Need help with a car decision - old "cream puff" or lemon ??

[bhelms]

Howdy! My mom passed last month. Part of her estate is a '94 Regal with less than 19K miles on it, the proverbial "driven by a little old lady only on Sundays" car. I know its history and have all the records. One problem is that it's in south Florida, over 1,200 miles from me, but I can manage that.

Should I spend the money to make this car road worthy? What would you do?

It looks to be in good condition even tho' it has been sitting in the sun for years. The leather is cracked in a few spots, but otherwise supple. There seems to be no rust, nor any problems with most of the rubber like the door seals and hoses, etc. The engine starts and runs - a new battery was needed to determine that. The tires are several years old. They were replaced once because the originals dry rotted. These new ones have almost all their tread left, but I need to look closely for cracks in them as well.

I had it towed to a dealer. He pronounced the car in good condition including the tires. It needs a new belt idler/pulley and belt ($450), brake rotors turned all around as they're badly rusted from sitting ($650 for rotors turned and new pads), and the air conditioner compressor is leaking ($800 ??). So for about $2,000 to $2,500 I could have this car in good working order, maybe another $500 for tires. It will also cost me about $700 to get it to PA. (I'd fly down then drive it to Orlando, put it and me on the "Auto Train" for an 18-hr. ride to VA, then drive the rest of the way home.)

This could make a great car for my kid in college who's just starting out, or for my wife who otherwise drives my '95 pick-up. Then there's the sentimental factor that is hard to quantify. Somehow keeping that car around seems like the right thing to do by Mom. And you know from my other posts that I derive a lot of my "mojo" keeping worthy old things running.

Any thoughts/comments ?? TIA and BRgds...

 

[AllieVi]

The sentimentality thing may be the deal breaker, of course, but here’s my 2 cents…

I’d first determine the approximate current market value of the car. What would someone pay for it as-is, where it sits? Someone who knew her and its history might be willing to buy it. Next I’d add the $2000-2500 you expect to spend in repairs. Now compare that total to what you’d spend for a new or newer used car.

I’d also consider the advances that have occurred in auto technology and safety since ’94. Also, remember your old one won’t have a warranty but a new one would.

On the plus side, you wouldn’t need to pay for comprehensive insurance on the Regal.

In the final analysis, I’d have to see some major financial advantage to putting it on the road.

 

[cparker]

I'm gonna disagree with AllieVi. Nothing personal, Allie.

I'm 55 years old and I've learned to do what feels good. If it feels right with you to do this and if spending the money won't hurt you financially (or your family) then I say, go for it. I bought a "little old lady" Chevy Celebrity many many years ago for my wife. She loved that car.

The Blue Book can only do monetary values. You need to decide if it has value beyond the dollars.

Not sure about that train ride though. I've driven Buffalo, NY to Jacksonville in 18 hours. Seems to me you could drive that car home from florida and really get a feel for it and enjoy the ride.

 

[Hemi 6.1]

The problem is the longer they sit the worst it is on them. Valve seals dry from lack of oil,A lot of times heater cores start to leak from old coolant sitting in the bottom. If its been sitting for more then a few years,You might as well sit back and get ready to do some repairs and spending. Electronic parts fail from moisture and bugs,from sitting.You might what to just trade it.

 

[Van]

Keep in mind that when you go to the dealer you paying alot more than you would if you went to a local shop on the parts, having worked at a dealership in the past as a mechanic I can tell you that the write up on parts can pay for the service managers dinner for two at the Ritz such as strut top bearings wich are plastic waifers thick as a silver dollar that retail for $300 each. Do some comparison shopping before committing to the dealership, you could probably save yourself atleast $400 plus its always good to get a second opinion on what needs to be done. Hold off on the A/C if your not going to be picking up the car within the next two weeks or have charge it yourself for about $30 with the freon kit that comes with a sealer so that you can atleast get yourself back in comfort. If your in the north then you know that a rust free southern car will fetch a good price and considering that its an under 20k mileage car then it will be more of a value.

 

[Bogy]

I agree that low mileage cars are not always the great deal they appear to be, because it is worse for a car to just sit (without being properly prepared for storage) than it is to be run regularly with proper maintenance.

However, I also agree with Van that I think you should get a second opinion, from a mechanic other than a dealer. Perhaps I am spoiled because I would do things like brakes myself, and my local dealer in small town Iowa charges much more reasonable rates, but I think the prices you were quoted, especially for brakes, seems excessive. $650 for TURNING the rotors and putting on pads? I'd expect brand new rotors, and damn good ones, for that. Same for the idler pulley and belt. I'd try Van's suggestion on the AC before I'd shell out $800. (I'm cheap). Someone's got a boat payment to make. Find a more reasonable mechanic and get a second opinion. And me, I'd drive it back. Again, I'm cheap.

 

[TheForce]

Agree on the Auto Train- I drive that route all the time and it's a cake walk of a drive, and much cheaper. The problem with the train is they stop at every little place along the way. The Auto Train is a great thing for someone who wants to do a "Train Ride" I agree with what others have said about the old car, and then some. What ever the bill for those major parts, go ahead and double it for labor to do the minor parts. Every rubber item, hose etc will need replaced. Best to just sell it off as is where is unless you want to make it a hobby getting it road worthy and keeping it that way. Also remember, your state may also require emissions testing too.

I once had a low cost motorhome that sat for 3 years. I couldn't sell it for cheap so I had this customer who had some used video equipment I needed and he often commented he would love to have my motorhome but couldn't afford it. I called him up and made a trade! He towed it out and dropped off the video equipment. We both were happy! He hired an out of work mechanic/ handyman and got it running and cleaned up and drove it on a cross country trip before the engine blew!

 

[AllieVi]

... Perhaps I am spoiled because I would do things like brakes myself ...

About 10 years ago I took my car to Jiffy Lube (I think) to get an estimate for brake work. They wanted something like $500 to replace the rotors (“not enough metal left to turn them”), turn the drums, redo linings/pads and flush the system. They also showed me liquid from a leak that needed immediate repair.

I did the work myself. For the cost of the pads/linings, the auto store also turned the drums and rotors (they had plenty of thickness). Even though I didn’t address the leak, for some reason it must have healed itself since it disappeared after I wiped away the fluid…

The total cost of the repair was in the $50 range and some of my time.

bhelms may not have the option of doing it himself. He’ll be away from home when picking it up and time/tool availability might not allow.

 

[Van]

Biggest thing you need to do atleast to get it back is get the brakes addressed, do some research and found out if the rotors can be easily replaced or if they are the pain in the butt ones that have pressed in bearings or are atached to other suspension parts that would make it hard for the weekend mechanic to fix. I cant see though that the rotors would be rusted unless where she lived at was right off the water, Im really thinking its time for a second opinion and after thinking more about the brakes Im thinking that the dealer is charging up to %50 to much for the job.

 

[Van]

Oh yea one more thing, when it comes to labour charges the dealerships rarely keep track of how long it takes to actually do the job so if they quote you a labour charge of $79 an hour labour and say it will be a four hour job even if it takes the guy two hours to do it you'll most likely still end up paying for the four hours, the now defunct dealership that I wrenched at did that and I didnt find out till I was laid off.

 

[bhelms]

Tks folks for all the suggestions. I agree with cparker re: my age (same!) and the sentimentality factor. It may not be the best $$ decision, but the cost is relatively minimal in the Grand Scheme of Things and even if I lose some on it, that won't be a big deal. Then again it might work out to be a fantastic car for the investment!

My biggest issue is the distance and my limited time to deal with it. I can't drive it around for estimates, and I can't do the work there myself being so remote from my resources. I think this dealer might bargain a bit, so I'll certainly try that first. I need to fix that pulley/belt and the brakes as a minimum just to drive it. I think I'll wait on the compressor. I'll do like Van said and have it recharged with sealer right before I drive it off and that might last long enough to get me back north where I really won't need it anyway.

Hemi is right about the sitting part. The mechanic says the visible rubber parts are OK, but you never know about the seals and internal stuff. The car was always used infrequently throughout its life (sat for weeks at a time), but now it has sat completely unused since June '06, about 1.5 miles from the ocean. Other than that it had its required maintenance as needed (per the records).

Bogy and AllieVi - I completely agree with the DIY part, but that's not in the cards right now. Don - I guess the Auto Train is a last resort idea. I might get a buddy to fly down with me and help me drive it back for a bit less. (Gas at approx. $100 plus his airfare and meals ($200?) vs. about $500 for me and the car on the Auto Train.)

I need to cool my heels for a bit while the court processes papers to make me the legal representative and that's needed to retitle it and/or register it. In that interim I will check with some brokers to see if I can get anything for it, probably $500 to $1,000 at best as-is.

I'll let you know what I decide...

 

[Inno]

If the body is minty, it would probably be worth working on. I have had it with new vehicles and the depreciation that comes with driving one. For the price of say 4-6 months of car payments you could have an older car that is in decent shape...........now I say that from a DIY perspective, if you have to pay mechanics then perhaps it's not a great deal. My next vehicle is going to be a small car for fuel economy, and definitely not a brand new one...........I'd prefer one that's a few years old that someone else has already payed the depreciation on! I'll just do the upkeep.........even new vehicles need that after the warranty is up! I refuse to make car payments forever.

 

[GrnMtnMan]

Tks folks for all the suggestions. I agree with cparker re: my age (same!) and the sentimentality factor. It may not be the best $$ decision, but the cost is relatively minimal in the Grand Scheme of Things and even if I lose some on it, that won't be a big deal. Then again it might work out to be a fantastic car for the investment!

My biggest issue is the distance and my limited time to deal with it. I can't drive it around for estimates, and I can't do the work there myself being so remote from my resources. I think this dealer might bargain a bit, so I'll certainly try that first. I need to fix that pulley/belt and the brakes as a minimum just to drive it. I think I'll wait on the compressor. I'll do like Van said and have it recharged with sealer right before I drive it off and that might last long enough to get me back north where I really won't need it anyway.

Hemi is right about the sitting part. The mechanic says the visible rubber parts are OK, but you never know about the seals and internal stuff. The car was always used infrequently throughout its life (sat for weeks at a time), but now it has sat completely unused since June '06, about 1.5 miles from the ocean. Other than that it had its required maintenance as needed (per the records).

Bogy and AllieVi - I completely agree with the DIY part, but that's not in the cards right now. Don - I guess the Auto Train is a last resort idea. I might get a buddy to fly down with me and help me drive it back for a bit less. (Gas at approx. $100 plus his airfare and meals ($200?) vs. about $500 for me and the car on the Auto Train.)

I need to cool my heels for a bit while the court processes papers to make me the legal representative and that's needed to retitle it and/or register it. In that interim I will check with some brokers to see if I can get anything for it, probably $500 to $1,000 at best as-is.

I'll let you know what I decide...

It looks like you are going to get "boned" on the cost to repair the car. You really need to look around and spend a little time for the cost of parts. My guess is you could get your rotors and pads for under a hundred bucks. If you've ever done brakes, its about a 2 hour job with a 3/8" drive set, a file and a hammer. I imagine the pulley is roughly the same. If you can fit an extra day into your schedule it will more than likely be worth it. Good luck, hope it works out for you.

 

[bhelms]

Tks again folks. As I have mentioned, unless I get the car moved under someone else's power to my home there's no way I'm going to do this work myself 1,200 miles from my tools and other resources.

I did check with a local Pep Boys and they quoted me about $650 for the idler pulley, belt, and 4 sets of pads and disks, so that alone reduces the cost by almost half. If a PB where the car is (there's one about a mile away) will do the same work for about the same price, that's very likely what I'll do. I want to use a chain in case I have any problems on this end - presumably the local store will make good on the warranties.

More to follow...

 

[Van]

It looks like you are going to get "boned" on the cost to repair the car. You really need to look around and spend a little time for the cost of parts. My guess is you could get your rotors and pads for under a hundred bucks. If you've ever done brakes, its about a 2 hour job with a 3/8" drive set, a file and a hammer. I imagine the pulley is roughly the same. If you can fit an extra day into your schedule it will more than likely be worth it. Good luck, hope it works out for you.

Dont asume that all brake jobs are the same, I've had a few vehicles that had the pressed in bearings, another had the rotor as part of the hub and strut support and a pressed in bearing, another required a special tool to press the caliper piston back in, again as I had suggested earlier it would be best to find out what type of brake system it has before lugging some tools down that way.

Bhelms, why not take a vacation or wait until the up coming long holiday weekend and go down then?

 

[bhelms]

Van - you gotta be kidding...! I can think of much better ways to spend hard-earned vacation time than working on a car in that heat for (probably many!) hours trying to save a couple hundred bucks!

Seriously, there's no way I can do that work down there myself even if I wanted to. Since I need to bring the car back, that means getting there by plane or otherwise in a manner that probably won't allow me to lug a toolbox, and there's nowhere down there for me do do the work, like a friend's or relative's garage.

I realize you and many others here are experienced DIY'ers and would want to handle this kind of situation that way. My automotive maintenance experience was from the days when it was of pure necessity. I have long since stopped doing major work on cars (including things like brakes and most anything under the hood) and instead would rather pay the experts to do their thing. (I still do "wrench" my motorcycles and tractor to a good extent, tho'.)

When in FL at this time of year (like I was just last week!), I need to be inside in AC or else in the water somewhere! And this year with my Mom's problems I have about used-up my available vacation time tending to her matters, before and after...

 

[Bogy]

Tks again folks. As I have mentioned, unless I get the car moved under someone else's power to my home there's no way I'm going to do this work myself 1,200 miles from my tools and other resources.

I did check with a local Pep Boys and they quoted me about $650 for the idler pulley, belt, and 4 sets of pads and disks, so that alone reduces the cost by almost half. If a PB where the car is (there's one about a mile away) will do the same work for about the same price, that's very likely what I'll do. I want to use a chain in case I have any problems on this end - presumably the local store will make good on the warranties.

More to follow...

That sounds much more reasonable. Some years back I had an in-tank fuel pump go out while on vacation. Not much choice, I ended up being towed to a dealership that could do the work that day. I paid about twice what my dealer at home would have charged me. My wife got a call a few days later when we were home with a "customer satisfaction" survey. Were we happy with the work, would we recommend them to others. My wife said, "Yeah, I'd recommend you guys to anyone who had a choice between you doing the work or sitting by the side of the road." OTOH, there was the time on another vacation our timing belt broke. We had a tow truck come and get us off the freeway. He asked me what service station I wanted to be towed to? I said, "That vacant lot right there looks good." I pulled my tools and a spare timing belt that I had picked up with some other odds and ends from my brother in law who was managing an auto parts store and changed it right there.

If you can get the work done for that amount, I'd let them do it, that far from home.

 

[Hall]

A '94 Gran Sport 4D in good condition with 20k miles is worth $2850 (private sale). If you leave off the "sentimental" value aspect, it's probably not worth it, given the estimate repair costs and transportation costs.

 

[Bogy]

A '94 Gran Sport 4D in good condition with 20k miles is worth $2850 (private sale). If you leave off the "sentimental" value aspect, it's probably not worth it, given the estimate repair costs and transportation costs.

I looked at blue book, but without knowing more particulars about the specific car I decided there wasn't really a point in trying to value it. Depends on condition, options, particular model, and of course, a car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Or what the insurance company is willing to write a check for if it gets totaled.

 

[Bob Haller]

your probably better off at least checking a car transport service. e bay has listings they pick up there and haul it to you. go by train or car transit like new vehicles do.

add up savings in airfare time gasoline risk of breakdown etc plus savings getting vehicle repaired locally and ease of warranty service if repair isnt good. dealer might not be too fusy knowing it wouldnt come back

at least you should look into it