OTHER Help with SES-3 103W Ku

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Definitely making progress! Worth it to try a little more fine tuning - you can always go back to where you were if there is no improvement. Just mark everything before so you can return there. :)
I was so excited when I seen NBC and Cozi TV appear during the scan, and then it stopped...no DW! I could have cried:confused:
 
You are getting closer, keep at it. Upstate SC I am getting 13.6 SNR with a quality reading of 79 on EBS pro. One of the weaker signals, but still plenty strong. And as mentioned earlier Those C-Band dishes might have large mesh in them. I tried an ADL Corotor on my perforated 10 foot Unimesh with tiny holes and went back to my Andrews 1.2 meter Ku dish with a Ku ortho on it, blows the 10 footer away.
 
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Rod V, When you say focal length is 40 (or 30 and 20 on other dishes), do you mean the numbers on the side of the feedhorn where it slides in the scaler? If so, that is the f/d ratio and is a set figure by dividing the focal point by the diameter. The focal point is calculated by taking the diameter squared and divide it by 16 times the depth (if you don’t have the original documentation on the dishes).

If your corotor is stuck or you don’t have a receiver that can adjust it then the only thing you can do is a manual turn of 90 degrees.

Just curious but what satellites are the other big dishes pointed at? Are you only interested in getting DW on Ku at 103 or would you like to get NHK and NBC/Cozi too?
 
FTA4PA is right, mark before you move. I just do that automatically now and should have mentioned it.

If you are getting NBC and Cozi at 11760H, 11880H or the latest 12120H then we know your dish will work for Ku and so will your LNB. When I originally converted from an LNA to a C/Ku LNB with corotor (many, many years ago) I had to peak my dish and found that Ku is much less forgiving. Once I peaked for Ku, C-band fell into place. Once you get the highest quality reading on NBC by turning the feedhorn then try to get it to increase if you move the dish east or west a very slight bit. You may even have to raise or lower the elevation. Again, mark everything (or count the number of turns) before you start so you can go back because it's easy to lose everything.

I doubt you are interested in anything on C-band on 103 like the shopping channels, just Ku. Dual Ku band feedhorns for prime focus dishes I looked at were in the $150+ area and you would have to buy an additional KU LNB. Before I did that I would consider something like the 90cm GeosatPro dish with a quad output Ku LNBF for $180 but I know you have budget constraints. If you just want to experiment, a single output KU LNBF is only $15 here but it has been stated that these are for offset dishes and are not illuminted to maximum efficency on a larger prime focus dish but I've personally never tried it. Again, look for a used dish for a couple dollars or free.

If you want everything then buy another C-band LNB, another KU LNB and this for $500 Australian dollars!
Well, we can dream, can't we?

What part of MI are you in and how far are you willing to drive to get a dish? If you let us know someone may be able to help. I've seen offers posted by members in different parts of the country.
 
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We rebroadcast DW-TV (we have a license agreement) for our college cable channel, and they are switching from C to Ku soon and I can’t find the channel. I’m using a $29 special from Amazon, KOQIT FTA HD DVB S2 Digital Satellite TV Receiver.
With the C-band connected I get all FTA channels including DW-TV. When I do a scan with Ku, it lists several scrambled channels, a few SRV channels that I can view, NHK, CGTN, and few others, but no DW or other FTA channels, and it doesn’t show any channel names. And what is SRV? Please help this confused person, thanks.
 
Just FYI, here is the TP specs:
SES-3/Ku 103.1W 12079 Horizontal 29964.957 8PSK 5/6 DVB-S2
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This scanned in with a 120cm dish shows almost 15dB S/N with the TBS PCIE tuner.
 
Another post in the forum said the C-Band feed is gone. Just wondering why your old receiver would not work if you changed the L.O. and plugged in the new frequency and symbol rate information.
 
I'm almost certain the problem is polarization. Our current setup is just the receiver-we set the channel and forget it. This is the first time in more than 8 years that I have had to change polarity. The channels have moved, but they were always vertical. In the past, I used an Antenna Concepts positioner with the polarity selector to change between H/V. The polarrotator is a type of steppr motor--you MIGHT be able to control it by applying 5volts DC to 2 of the 3 wires, but it may screw it up...and will not give any reference ...it will move it..but position is trial and error...better to build the circuit that used the IC and properly adjusted position...it should be somewere on the web..you can set it to respond to TP voltage , so it does a 90degree change with H/V Transponder selction...i will see if I can find my copy and post is here later.







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So Today, I connected the old Antenna Concepts positioner to the polarotor and pressed the button... and nothing. I checked the voltage from the controller and I have a constant 5 volts. Should there be constant voltage or only when the button is pressed? Can I check the polar rotor with an ohm meter?
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Can you or someone recommend an inexpensive controller for antenna position and H/V polarization?
Thanks.
There was a circiut published years ago that allowed control of the polorotator with a simple low volatage dc power supply ( wall wart)...you could even have it control the polarization using the H/V volage chages of each Transponder...do a search for it ....if you dont have it, I will dig up my copy. It is easy to build and used one cheap/easy to get IC.
 

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