I had the power supply for one of my switches go this past weekend, and before I buy a new one I was wondering if anyone knew that the output voltage and currents were? I have a few laptop power supplies around the house and was hoping to recycle one of those for this application.
Dead Power Inserter for DPP44 switch
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I have repaired a few of those . take the 4 rubber pads off the power supply to expose the screws to take it apart. there is a internal fuse that might have blown.(soldered onto p.c. board) also visual inspect the capacitors to see if any have a bulge on the top. I think it supplies 5 volts and 22 volts to the ( coax hook up device ). not shure of the current rating on it. i have extra 1 around the shop here if u need it. will let it go for 10 if u cant get yours up.
Thanks for the offer, I'll dig into it and check it out. The green LED still lights but I think the heat may have gotten to something inside of it since its been in the attic for about 3 years
If you have a Dual tuner on port one, you really dont even need the power inserter. I have a 722 and 222 running without the inserter for several years now. Infact I had all kinds of trouble untill I took it out.
I know of an install thats been running for years now without a PI.
It was a service call I went on and I said first off there's your problem right there.
So I hooked up a PI and that didnt fix it. Turns out it was something else.
anyway he didnt understand why he needed to pay for one if it works fine without one.
I said ok,pulled it back out and said give me a call if it quits.
He never did
I would think you will have a tighter margin of error.
any weak link like a bad connector or a long cable run without that extra power could cause problems.
set up = (1)722 flat cable (apt) 4x4 1000+
It was a service call I went on and I said first off there's your problem right there.
So I hooked up a PI and that didnt fix it. Turns out it was something else.
anyway he didnt understand why he needed to pay for one if it works fine without one.
I said ok,pulled it back out and said give me a call if it quits.
He never did
I would think you will have a tighter margin of error.
any weak link like a bad connector or a long cable run without that extra power could cause problems.
set up = (1)722 flat cable (apt) 4x4 1000+
I don't have any dual receivers in my setup so that is not an option. Setup is a 1000+ feeding 2 DPP44 switches to 6 Vip 211k. Hoping to find time this weekend to dig into the power supply and see if it's fixable. Thanks for all the info.
I can confirm the PI provides around 20VDC..... One other advantage of a PI is if you have a OTA antenna with a preamp, you can use the DC voltage from the PI to drive the preamp. In an install where you are using a diplexer and a single coax for SAT and OTA, you can use a diplexer that passes DC on all legs on the SAT/antenna end of the cable.
There is a sticker on the bottom of the Power Supply which tells you the output voltage and amperage.
If in a hot area the caps are leaking and will need to be changed. Cheap caps (which all are now) just don't like the heat.
