Hi, I'm replacing my current antenna with an HD antenna. It currently has old RG5 along the entire run. Do I need RG6 or will RG5 work? It's about 80 feet.
New HD antenna RG5 ok?
- Thread starter newbeestl
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Do you mean RG-59? I have never heard of RG-5.
If the cable is old; I would replace it with RG-6 anyway. The UHF performance will be much better with RG-6.
Glen
If the cable is old; I would replace it with RG-6 anyway. The UHF performance will be much better with RG-6.
Glen
Yes, replace the old RG59 with new RG6. What antenna do you currently have and what are you replacing it with?
If the RG-59 is in good condition it will work for OTA just as well as RG6. It is not carrying voltage like satellite cable unless you are using a pre amp. Satellite signal goes up to 2.5 ghz TV antenna is low frequency by comparison. In reality RG6 is better than RG59 but 99% of the time you will see no difference.
I strongly disagree,
For a run of 80 feet I would strongly recommend RG-6 unless it will be used for VHF only. UHF signals will be noticably affected with a run that long; especially marginal stations. For a very small investment you can greatly increase your digital signal "reliability". Analog snow can be bearable, but digital dropouts are "always" annoying.
Glen
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Do you mean RG-59? I have never heard of RG-5.
If the cable is old; I would replace it with RG-6 anyway. The UHF performance will be much better with RG-6.
Glen
Maybe it's a Chinese knock-off down at the flea market.
I will say I've had good luck with RG-59 for OTA and for the most part with DBS. But for the tiny difference in price I'd certainly recommend RG-6. You may be glad you did later.
Reading for everyone's Info
RG59 vs. RG6
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RG59
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable#Standards
RG59 vs. RG6
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RG59
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable#Standards
Another inaccuracy. The satellite signal is converted to a much lower UHF frequency(around 450 MHZ) by the LNB to facilitate longer cable runs without excessive signal loss. OTA frequencies go over well over 700MHZ. (Apples & Oranges) How can someone have over 4300 posts and speel out such inaccuracies???? "Please look before you leap". It's hard to believe no one else questioned this. I don't even have satellite. I can't post URL's yet ; but a quick google search (LNB) should fill in any blanks.
BTW; thanks guys for the info on RG-59 vs. RG-6 cable.
Glen
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Thanks for the responses! I'm upgrading from a 25 year old VHF only to a Terk HDtv Amplified Antenna. Link - Amazon.com: Terk HDtv Antenna Amplified: Electronics
Sounds like I should upgrade to RG6, especially since it's amplified?
Sounds like I should upgrade to RG6, especially since it's amplified?
Another inaccuracy. The satellite signal is converted to a much lower UHF frequency(around 450 MHZ) by the LNB to facilitate longer cable runs without excessive signal loss. OTA frequencies go over well over 700MHZ. (Apples & Oranges) How can someone have over 4300 posts and speel out such inaccuracies???? "Please look before you leap". It's hard to believe no one else questioned this. I don't even have satellite. I can't post URL's yet ; but a quick google search (LNB) should fill in any blanks.
BTW; thanks guys for the info on RG-59 vs. RG-6 cable.
Glen
From Wikipedia
LNBFs
Ku-band linear-polarised LNBF
Direct broadcast satellite (DBS) dishes use an LNBF (NB feedhorn), which integrates the antenna feedhorn with the LNB. Small diplexers are often used to distribute the resulting IF signal (usually 950 to 1450 MHz) piggybacked in the same cable TV wire that carries lower-frequency terrestrial television from an outdoor antenna. Another diplexer then separates the signals to the receiver of the TV set, and the integrated receiver/decoder (IRD) of the DBS set-top box.
Newer Ka band systems use additional IF blocks from the LNBF, one of which will cause interference to UHF and cable TV frequencies above 250 MHz, precluding the use of diplexers. The other block is higher than the original, up to 2.5 GHz, requiring the LNB to be connected to high-quality all-copper RG-6/U cables. This is in addition to higher electrical power and electrical current requirements for multiple dual-band LNBFs.
For some satellite Internet and free-to-air (FTA) signals, a universal LNB (Ku band) is recommended. Most North American DBS signals use circular polarization, instead of linear polarization, therefore requiring a different LNB type for proper reception. In this case, the polarization must be adjusted between clockwise and counterclockwise, rather than horizontal and vertical.
In the case of DBS, the voltage supplied by the set-top box to the LNB determines the polarisation setting. With multi-TV systems, a dual LNB allows both to be selected at once by a switch, which acts as a distribution amplifier. The amplifier then passes the proper signal to each box according to what voltage each has selected. The newest systems may select polarization and which LNBF to use by sending DiSEqC codes instead. The oldest satellite systems actually powered a rotating antenna on the feedhorn, at a time when there was typically only one LNB or LNA on a very large TVRO dish.
Good choice in antennas. :up That's the one I have in my attic and it works great.
You guys paid more that $30 for that antenna? I am not being a smartass when I say there are far better choices for the same and less money.
Charper 1 I agree for $75 they could have bought a real antenna. But I also admit for many of us TERK is a four letter word.
Another inaccuracy. The satellite signal is converted to a much lower UHF frequency(around 450 MHZ) by the LNB to facilitate longer cable runs without excessive signal loss. OTA frequencies go over well over 700MHZ. (Apples & Oranges) How can someone have over 4300 posts and speel out such inaccuracies???? "Please look before you leap". It's hard to believe no one else questioned this. I don't even have satellite. I can't post URL's yet ; but a quick google search (LNB) should fill in any blanks.
BTW; thanks guys for the info on RG-59 vs. RG-6 cable.
Glen
It's unfortunate YOU would post such incorrect information. DirecTV signals have IF frequencies from the OTA band (for the DirecTV b-band satellites DirecTV 10 and 11) up to 2.15Ghz, thay are absolutely NOT below OTA. I don't know where your information came from but it's completely wrong.
Give me an example.....
This Terk is proven and for the distance I am out from the broadcast towers, it's perfect (about 42 miles). I "one-clicked" on Amazon and it was shipped to my door for free. Showed up 3 days later.....:up
Here you go. Hope this review helps. I love the CM4228 and you can build your own for less than $10. http://www.satelliteguys.us/hd-over-air-ota/119733-very-good-2-00-homemade-antenna-hdtv.html
As you may have gathered, Terk is generally not thought highly of. It is generally viewed as good looking, poorly performing (often), and over priced (always). They are sold in B&Ms due to their high profit margin and visual appeal to people that do not know much about antennas. That said, some Terks do work for some, under some circumstances. Keep in mind that having a Terk antenna on your house is often interpreted by knowledgeable people that you were suckered.
Regarding RG-59 vs RG-6. Of course, always pay the slight premium for RG-6 when laying new cable. But I must say there is something else to consider. LOOK at the casing. If you can clearly see the braid under the outer plastic case, buy elsewhere. I wanted a better quality spool than you can get at a certain big box HW store, so I bought one at an electrical supply house. Didn't even look at it, it was wrapped heavily in plastic. Got it home, saw it, decided to run it anyway due to time constraints. "There's never enough time to do it right, but there's always enough time to do it over." I had to re-run some lines, it was prone to breakage and apparently was somewhat lacking in the frequency range department. Turns out, the HW store stuff was much better after all.
Regarding RG-59 vs RG-6. Of course, always pay the slight premium for RG-6 when laying new cable. But I must say there is something else to consider. LOOK at the casing. If you can clearly see the braid under the outer plastic case, buy elsewhere. I wanted a better quality spool than you can get at a certain big box HW store, so I bought one at an electrical supply house. Didn't even look at it, it was wrapped heavily in plastic. Got it home, saw it, decided to run it anyway due to time constraints. "There's never enough time to do it right, but there's always enough time to do it over." I had to re-run some lines, it was prone to breakage and apparently was somewhat lacking in the frequency range department. Turns out, the HW store stuff was much better after all.
My sincere apologies to Boba for the frequency inaccuracy issue!! I guess I was the one who "leaped before he looked". I will be more careful in the future!! I based my statement on my Dish network system from many years ago (WOOPS!!).
I do agree with Navychop on the coax purchase. I purchased Carol Cable from Home Depot and have had extremely good results. There are huge ingress concerns here with 3 powerful FM stations above 0db(One is at + 11.7 db;OUCH!!) I'm sure there are higher quality cables out there; but for 100 feet or so runs; this cable should work fine; even with no amplification.
Glen
I do agree with Navychop on the coax purchase. I purchased Carol Cable from Home Depot and have had extremely good results. There are huge ingress concerns here with 3 powerful FM stations above 0db(One is at + 11.7 db;OUCH!!) I'm sure there are higher quality cables out there; but for 100 feet or so runs; this cable should work fine; even with no amplification.
Glen
