Ok so some of you asked about the new flat cable that dish is testing and I promised that once I was able to get my hands on some I would tell you about it so here goes'
The new flat cable casing is about three times as thick as the previous type used, it is also 3 or so inches longer. I installed the new flat cable on an apartment install and found the following problem(s) and benefit(s).
(1) The double sided sticky tape provided has to be cut to fit so that it will adhere to what ever amount of service area you need it to fit so that it will stay where you want it.
(2) In a doorwall there really is only two locations this can go, at either end where the slider and non slider seats into the frame, the manufacturer recommends a 1/8th of an inch gap to minimize compression and damage to the casing and center conductor.
(3) The thickness of the casing was an issue when installing the flat cable at the end of the non slider, while putting it in I had to remove two screws that held the non slider inplace and while moving it back into place the casing became torn.
(4) The signal strength coming through on the flat cable even heavily compressed was adequate but on a properly peaked D1000 in my best estimates was about 10 - 15 points lower than with a standard coax connection so if your going to go the route of 129 hd then I suggest coming up with another alternative for routing standard coax, if for any other sat reception outside of the 105/121/129 and low signal due to footprint coverage then you should be fine.
(5) The flat cable should be more than fine for any window entry or doorwall entry that is the pre double and triple pain designs, the new designed frames for doorwalls and modern windows are made to be air tight and interlocking and this can from my evalution damage the casing albeing it will take a longer period of time.
Ok so if your in a residence with these new windows and door walls I can recommend the following workarounds for using the flat cable. The window frames are alot like the doorwalls in that there is a lip that the slider sits in thats about half to one inch deep. If you go to your local hardware you can find furing strips that are usually one by one and smaller trim moldings that may be one by one half, get a peice of either depending on the depth of the lip and measure and cut for length to put this into the window frame. You will need to get a window lock bar to keep the window closed and secured, once you have these items put inplace you can run the flat cable between the added slat brace and the window slider and then lock it into place with the lock bar, this should do the least amount of damage to the flat cable. The same can be down with a door wall but I do not recommend it unless your apartment is on the second floor or higher.
The new flat cable casing is about three times as thick as the previous type used, it is also 3 or so inches longer. I installed the new flat cable on an apartment install and found the following problem(s) and benefit(s).
(1) The double sided sticky tape provided has to be cut to fit so that it will adhere to what ever amount of service area you need it to fit so that it will stay where you want it.
(2) In a doorwall there really is only two locations this can go, at either end where the slider and non slider seats into the frame, the manufacturer recommends a 1/8th of an inch gap to minimize compression and damage to the casing and center conductor.
(3) The thickness of the casing was an issue when installing the flat cable at the end of the non slider, while putting it in I had to remove two screws that held the non slider inplace and while moving it back into place the casing became torn.
(4) The signal strength coming through on the flat cable even heavily compressed was adequate but on a properly peaked D1000 in my best estimates was about 10 - 15 points lower than with a standard coax connection so if your going to go the route of 129 hd then I suggest coming up with another alternative for routing standard coax, if for any other sat reception outside of the 105/121/129 and low signal due to footprint coverage then you should be fine.
(5) The flat cable should be more than fine for any window entry or doorwall entry that is the pre double and triple pain designs, the new designed frames for doorwalls and modern windows are made to be air tight and interlocking and this can from my evalution damage the casing albeing it will take a longer period of time.
Ok so if your in a residence with these new windows and door walls I can recommend the following workarounds for using the flat cable. The window frames are alot like the doorwalls in that there is a lip that the slider sits in thats about half to one inch deep. If you go to your local hardware you can find furing strips that are usually one by one and smaller trim moldings that may be one by one half, get a peice of either depending on the depth of the lip and measure and cut for length to put this into the window frame. You will need to get a window lock bar to keep the window closed and secured, once you have these items put inplace you can run the flat cable between the added slat brace and the window slider and then lock it into place with the lock bar, this should do the least amount of damage to the flat cable. The same can be down with a door wall but I do not recommend it unless your apartment is on the second floor or higher.
