dish kinda sees my 119...

P

philhu

Thread Starter
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Sep 1, 2004
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61.5 show fine on both connectors.

On one input, it sees 110 ok, and an X for 119
On the other input, it doesn't see 110 at all and an X for 119


119 shows as x on both, so it sees something.

I am using Sat21x and sat21 switches


110/119 into a sw21x then connected into the mix with 61.5 with a sw21

Second input duplicated with first.

This was working until last month....

Sounds like a bad lnb??

Can't see how BOTH sets of switches went bad at same timeor both LNB's all at once
 

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topcat0399

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Feb 28, 2007
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61.5 show fine on both connectors.

On one input, it sees 110 ok, and an X for 119
On the other input, it doesn't see 110 at all and an X for 119


119 shows as x on both, so it sees something.

I am using Sat21x and sat21 switches


110/119 into a sw21x then connected into the mix with 61.5 with a sw21

Second input duplicated with first.

This was working until last month....

Sounds like a bad lnb??

Can't see how BOTH sets of switches went bad at same timeor both LNB's all at once


in MY world that is not a valid set up as you describe.

119&110 into first SW21 INS then that SW21 into another SW21 IN with 61.5 coming in that ones other IN and then out to the receiver.

if that worked - it was a frankenstein setup. who did that?

what kind of receiver? seems to me that you would need an SW64, not 21's.
 
M

Mr Tony

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Supporting Founder
Nov 17, 2003
335
91
Mankato, MN
the SW21X is like a SW42....I use a SW42/21 setup

110/61.5 into a SW42 and the outputs into port 2 of a SW21..port 1 on the SW21 is 119..works great

I'd remove the switches and run the line directly to make sure the LNB is working
 
T

topcat0399

SatelliteGuys Pro
Feb 28, 2007
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the SW21X is like a SW42....I use a SW42/21 setup

110/61.5 into a SW42 and the outputs into port 2 of a SW21..port 1 on the SW21 is 119..works great

I'd remove the switches and run the line directly to make sure the LNB is working


nice to see you here docktoooor franKENstein
 
boba

boba

SatelliteGuys Master
Dec 12, 2003
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topcat 0399 sorry but some of you youngsters never had to work with Legacy equipment and learn how to do the impossible.
 
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topcat0399

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Feb 28, 2007
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topcat 0399 sorry but some of you youngsters never had to work with Legacy equipment and learn how to do the impossible.


thank god for that.

but at least you guys got MONEY in those days eh?
 
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philhu

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Ok, it worked before, for years. An SW21X is *NOT* an SW21.

Anywayz...

I took the SW21s out of the mix (Not the 21x), check switch reported exactly as above except no 61.5....obvious.

I pulled apart all the switches, and found a corroded 119 line, replaced the connector.

Plugged a 119 and a 110 directly to the rcvr, both inp 1 and inp 2 showed ok, tried the other 119 and 110 lines, both say ok.

Pluged them back into the sw21x units and plugged then into rcvr. BOTH show

Port 1: x
No Switch

Note reading nothing. Tried them one at a time, both show as X.

Where do I go from here?

Phil
 
B

Blang5313

SatelliteGuys Family
Jun 30, 2008
53
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SE Michigan
DPP Twin with a jumper in from the 61.5.

Might need a DP adaptor to power the LNB's depending on the receiver. (What kind?)
 
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philhu

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DPP? I have a 622

How much does it cost?

SW21X switches are $9.00

Do you think BOTH died?

This is a totally legacy system. I need to get it to work as a legacy system since the 110/61.5/119 dishes are all over my yard due to forests. The 110/119 lines merge together out in the back of my yard, then come into the house where they meet with the 61.5 dish

This was working before. It worked for years.

Do you think BOTH SW21X switches could go bad AT ONCE?
 
B

Blang5313

SatelliteGuys Family
Jun 30, 2008
53
0
SE Michigan
There are a few factors that could play into the failure of your system...

I was thinking you had a Legacy receiver, my mistake. So you have a 2 dish solution, or do all of the sats have their own dish?

Is it possible that mother nature (that bitch) has finally caught up to the LOS on your system? I assume that with the switch configuration you mentioned you are not using both tuners on the 622, or are you (trying to)? *Edit: Saw your attached signal readings... they were both hooked up, life makes sense. :)

It is possible for both switches to go bad at the same time (power surge, bad fitting etc...) though not likely.

If you have one dish for the 110/119 and then the 2nd at your house for the 61.5, I would highly recommend purchasing a DPP twin LNB ($20-30 on ebay at the moment). You will have one line running from the 61.5 lnb to the jumper port on the DPP twin (located at the 119/110 dish). Then one line from the DPP twin (port 1) to the separator on your 622. By doing this you will bypass all of the old switches, and enable yourself to use both tuners on the 622 with half the cable.

Hope this helps! ;)
 
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philhu

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Nope

3 seperate 24" dishes. No 2 together.

This is a b*tch to figure out!

PS. I am using both tuner inputs. I have 2 sw21x and 2 sw21
 
boba

boba

SatelliteGuys Master
Dec 12, 2003
11,350
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Dorchester, TX.
If you found a corroded fitting on a cable you could easily have corrosion inside 1 or all SW-21 switches. At best they were water resistant not waterproof. 4 New switches might be the cheapest solution.
You can also upgrade to Dish Pro LNBs on each dish(yes that make a dual LNB that looks like the Legacy except it has a black DP on it) and use a DP34 switch to combine all 3 dishes. From the DP34 you could have 4 cables 2 for your 622 and 2 for future expansion. This would be more expensive than the SW-21s but thanks to Ebay still reasonable.
 
P

philhu

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Ok, the 110 and 119 connect outside with the sw21x and the come into the house on 2 cables now, then I use 2 sw21 units to connect the 61.5 signals in.

Making them all come to the same place outside, to use a dp34 would not work, and require me to run about 150' of new cable and bury it.

I'll stick to new sw21x units.

When you do a check switch, what exactly does the 'X' for satellite name mean, instead of 110/119/61.5? Especially if it says 'Reception verified'

???
 
T

topcat0399

SatelliteGuys Pro
Feb 28, 2007
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If you found a corroded fitting on a cable you could easily have corrosion inside 1 or all SW-21 switches. At best they were water resistant not waterproof. 4 New switches might be the cheapest solution.
You can also upgrade to Dish Pro LNBs on each dish(yes that make a dual LNB that looks like the Legacy except it has a black DP on it) and use a DP34 switch to combine all 3 dishes. From the DP34 you could have 4 cables 2 for your 622 and 2 for future expansion. This would be more expensive than the SW-21s but thanks to Ebay still reasonable.

thats what id do i guess.


i haveta see me one of dem dare 21X switchs somtime.


ps - thanks for calling me "youngster", made my day!
 
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philhu

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I'll stick to new sw21x units. Sadoun has them for $9 each, so I bought 4. 2 as spares since you are right, they are getting a bit hard to find.

Now a new question about it all:

When you do a check switch, what exactly does the 'X' for satellite name mean, instead of 110/119/61.5, I see x/110/61.5? Especially if it says 'Reception verified'

Does that mean it found the switch/lnb, but can't tell what sat it is cause it is mistuned?
 
boba

boba

SatelliteGuys Master
Dec 12, 2003
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Dorchester, TX.
thats what id do i guess.


i haveta see me one of dem dare 21X switchs somtime.


ps - thanks for calling me "youngster", made my day!
At 60 years of age and 23 years in the satellite industry most people are youngsters in comparison it wasn't meant offensively and dosen't appear to have been taken that way. The SW21X just emulated a Legacy Twin so you could do switch combinations that allowed 3 satellite inputs.
 
T

topcat0399

SatelliteGuys Pro
Feb 28, 2007
562
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At 60 years of age and 23 years in the satellite industry most people are youngsters in comparison it wasn't meant offensively and dosen't appear to have been taken that way. The SW21X just emulated a Legacy Twin so you could do switch combinations that allowed 3 satellite inputs.


hell no im not offended.

im 46 years old but only in the sat business a couple of years (after a long carreer in various technical fields)- so most of my experiance is with DP and above.


i try to drink in anything about the business i can - so keep the legacy knowledge coming PLEASE!


see ya
 
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philhu

Thread Starter
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Sep 1, 2004
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I'll stick to new sw21x units. Sadoun has them for $9 each, so I bought 4. 2 as spares since you are right, they are getting a bit hard to find.

Now a new question about it all:

When you do a check switch, what exactly does the 'X' for satellite name mean, instead of 110/119/61.5, I see x/110/61.5? Especially if it says 'Reception verified'

Does that mean it found the switch/lnb, but can't tell what sat it is cause it is mistuned?

ahem...hehe

'X' in the check switch display?
 
vegassatellite

vegassatellite

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Nov 5, 2007
3,319
174
Phoenix, AZ
X means no satellite signal detected at that port.

Here's a troubleshooting method you can try:

Run a new test cable from receiver to each LNB and check for both even and odd transponders on each one. This will establish that all 6 signals you need to receive are present.

Next, barrel that new test wire on to the 119 wire that runs to your first switch downstream of 119. Check for odd and even again. Repeat this step with the cable for each satellite location. This will confirm the cables from each dish are good. This will test all 6 cables (2 from each dish).

Once you are sure all those cables and LNBs are good, now is the time to start individually testing switches. Take a lead from 119 and 110 and combine them using any of your switches and run the test on the receiver for that switch. You will need to do this for every switch in the system. Sounds like 4 altogether (2 sw21, and 2 sw21x)

If all those switches, LNB to switch cables, and LNBs are good, next you need to test the wire from the first switch in the cascade to the second switch. This is done by putting in your known good switch nearest the LNBs and connecting the second wire that runs downstream of that first switch and connect that to your test jumper. Do this for both lines that connect to the second downstream switch. (Note that since one of those should connect directly to an LNB, you will have probably already tested that one) In that case, just test the wire that connects between the two switches.

If all of that looks good, then just put everything back together but use your test jumper to bypass the final cable from final switch to receiver and test it.
 

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