DMX741U FROM WS

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MikeinBaja

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Sep 9, 2008
869
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San Diego area (CA)
I bought one of these due to the good deal offered to us for my first foray into C-band and a mini-BUD experiment. Read the PDF doc (thanks to whoever posted that - Ice I think), but I've got probably a pretty stupid basic question.

The "eye" end of the LNB has a recessed (looks like pressed in) cover with very small holes in it around the perimiter. Do I pry that dude off to access the dielectric plate? :confused: If so, any hints how to do it without buggering the cover up too bad?

I've just about finished fabricating a mount (laser pointer has been a BIG help!), and if I need to pry this dude apart I'd much rather do it on my workbench before I start pre-assembly.

Any other hints or experiences with this LNB?
 
yep that cover comes off to insert the dialectric plate
it should just pop off...otherwise a flat head screwdriver should work
 
yep that cover comes off to insert the dialectric plate
it should just pop off...otherwise a flat head screwdriver should work

Thanks Ice. As usual, you 'da man.

I assume the plate is already in there (wasn't in the box) so I'm really looking to pull it out so I can do a rough linear KU alignment with my Birdog (to find the bird) then switch to C side to see what (if anything) I can fine tune in from there. Think I'm going to try 99 first.
 
Thanks Ice. As usual, you 'da man.

I assume the plate is already in there (wasn't in the box) so I'm really looking to pull it out so I can do a rough linear KU alignment with my Birdog (to find the bird) then switch to C side to see what (if anything) I can fine tune in from there. Think I'm going to try 99 first.

Mike, that dielectric plate may not be in the throat. I think some people received the DMX741s and the plate wasn't shipped. If you don't have it I'm sure Robby & WSI/Galaxy will get one on the way ASAP if you let them know.

FYI, I received 2-DMX741s yesterday and the dielectric plate was laying loose in the box.
 
Mike, that dielectric plate may not be in the throat. I think some people received the DMX741s and the plate wasn't shipped. If you don't have it I'm sure Robby & WSI/Galaxy will get one on the way ASAP if you let them know.

FYI, I received 2-DMX741s yesterday and the dielectric plate was laying loose in the box.

Thanks for the reminder, now I remember reading about the missing plates!

Double checked the box & no plate, but I need to pry that cover off just to make sure that dude isn't installed in there.

Think I'm also going to look at fabricating some kind of a cover as it seems like the salt air here could get into the LNB through all those little holes in the "eye" cover.
 
Easiest way to get Cap off is to push it in on one side.

Sure was! Thanks for the tip :up. Came off real easy that way.

No plate, I'll PM Robbie. No big deal.

Did discover that my "guesstimate" estimate of FD was off :o (boy, is that sucker deep or what) so I need to mod my temp mount before trying to put this up.
 
I took a large paperclip, bent the end a bit and worked my way around the cover slowly, pulling on the cover through the holes.
Didn't mangle anything.
Got the cover off and found I had no dielectric plate either.

The plate is not really a big deal unless you are going for a circular C-band satellite way to the east.
Do you have line of sight to one that you really want?
I'm sure there is Spanish or Portuguese language on them , but I thought you were looking for English.?.
 
I took a large paperclip, bent the end a bit and worked my way around the cover slowly, pulling on the cover through the holes.
Didn't mangle anything.
Got the cover off and found I had no dielectric plate either.

The plate is not really a big deal unless you are going for a circular C-band satellite way to the east.
Do you have line of sight to one that you really want?
I'm sure there is Spanish or Portuguese language on them , but I thought you were looking for English.?.

Pushing in on one end of the cap worked really well. The cover has enough flex in it so you don't bugger anything up.

Knowing how things have a habit of changing over time, I think I still want the plate to have just in case there is something circular out this way down the road.

I was/am concerned with salt air intrusion into the LNB through the little holes. I took some saran wrap and stretched it tight over the LNB, then snapped the cap back into place and trimmed the excess with an xacto type knife. Those holes aren't for heat ventilation are they?
 
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Yes, exactly: breather.
Prevents condensation.
Phlatwound hit the nail on the head. :)

I guess you'd have to get input from some of our Florida or Caribbean buddies to know if you'll have a problem or not.
I understand your concern, being so close to the surf.

Would have to suggest you do a lot of research before any long-term use of the saran wrap.


edit: with all the modern technology we have these days, if it's a real problem, you'd think someone would have come up with a wicking procedure to deal with it. :)
Maybe something like the heat-pipes used to move the heat of a laptop CPU out to the edge of the package where it can be dissipated...

Another interesting option might be to fill it with DRY Nitrogen, then seal the LNBF.
Nitrogen is inert and wouldn't interact with the metals.
DRY just means all the moisture would be gone, again preventing any condensation or interaction with metals.
 
Yes, exactly: breather.
Prevents condensation.
Phlatwound hit the nail on the head. :)

I guess you'd have to get input from some of our Florida or Caribbean buddies to know if you'll have a problem or not.
I understand your concern, being so close to the surf.

Would have to suggest you do a lot of research before any long-term use of the saran wrap.


edit: with all the modern technology we have these days, if it's a real problem, you'd think someone would have come up with a wicking procedure to deal with it. :)
Maybe something like the heat-pipes used to move the heat of a laptop CPU out to the edge of the package where it can be dissipated...

Another interesting option might be to fill it with DRY Nitrogen, then seal the LNBF.
Nitrogen is inert and wouldn't interact with the metals.
DRY just means all the moisture would be gone, again preventing any condensation or interaction with metals.

Had not even considered the condensation issue, but it makes sense. Think I'll pull off the saran before I put it up and just take my chances with the salt air.

So far this little mini-BUD project is off to a really rousing start!

- Broke a sawsall blade in the first 10 seconds of work.
- Broke a tiny drill bit on the first pilot hole (5 minutes to remove).
- Fabbed a mount then discovered I put it too far back for FD (took it apart).
- Did the saran thing (now going to pull that apart).

:rant::o :D

What a day - 0 for 4, but I have come up with a solution for the FD issue - a sliding mount on the support arm for the LNB bracket. Planning to work on that Sunday (BIG picnic tomorrow).

Way things are going, probably should do a loose assembly (so it's easier to take apart!) :rolleyes:

Mama told me there would be days like this.
 
DMX741u issues

I have jumped head first back into C -band when This baby came along but I've had my own issues:

1)Screw holding lnb stripped threads on lnb collar(Scalar Ring?) and had to find a new screw in my spare parts bin that would still work to hold lnb.

2) new screw stripped threads again during peaking for Ku band on third day. Turns out metal plate is made of thin, soft metal - so after stripping threads a second time, I switch back to the OLD c-band lnb holder (Chaparal scalar ring?) - Which turns out to be a better engineered holder(3 screws and a naturally snugger fit overall) - thanks to someone on this board who mentioned THAT possibility.

My arms got very tired playing (peaking) this new toy of mine.

3) Is it me or despite company claims of having Ku lnb and c-band lnb's at "perfect" locations - I found that best Ku band performance occurred (peaked) at different focal point setting than c-band setting. This was especially true of digital broadcasts (dvb) on 133 (caribbean tv). This dual LNB setup design could have been design with only 10' dishes in mind - since I've read only one report where it worked perfectly on both Ku & C and that was a 10' Dish. On my 8' unimesh dish (f/r=3.75) - i get near peak c-band signals from anywhere between 3.4 all the way up to 4.2 setting (quite a range!). But Ku doesn't begin to come in until I've slid it back down to 3.4 and doesn't peak in quality (over 30 units) until I've moved down to 3.2. Too far down to receive C band digital signals with any quality (>30 at this position).

I believe a further design improvement could be achieved if the ku band lnb were placed into a sliding collar to allow for peaking differences between Ku and C-bands, on differing size dishes and varying focal depths.

4) Contrary to install instructions - Dialectric plate CAN BE left Installed (horizontal position only) - and won't interfere with standard linear reception. SURE, you'll lose about 30 points in Quality, but if it's a real strong Ku signal, it will still come through enough to be receivable. But don't install in vertical position if you want to see any linear signals. Oh, and leaving in the PLATE will mean giving up on digital C-band signals. They're reduced too much to be viewable.

On my unit, there are "slots" for installing Dielectric plate in Either position. Only the "vertical" position (12/6 O'clock - relative to "Zero" mark on top of unit beign 12 O'clock) allowed reception of both types of signals - Of interest to those having to choose between CIRCULAR and LINEAR signal-reception installation choices. Apparently, you DON'T have to choose. Provided you're willing to put up with the above mentioned detractions.

Of course, this could all be a figment of my Sun-stroked mind, since I was under a hot, Southern, afternoon Sun, atop a tall ladder for almost 4 hours before I took a break and went inside for COOL AC :) I'm taking a few days off, before I go back and try re-adjusting it again.

5) Built in "DiseqC" switch never seemed to work. There are two versions of the "DMX741" - one with a Standard Ku LNB and a 22Khz Switch, and MINE, a "UNIVERSAL Ku" with a DiseQc switch (the -U model).

I tried everything, including using 22kHz and DiseqC commands to change bands, with no luck. Finally, I went back to running two cables, from both LNBs and plugged them into a cheaper (mini) DiseqC switch i'd gotten a couple of years ago. Using two 4" pieces of RG-6 cables, I can keep the switch inside the LNB cover, running only one cable into the house. The Mini-switch worked like a charm using standard diseqc commands :)

Of course, that means I have to keep it plugged into just my DVB receiver, and use the Uniden Ultra as a dish positioner... but it works now - so I guess it's time to go "mess" with it again :)

Has ANYONE had as many or similar/disimilar problems that I have? I'd like to know anyone's experiences.
 
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