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Titanium

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Good news the servo is fine bad news there a plastic piece the servo sits on that spins it that’s broke. Do you think a dab of super glue would work?
Clean the parts with rubbing alcohol, let dry and Super Glue (or my favorite, Epoxy) back together. Repaired many customers servo links with epoxy and the part would outlast the rest of the system! :biggrin
 

coltonjared

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Mar 23, 2016
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Fort Branch IN
I super glued it back together last night and let it set overnight to dry. Wish I had epoxy I like that stuff better but in a jam use what you got I guess lol.
 
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coltonjared

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Servo is now working perfect now checking the dish setting. The Declimation is set correct at 5.4 but the elevation is at 36.2 instead of 38.8 which would explain why I’m not getting a lock. I guess analog was a lot more forgiving back in the day I take it? Just make luck would have it the elevation bolts are seized up.
 

primestar31

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Servo is now working perfect now checking the dish setting. The Declimation is set correct at 5.4 but the elevation is at 36.2 instead of 38.8 which would explain why I’m not getting a lock. I guess analog was a lot more forgiving back in the day I take it? Just make luck would have it the elevation bolts are seized up.
Get some PB Blaster, and soaks those nuts well for a couple hours. Then rap on them soundly with a ball-peen hammer a few times. If that doesn't work, get a box-end wrench, and fit a 2 foot piece of pipe over it to extend the handle. THEN I'd bet it'll unscrew. If not, it'll twist (break) off and you can get new ones. After that, put on some Anti-seize lubricant on the threads.
 

coltonjared

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Mar 23, 2016
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I got the bottom nut to break loose once I got the right fitting on and it broke easy now the top one not so much but I noticed the dish didn’t move when I loosened the lower bolt like I thought it would. Does the top one need to be loosen to for it lower the elevation?
 

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primestar31

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I got the bottom nut to break loose once I got the right fitting on and it broke easy now the top one not so much but I noticed the dish didn’t move when I loosened the lower bolt like I thought it would. Does the top one need to be loosen to for it lower the elevation?
IF they cranked the nut at the very tippy-top too tightly, it won't allow the thread rod to easily move up and down. Just tweak it slightly loose. You might also consider loosening the lower nut to the bottom of the threads, and tapping UP lightly on the NUT with a hammer (so as not to damage any threads). Once the elevation rod is loose, you can adjust the jam nuts as needed.
 

coltonjared

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I figure it out the Pivot bolt I would guess you call it was over tightened so when I lossen it the dish came down. Set my numbers still can’t get a lock so I’m back to this game again lol
 

primestar31

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I figure it out the Pivot bolt I would guess you call it was over tightened so when I lossen it the dish came down. Set my numbers still can’t get a lock so I’m back to this game again lol
ALL your initial adjustments should be made when the dish is at it's highest arc-point, then pointed at whatever is your SOUTH most satellite that has what should be a active broadcasting transponder.
 

coltonjared

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ALL your initial adjustments should be made when the dish is at it's highest arc-point, then pointed at whatever is your SOUTH most satellite that has what should be a active broadcasting transponder.
That’s what I’m doing. It’s parked at the top and I have my setting all put in. Maybe I need to recheck my lnb make sure it’s still center and at the correct focal length.
 

coltonjared

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I’m getting a 19 1/2 inches on the depth and 48 1/2 focal length and focal depth of 38 that was set when I took it down so looks like that all wrong
 

Titanium

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I calculate the Focal Length to be 47 3/4" and the FD ratio to be .39. The measurements provided in the post above are in the ball park.

(D*D) / 16*c) = f (Focal Length) - (122 x 122) / 16 * 19.5) = 47.7"
f/D = FD Ratio - 47.7" / 122" = .39
 
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coltonjared

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Is it common to get a 1/2 inch measurement when doing the depth. I wasn’t sure if I was seeing that right or not when I got that reading but I checked again and that’s what I got
 

coltonjared

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Mar 23, 2016
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I was able to work on it a little today and redid the string test with fishing line and it failed. It looks to be 1/4 inch off. I lossen all the panels to tryed to readjust them but still couldn’t get the strings to touch. I tried measuring each string but it’s kinda hard to get a reading and not touch the string and make it move. I’m getting I think 19 1/2 on one and 19 1/4 on the other so what settings do I go with
47.7 .39 or
48.3 .40
 

coltonjared

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Mar 23, 2016
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Also the screw that holds the lnb in place appears to be stripped so I can’t loosen it to pull it out.

I was playing with the numbers and it looks like they got that .38 f/d from 19.5 and 120 inches for the dish cause they probably assumed it was 10 foot exact
 

Titanium

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If all strings are within 1/4" of touching each other, this is accurate enough for a consumer grade dish. The depth of the dish is not highly critical as it measured to provide a ballpark figure for calculating the Focal Length and the Focal Diameter ratio. A 1/4" variance is close enough and will not change the calculation by too much. Either of the discussed FD/FL measurements will be in the ballpark and the signal will be optimized by comparing several transponders on different polarities and on different satellites.

Is the feedhorn centered on the parabola? Is the scalar parallel to the reflector? Is the feedhorn aimed directly into the center of the reflector?
 

coltonjared

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Mar 23, 2016
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Fort Branch IN
I finally got some time to work on it. Got the feedhorn centered focal length and depth set and double checked the elevation and declamation and still can’t get a lock on 87W. I wish I could find someone close that knows how to work on these to see if I’m missing something but nobody wants to touch them anymore.
 
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