , can someone tell me the pros and cons??

Thanks...

X
 
Take this nice PLEASE, but you are making this task overly hard for yourself. Just strip your RG6 and give it a test. I think you will succeed if you just give it a try and make the connections. Don't be afraid to mess up a few times because it takes practice to make them professionally clean.
 
No offence taken at all..

Call me weird, but I want to do it right the 1st time. I dont want to test and try in out and see if it works ok. You are probably right, but I'm approaching it with a attitude of a pro installer (which Im not), and Im thinking they would do it a certain way, all the time with high quality tools and parts, and using the correct techniques to do it. (Dont laugh lol) I've crimped before and terminated lots with pretty good results, but NOW I have a new home, and want to do it once and do it right and not dink around with testing.

Hence the request for a bit of advice. We all agree about not skimping on the parts and tools, so I guess its the technique I want to know about.

Call me anal, but didn't everyone's grandpa say something like, " A job not done right is not a job worth doin..", or something like that. I had one of those grandpas...

X
 

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