Hopper RF Modulators

At that price you're asking for it to fail.

This is one I use. Although it's 4 Channels . . .
Here's their store.
SandFarmer thanks for your help. Which Milticom model do you have? Is it connected from your Hopper or TV and by which cable connection do you have setup? Do you have any encryption issues? I am thinking of getting the Multicom 1080P Component/HDMI Digital 200 Encoder. Thanks again.

Amazon product ASIN B082DM432N
 
Not only that, it only accepts unencrypted HDMI inputs!
TheKrell, I read all the questions and answers in Amazon about the Multicom RF modulator. It appears there isn't any encryption issues if you have a HDMI spliter prior to the modulator HDMI input. You need a spliter anyway coming out of the Hopper's HDMI out port. One cable to the TV and one to the modulator. I called the Multicom tech department and he verified that there shouldn't be any encryption issues. I think I am going to try out this Multicom modulator model. If it doesn't work I will send it back to Amazon.

Amazon product ASIN B082DKVXLY
 
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It appears there isn't any encryption issues if you have a HDMI spliter prior to the modulator HDMI input.
Very interesting. So, let me understand how this is possible. You use the TV to handshake with the receiver, and then the video data is unencrypted? If it remains encrypted, then I think the Multicom must do the decryption by itself. But then, why would it need a splitter to a TV?.
 
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Very interesting. So, let me understand how this is possible. You use the TV to handshake with the receiver, and then the video data is unencrypted? If it remains encrypted, then I think the Multicom must do the decryption by itself. But then, why would it need a splitter to a TV?.
TheKrell I don't know how the spliter can do it. You need a spliter anyway to have a HDMI cable from the Hopper to the TV and a cable to the modulator. The site says this spliter will work getting around the encryption. The tech rep also says my J-Tech 4 port HDMI powered spliter that I am using now should work too. Time will tell.

Amazon product ASIN B004F9LVXC
 
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What happens when there is a handshake issue?
I'll bet the screen will just go black. I have a cheap Hisense 4KTV plugged into my H3. It has had issues going into 4K ever since I bought it. When I select a 4K program on Dish, the screen goes black and it claims it sees no signal. I can fix that by unplugging the HDMI cable, and plugging it back in again. Who wants to do that all the time?

The Hisense is also a RokuTV, and it has no problem streaming 4K material directly.
 
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SandFarmer thanks for your help. Which Milticom model do you have? Is it connected from your Hopper or TV and by which cable connection do you have setup? Do you have any encryption issues? I am thinking of getting the Multicom 1080P Component/HDMI Digital 200 Encoder. Thanks again.

Amazon product ASIN B082DM432N
I'm not seeing my model listed. It's a 4 Channel version, although 2 of the 4 aren't being used. Could be it's discontinued. BUT the great thing about these is that they are powerful. I hope you read the part where they say to put, not take out, a splitter under certain conditions to reduce power output as not to do any damage. I love that they actually say that.

I have an RG11 trunk running from the unit in the equipment room in the basement to an "Unpowered" splitter in the roof with the RG11 going West to the end of the house and one going East. At each room where there needs to be a tap I do a 3-way, or more if the rooms are adjacent to each other other and run RG6 to the plate. At the ends I have spiders, a 6 and 8 way splitters feeding those areas.

The good thing about getting it from Amazon is that "if" it doesn't work for you, you can send it back. Although I have never had to talk to TS, from the write-up it sounds like they're a good lot. Keep us informed.

I have to go mow thistles so my H3 can sit and ponder the evil of its ways and maybe DL 308. Or 311 by the time it gets around to it.
 
I'm not seeing my model listed. It's a 4 Channel version, although 2 of the 4 aren't being used. Could be it's discontinued. BUT the great thing about these is that they are powerful. I hope you read the part where they say to put, not take out, a splitter under certain conditions to reduce power output as not to do any damage. I love that they actually say that.

I have an RG11 trunk running from the unit in the equipment room in the basement to an "Unpowered" splitter in the roof with the RG11 going West to the end of the house and one going East. At each room where there needs to be a tap I do a 3-way, or more if the rooms are adjacent to each other other and run RG6 to the plate. At the ends I have spiders, a 6 and 8 way splitters feeding those areas.

The good thing about getting it from Amazon is that "if" it doesn't work for you, you can send it back. Although I have never had to talk to TS, from the write-up it sounds like they're a good lot. Keep us informed.

I have to go mow thistles so my H3 can sit and ponder the evil of its ways and maybe DL 308. Or 311 by the time it gets around to it.
Thanks SandFarmer. I am glad you posted the info about Multicom. I think they appear to be a rock solid company to me too. They have a nice wed site and lots of hi end products. The TS was very helpful and said to call him back if any issues. I asked him if a Firestick would work with the modulator too. He was not sure and wants me to call him back if I can get it to work so the company will know.

I did read that the modulator is powerful. The modulator out coax cable at my Hopper goes to a 3-way combiner (spliter turned backwards), then to an amp, and finally to a 12-port spliter. If it appears to be too much power I will take the amp out of the system.

Let me know if you need my Hopper software upgrade guide I have made to try to get your stubborn Hopper to download the software upgrade. She may be in denial because you have upset her!! LOL
 
Thanks SandFarmer. . . .

I did read that the modulator is powerful. The modulator out coax cable at my Hopper goes to a 3-way combiner (spliter turned backwards), then to an amp, and finally to a 12-port spliter. If it appears to be too much power I will take the amp out of the system.
You are quite welcome. I didn't answer just because I knew the answer. I guess you have to pay rent around here? I'd try it without the amp first.

Let me know if you need my Hopper software upgrade guide I have made to try to get your stubborn Hopper to download the software upgrade. She may be in denial because you have upset her!! LOL
Just might need it. I'm trying one more time. But this time I'm not watching. Leave to me to get an "Update Shy" receiver.
 
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You are quite welcome. I didn't answer just because I knew the answer. I guess you have to pay rent around here? I'd try it without the amp first.


Just might need it. I'm trying one more time. But this time I'm not watching. Leave to me to get an "Update Shy" receiver.
Good idea. Just set the remote down and leave her alone. Come back in about 30 minutes or later start your Hopper up.
 
Very interesting. So, let me understand how this is possible. You use the TV to handshake with the receiver, and then the video data is unencrypted? If it remains encrypted, then I think the Multicom must do the decryption by itself. But then, why would it need a splitter to a TV?.
I used a cheapy splitter and set it to use it's own Fist Bumps and EIDI so you get a "clean" signal into the modulator. Then it on its own outputs a clean signal. So no worries there.
It's the same thing I did to get a "stick" to work on a Samsung TV. When they won't. I hope my neighbor doesn't see that I came up with a solution for her old 65" TV.
 

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