New Dish Mounts

rickaren

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Original poster
Supporting Founder
Mar 7, 2004
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Several have asked about mounting in both the D* and E* Forums recently concerning weather tight mounting, tile roofs, soffit and wall mounting or pole. Well just received my new Smarthome catalog and it looks as if they have added several new options at affordable prices that some of you may want to check out. Enjoy and good luck. With all these options (customer pay) it would appear that just about everyone should be able to receive D* or E* these days?

Weather-Tight Satellite Dish Mounting System Eliminates Exposed Wires

Prevent damage to roof and siding
Universal hole pattern supports dishes 18"-36"
Eliminate exposed exterior wiring

If you've wanted to install a satellite dish but have avoided doing so because of the unsightly appearance of the cords on the house, as well as because of the inherent damage done to the roof, you can now rest easily. The CommDeck is a communications and satellite dish mounting system that provides a weather-tight dish-mounting platform designed to look like most roof vents. Whether you're pre-wiring a new home or completing dish or antenna installation today, the CommDeck eliminates the need for exposed wiring or cabling while preventing damage to your roof or siding. RG6 messengered cables are required for installation and are sold separately. A satellite dish is also sold separately.

http://www.smarthome.com/7798C.HTML

12-Inch Satellite Dish Mounting System Won't Damage RoofEasily removed without leaving holes
No cutting of shingles required
No damage to roof materials


Your landlord is far more likely to approve your request for a satellite dish if you can guarantee that his roof won't be damaged. The RetroDeck 12-inch Satellite Dish Mounting System is a solid mounting platform designed for today's dish installations on existing homes: It can be easily removed for future locations without leaving holes in your roof. The SuperDeck has a 16-inch flashing and a universal hole pattern for dishes between 18" and 36". A satellite dish is sold separately.

http://www.smarthome.com/7798S.HTML


SOFFIT MOUNThttp://www.smarthome.com/77531.HTML

WALL MOUNT
http://www.smarthome.com/77532.HTML

POLE MOUNThttp://www.smarthome.com/77534.HTML
 
rickaren said:
Weather-Tight Satellite Dish Mounting System Eliminates Exposed Wires
...
Eliminate exposed exterior wiring ...

Now just how does this pass NEC for grounding? Wouldn't you need a grounding source just inside the roof?
 
noremac said:
Now just how does this pass NEC for grounding? Wouldn't you need a grounding source just inside the roof?

Have never had one grounded myself and have had 2-DISH installs, 1-DirecTV and VOOM and all were professionally (?) installed. Can be an issue in some States, but don't see why it couldn't be grounded from within the attic. Still looks like a better way to install than another hole(s) in your roof, for lines, and it would make a cleaner install.

The main reason I posted these Links are several have posted they couldn't get install of either D* or E* by Company installers for one reason or another. More options than what a lazy installer says, but again maybe not free either.
 
All of these items are expensive solutions to the application. I wonder how many of the roof mounts they sell. It requires basic roofing experience, which as a long term installer, I have. But, how about these low ball fulfillment hacks? Installers who have roofing experience already know how to install for a waterproo seal. Cable entries can be made through the downslope of vents and under eaves. The thing looks like a glorified roof can vent.

For 18 inch dishes, a vent pipe adapter is a good solution. Even a cellular PVC DWV 2 inch nominal vent will support a Dish500, a Dish500 or a Phase III DirecTV dish.

For rafter end eaves, a use a cutoff saw to cut off opposite corners of the mounting foot, so that the mount does not extend below the side of a standard 2x6 rafter.

Mounting on the side of an eave is secure, as long as you put the 3 inch center lag screws into the rafter tail.

A much cheaper and better alternative to the screw in ground pole is an 8 foot chain link line post at $9. Dig a 8 inch x 6 inch deep hole. Auger the center 3-4 ft down with a 2-3 inch diameter auger. Place the pole and plumb it with dirt up to the bottom of the larger diameter top hole. Fill the top hole with about one gallon or 15 pounds of concrete, mixed ultra dry. Tamp and it will support the dish in a half hour. When it comes to removal, dig around the concrete and smash it with a sledge hammer. Remove the concrete. Waddle the pole and pull it out.
 
Mike500 said:
A much cheaper and better alternative to the screw in ground pole is an 8 foot chain link line post at $9. Dig a 8 inch x 6 inch deep hole. Auger the center 3-4 ft down with a 2-3 inch diameter auger. Place the pole and plumb it with dirt up to the bottom of the larger diameter top hole. Fill the top hole with about one gallon or 15 pounds of concrete, mixed ultra dry. Tamp and it will support the dish in a half hour.

OK but how do you keep the pole from rotating? I suggest drilling a hole in the part that's going into the concrete and put a long bolt through it.

Still for those of us whose only real option is a roof the Smarthome items are fairly nice options.
 
aegrotatio said:
OK but how do you keep the pole from rotating? I suggest drilling a hole in the part that's going into the concrete and put a long bolt through it.

Still for those of us whose only real option is a roof the Smarthome items are fairly nice options.


take the end of the pole that goes ino the concrete and smash the sh*t out of the end of the pipe with a hammer, and also drill a couple of holes in the pipe and drill either some lag bolts into the pipe or threaded rod etc...
 
dodge said:
take the end of the pole that goes ino the concrete and smash the sh*t out of the end of the pipe with a hammer, and also drill a couple of holes in the pipe and drill either some lag bolts into the pipe or threaded rod etc...
we use to take the side plates frome the old Superdish roof mounts and bolt them to the bottom of the pipe.
These Smarthome items are cool enough but they require far more forethought that is usually used when doing an install. I have always used just plain silicone and have never had a leak. If done correctly there is no danger of leaks.
 
Last edited:
commdeck

We will be offering a new mount called DeckLock that clamps to a 8" -10" or 12" rimjoist on any style of wood deck material. This is a good product for landlord issues on rental properties as there are no lag bolts or screws used for the installation.

Like Commdeck and Retrodeck, the Decklock is designed and engineered to accept DirecTV, Echostar and WildBlue dishes. (both large and small)
 

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OK but how do you keep the pole from rotating? I suggest drilling a hole in the part that's going into the concrete and put a long bolt through it.

Still for those of us whose only real option is a roof the Smarthome items are fairly nice options.

At DNS, what we do is we bend the last foot of the pole so its kind of like a J, then stick it in the ground. Won't turn. Or if we forget to bend the pole, out in the field we'll take a large water clamp and put it on the first 18"' or so, it wont turn either.

Smarthome is nice, but with a little innovation....
 
All of these items are expensive solutions to the application. I wonder how many of the roof mounts they sell. It requires basic roofing experience, which as a long term installer, I have. But, how about these low ball fulfillment hacks? Installers who have roofing experience already know how to install for a waterproo seal. Cable entries can be made through the downslope of vents and under eaves. The thing looks like a glorified roof can vent.

For 18 inch dishes, a vent pipe adapter is a good solution. Even a cellular PVC DWV 2 inch nominal vent will support a Dish500, a Dish500 or a Phase III DirecTV dish.

For rafter end eaves, a use a cutoff saw to cut off opposite corners of the mounting foot, so that the mount does not extend below the side of a standard 2x6 rafter.

Mounting on the side of an eave is secure, as long as you put the 3 inch center lag screws into the rafter tail.

A much cheaper and better alternative to the screw in ground pole is an 8 foot chain link line post at $9. Dig a 8 inch x 6 inch deep hole. Auger the center 3-4 ft down with a 2-3 inch diameter auger. Place the pole and plumb it with dirt up to the bottom of the larger diameter top hole. Fill the top hole with about one gallon or 15 pounds of concrete, mixed ultra dry. Tamp and it will support the dish in a half hour. When it comes to removal, dig around the concrete and smash it with a sledge hammer. Remove the concrete. Waddle the pole and pull it out.

Commdeck is a nice product..But customers generally will not pay for it....I am not going into my pocket for it....Apparently that is the general consensus..I say that because my supplier stopped selling Commdeck products due to lack of interest...
That pole mount is a disaster....
Our standard pole mount is 5.5 foot galvanized chain link fence post..I use a post hole digger and go down about 12-16 inches....I flair the end of the post with a sledge hammer to about 6".....T take a 2X4 and tamp the enmdof the post into the ground for a little stability while adding concrete....This also pervents the post from turning as I adjust the dish for peak signal...I end up using about 40 lbs of concrete...It makes for a very solid mount..
 
I really like that angled fascia mount in the link provided above.

The wall mounts are nice where you take the actual mount itself, you can use it as a caddy for your single/dual messenger.
 

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