Dish VIP622 Wont Accept Sat Signal

[jjjackson]

Hi

I've had several Dish VIP622 receivers, because they still put out an HDMI and RF signal at the same time. I like that because I send the RF signal to my bedroom and the HDMI to my home theater.

One of the problems I've had over the years is that the STB looses the sat signal. I usually have to either reset the STB or let it or the outside heat cool down for awhile.

About 6 months ago they replaced everything from the Dish to the receiver, including the dish, but now it's happening again.

Any ideas why this happens?

I have a feeling this additional problem is related. On certain cable channels, like the History Channel, I get many dropout, except during the commercials. My thinking is that it's caused by their pirate protection coding, but I'm starting to think both problems are related.

Any ideas?

Thanx

 

[HIFI]

I'd honestly have to say you have what is called "lnb drift" and will need to replace the lnb.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[HIFI]

Also if we could have a mod move to the dish forum that would help for others to chime in.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[jjjackson]

I'd honestly have to say you have what is called "lnb drift" and will need to replace the lnb.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

What is LNB drift and how do you fix it?

As I posted I'm on my third set of LNBs and they were replaced with totally new dish package only 6 months ago. Could this be a problem of heat expansion from the roof of my apartment building?

Thanx for the reply

 

[HIFI]

It is a heat related issue that is outside the electronic allowances of the lnb, basically think of it as a car driving outside the lines on a highway. I've replaced many over the years for customers that I've been the 4th or 5th tech out and had it fixed in ten minutes, yeah they were skeptical but I never heard from them after that call out.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[jjjackson]

It is a heat related issue that is outside the electronic allowances of the lnb, basically think of it as a car driving outside the lines on a highway. I've replaced many over the years for customers that I've been the 4th or 5th tech out and had it fixed in ten minutes, yeah they were skeptical but I never heard from them after that call out.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

So all that needs to be done is to replace the LNBs with new, no adjusting of the dish position is necessary? Interestingly it's not even that hot yet, compared to what it will be in a few weeks.

 

[TheKrell]

So all that needs to be done is to replace the LNBs with new, no adjusting of the dish position is necessary? Interestingly it's not even that hot yet, compared to what it will be in a few weeks.

Yes; the dish can remain aligned and the LNB replaced. If Dish already replaced the LNB several times, I would be pessimistic that yet another replacement would fix anything.

I vote for the 622 going deaf. I had two 612's with nearly adjacent serial numbers do that one by one with their two tuners. Dish replaced them and they were perfect until Dish junked them after my upgrade to a Hopper 3. If I were you, I'd try for a 722. (I still have my owned 722 by the way.)

 

[jjjackson]

Yes; the dish can remain aligned and the LNB replaced. If Dish already replaced the LNB several times, I would be pessimistic that yet another replacement would fix anything.

I vote for the 622 going deaf. I had two 612's with nearly adjacent serial numbers do that one by one with their two tuners. Dish replaced them and they were perfect until Dish junked them after my upgrade to a Hopper 3. If I were you, I'd try for a 722. (I still have my owned 722 by the way.)

Does the 722 allow both HDMI and RF out to work at the same time?

 

[HipKat]

Does the 722 allow both HDMI and RF out to work at the same time?

Yes

 

[jjjackson]

Exce

Yes

Excellent, You've all been very helpful and it's much appreciated

 

[jjjackson]

Exce

Excellent, You've all been very helpful and it's much appreciated

They won't let me have a 722, it's considered obsolete. They only want me to upgrade to the Hopper. I really dont need a Hopper.

 

[charlesrshell]

They won't let me have a 722, it's considered obsolete. They only want me to upgrade to the Hopper. I really dont need a Hopper.

Hopper 3 is the way to go.

 

[Bobby]

They won't let me have a 722, it's considered obsolete. They only want me to upgrade to the Hopper. I really dont need a Hopper.

The problem is that your extra TV sites are also somewhat obsolete. What you could do, however, is get the Hopper 3 and add a RF modulator to it it to serve your bedroom. Of course the best of all worlds is to send a coax to your bedroom along with a Joey. Another way is to add the Hopper and buy a Fire Stick and use Dish Anywhere in the bedroom to access everything on the Hopper except anything you might have on an external hard drive.

 

[dishdude]

They won't let me have a 722, it's considered obsolete. They only want me to upgrade to the Hopper. I really dont need a Hopper.

If you talk to tech support, they should be able to send you a replacement 622/722 receiver for $15. The front line CSRs are only going to be able to put in an upgrade to a Hopper.

My guess is the electrolytics are going bad in your 622. If you lift the cover, you'll probably see a few bulging capacitors. It'll operate erratically for a while before it fails completely.

 

[Tvland1]

My guess is the electrolytics are going bad in your 622. If you lift the cover, you'll probably see a few bulging capacitors. It'll operate erratically for a while before it fails completely.

That's my exact thoughts.. I've had a few burn up the power supplies on 211's especially after adding USB hard drives.. not sure if the 622's had the problems

 

[jjjackson]

Can the Hopper output both HDMI and RF at the same time?

 

[charlesrshell]

Can the Hopper output both HDMI and RF at the same time?

Yes but you need a RF Modulator as was stated by Bobby in post #13. Here is the model I use but you can get much lower prices RF Modulators. The Hopper 3 is the way to go. If you decide to upgrade to a Hopper 3 be sure and keep your 21.0 remote controls and 40.0 remotes if you have any. They will work with Hopper 3s.

Amazon product ASIN B0052V98DM

 

[Nebugeater]

Yes but you need a RF Modulator as was stated by Bobby in post #13. Here is the model I use but you can get much lower prices RF Modulators. The Hopper 3 is the way to go. If you decide to upgrade to a Hopper 3 be sure and keep your 21.0 remote controls and 40.0 remotes if you have any. They will work with Hopper 3s.

Amazon product ASIN B0052V98DM

So. Where is the elusive link to the model you use?

 

[charlesrshell]

So. Where is the elusive link to the model you use?

Do you see the modulator pic in my post? Click on it. That is the link.

 

[Bobby]

Yes but you need a RF Modulator as was stated by Bobby in post #13. Here is the model I use but you can get much lower prices RF Modulators. The Hopper 3 is the way to go. If you decide to upgrade to a Hopper 3 be sure and keep your 21.0 remote controls and 40.0 remotes if you have any. They will work with Hopper 3s.

Amazon product ASIN B0052V98DM

I don't see the link but i see the Media link when I reply. Can't see what it is.