Moving a switch indoors

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Peter Parker

Formerly Geronimo
Original poster
Supporting Founder
Lifetime Supporter
Sep 9, 2003
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I don't know how many times I have had DISH out since i became a sub in 99. Every time it has been because of switch failure. How can i convince them to move it indoors and out of the elements.
 
Geronimo said:
I don't know how many times I have had DISH out since i became a sub in 99. Every time it has been because of switch failure. How can i convince them to move it indoors and out of the elements.

Honestly, when I do my installations I always try to mount the switch indoors. I hate to say it, but its almost a zero failure rate when they are located indoors.

It depends on the installer, all Dish installers are contracted. Your not their customer and they just want to get paid for the Job and leave. If you have another problem, another installer comes out and its no longer the origional installers problem. You really can't argue your point since technically its an outdoor switch.

You can probably pay the installer extra, or do it yourself!
 
The only place where I've installed a switch outdoors is on the ceiling of an overhang with the cables sloping downward from the ports.

Otherwise, I install only indoors or in a weatherproof box.
 
Since you are a customer from 99 and have had had many problems I think it is safe to assume that you have a SW64. If this switch is not installed correctly it will fail often. Check to see if all your lines are properly grounded. If it is moved off the roof remember that that switch will need 6 lines run from the dishes to the sw64. The 6 lines is most likly the cause of the reluctence of the tech to move the sw64 off the roof. It is my oppinion that the prime cause of the failure is heat warming the switch then when it is rained on the cooling contracts the air in the sw64 causing water to be drawn into the switch through the conections. Because the space in the SW64 is so large the vacume created is significant.

If you have a sw44 or a dp34 there is no reason to leave them on the roof they only need 4 lines.
 
Make you put a ground block with #10 ground wire from ground block to ground rod BEFORE the switch. Also make sure there is a #18 messenger/ground wire attached to the dish and to the ground block. This will get rid of any kind of static and surge before it inters the switch. When we get bad switches at the shop i like to open them up and look in to see if i can see any signs of a surge/lightning damage of any kind. Out of 10 that we get I would bet that 3 would have signs of surge damage but that is here in Alabama were lightning is very bad if not close to being the worse than anywhere in the U.S. The other 7 out of the 10 probably are either just defective or have had heat/moisture damage like Mikethedishguy said.
 
Again how do I convince them to put it in indoors.
 
mikethedishguy said:
Since you are a customer from 99 and have had had many problems I think it is safe to assume that you have a SW64. If this switch is not installed correctly it will fail often. Check to see if all your lines are properly grounded. If it is moved off the roof remember that that switch will need 6 lines run from the dishes to the sw64. The 6 lines is most likly the cause of the reluctence of the tech to move the sw64 off the roof. It is my oppinion that the prime cause of the failure is heat warming the switch then when it is rained on the cooling contracts the air in the sw64 causing water to be drawn into the switch through the conections. Because the space in the SW64 is so large the vacume created is significant.

If you have a sw44 or a dp34 there is no reason to leave them on the roof they only need 4 lines.


I have haf the SW64 but no longer do. Those failed within 90 days. I currently have the SW 21 3 Sat configuration. It is somewhat more reliable but it too fails and they resuse to move it indoors. Hence the question in this thread.
 
here is what i see a lots. water gets in to cables then it burns out the stinger on ends of the switch. when tech replace the switch they cut only bad ends and put new on some times you can actually see water inside of the cable. another problem could be that squeals chew line up on a roof and water getting in and burning out switches. my recommendation would be talk to the tech in to replacing lines and put the switches in side.
 
Threaten to cancell, but unless there is failure due to water then there is another reason why the switches are failing and moving them indoors wont correct your problem. The sw64 was a problematic switch to begin with and I never liked them, still having replaced many I can say that it was a 50/50 mix between indoors and outdoors and the only time I had ever seen water damage to a switch was due to loose connections and damaged lines.
 
Is there 1 part that goies most of the time? Your current system has 1 multi switch connected to the 2nd dish than 4 lines run to the 3 or 4 SW 21 switches the 119/110 has a quad with 3 or 4 lines running to the other input on the sw21. I have found that this tends to be more reliable except that it requires 16 conections. Conections which are outside are the most frequent point of failure in any system. Which part seems to fail most often. Make sure the system is grounded.

As to moving inside the problem may be how the system is built. and the reluctence of run 6 lines to an inside location.
 
Geronimo said:
Again how do I convince them to put it in indoors.
you do it yourself, if own the equipment, just move the switches indoors yourself.
Thats where I installed my sw21s and now that's where I have my my sw64.
so what if it takes more rg6 and time, it's my rg6 and and my time!
 
I have spoken to the techs. But I still wind up with an external switch configurstion. Thanks anyway.
 
If it is in fact a SW64, see if you can convince them since you've been through a bunch of switchs to go to DP LNB's and Switches.

I went through 4-5 SW64's and finally convinced them to do the DP stuff, and had no more issues. This was when I was back in Garland.

LER
 
How important is the switch mounting direction. I notice they have a this side up arrow. I mounted mine rotated to the left and haven't noticed any issues but was wondering if it would cause any long term probelms.
 
You can always place the switch in a box. As long as the cables enter and exit trough the bottom, the switch is protected from the weather.
 
BrettTRay said:
Make you put a ground block with #10 ground wire from ground block to ground rod BEFORE the switch. Also make sure there is a #18 messenger/ground wire attached to the dish and to the ground block.

mikethedishguy said:
Check to see if all your lines are properly grounded.

Oh come on his Question has nothing to do with grounding. Good idea, but ground or not these things go out. Other than the SW64, most of what I have seen is poor connections.
 
LER said:
If it is in fact a SW64, see if you can convince them since you've been through a bunch of switchs to go to DP LNB's and Switches.

I went through 4-5 SW64's and finally convinced them to do the DP stuff, and had no more issues. This was when I was back in Garland.

LER


As I said earlier I had the SW 64 but it ahs since been replaced by a different configuration.
 
Mike500 said:
You can always place the switch in a box. As long as the cables enter and exit trough the bottom, the switch is protected from the weather.

I will suggest that. So far thyey seem happy to keep replacing my switches for free every few months.
 
My installer put the DPP44 outside on top of the hill where my dishes are. I asked him to put it under the house but he said no. So, after he left I moved it under the house myself. No Problem!
 
Chief
I had the same setup (2 dishes with a Sw21) and I put my switches under the eave of the roof protected from the weather. They were there for 3 years with no issues
 

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