Noob Question

[slackjaw3]

Hello everyone.
Reading your posts over the last few months has made me very excited to get into this hobby!

I got all the pieces together and finally got my first install done about a month ago.
After days of troubleshooting and getting my install to a plumb 90 degree I DID get my motorized set up AND pointed correctly at my southernmost (77W)
Was very exciting.
No problem using USALS and moving to Galaxy 19 and pulled in a lot there (who knew there were Thai Christians?)
Now I have switched to a dual C/Ku set up but I am not pulling in anything.

Here is my setup:

NS741U ---> DMS SW-21k Switch -- > Digipower SG-2100 Diseq motor ---> Diplexer----> DC power-pass 3 way slitter ---> either X2 Premium HD FTA receiver or Nano Premium (older but seems to work better especially with USALS)

90 CM offset (I wish I could have a 10 foot BUD! but I live in a "community")

WAS quad out Invacom QPH-031. Got it set up correctly, was pulling both circular and linear Ku signals
NOW I have switched the LNB to a WSI NS741U dual C / Ku

I get nothing.
I know there are both positive and negative reviews of this model,
I have heard a Conical scaler helps, so I replaced the one it came with with a conical version.

Also understood you can NOT use a 22khz switch with a universal LNB (which the Ku side IS) however, the marketing material says it is switch-LESS and the dealer even included a 22khz switch with the LNB so I am pretty sure its OK

I brought my monitor and receiver out to play around with the Focal point and skew, but nothing really changes.

questions are
1) any idea why I am not pulling in anything? I have tried bypassing the switch and going straight to both C and Ku sides (though not 100% sure which side is which) . Nothing.
Have tried using both 10600 LO and 10750 LO, Nothing.
Have tried 5150 C Band Side too. Nothing
(both of these on Galaxy 19, Ku also on 77W even though its circular)

2) Don't expect to get tons of C band stuff but should be able to get some from DC right? Would upgrading from my 90Cm dish to the maximum permissible 100cm dish help substantially?

3) does it matter if I use the Ku or C side with the 22khz On or off? have tried both but no difference

I know these dual C/ Ku units are looked down upon, but I should still be able to pull something
Have tried everything i can think of. Skew, Focal point change, the ol' in-out in-out. nothing.

Attached some pictures.
Yes the dish is plumb 90 degrees on all sides (I rent, so cant really drill holes in my roof ;-)

 

[KE4EST]

Welcome to SatelliteGuys!
The C-Band side is the larger Gray one, the orange is the Ku.
I would start with 99W for some C-band. THe LeSEA mux at 4000 is the place to start.
Make sure your skew is set right on the LNBF.
Also play with the up and down of the lnbf bracket, to make sure you are aimed at the sweet spot of the dish.
I myself never had much luck with Ku on a small dish with one of those C/Ku combo's, the Ku lnbf is not at the optimum focal distance.
The last batch sold of those WSI models were labeled wrong on the Ku side and had issues. I started having so many returns I stopped selling them.
Start with C-Band on 99W and no switch and go from there.

 

[Titanium]

Welcome to SatelliteGuys. You are off to a great start and have accomplished the hardest part of any install, tracking the arc with the motorized dish! Congrats!

Like KE4EST sugggests, you might catch a few C-band signals with a 90cm, but only the strongest like LESEA on 99w. Even then, everything will need to be optimized to lock even the strongest C-band transponder.

1. When the C/KU feedhorn is installed, the mount may have raised the center of the feedhorn above the center of the previous KU LNBF, moved the feedhorn opening closer/further away from the reflector or changed where the feedhorn is pointed into the reflector. Reinstall the KU LNBF aim at 99w and take note of an active and working transponder (Example: 11800 H 30000). Make a template of the position and aiming of the OEM mounted LNBF. Now install the C-band clamp so it can position the C/KU feedhorn opening in the exact position and angle.

The C-band LNBF output is the forward port and the KU is the back port in the orange plastic cover. You are correct that the WSI C/KU's KU LNBF is Universal LO and typically is not used in conjunction with a 22KHz switch due to the potential conflicts. The seller should have included a DiSEqC switch and not a 22KHz type. You can make a 22KHz switch work by connecting the 22KHz port to the KU port, but this might be confusing when first starting out. Let's first connect straight to the KU section without the switch inline. Set the install menu to 99w KU and the LNBF type to Universal and the LO setting to 9750/10600. This will grey out the 22KHz switch setting as it becomes automatic when Universal LNB type is selected. Do not install the dielectric slab in the feedhorn throat, as this only is useful for C-band circular polarity signals and there are none on 97w. Do not install the scalar at this point. Select the active transponder and verify that the Signal Quality reading is good and high as with the previous KU LNBF. If not, optimize by adjusting the feedhorn forward and aft and slight adjustments to the skew.

Once KU-band is coming in on 99w, it is time to check C-band. Set the Install menu to 99w C-band, the LNB type to Single (or Standard) with LO frequency of 5150. Select the LESEA transponder (4000 H 26400). The transponder should be giving some Quality meter reading. If not, try adjusting the feedhorn forward and aft and slight adjustments to the skew. Once Signal Quality reading is optimized, add the conical scalar and position to optimize the Signal Quality reading. Now adjust the feedhorn forward and aft and slight adjustments to the skew, then the scalar again. Repeat between the feedhorn and the scalar adjustment until the Signal Quality reading is peaked.

2. Doubt that a 100cm will give much more C-band than with a 90cm. Probably not worth the extra cost with minimal gain. It will still only receive the absolute strongest transponders. I would suggest that the minimum size for a microBUD is a 1.2m as it will provide more gain and a few more transponders.

3. If using the 22K switch, the C-band LNBF will be connected to 22KHz OFF port and the KU sLNBF will be connected to the 22KHz ON port. To trigger the switch for KU operation the KU LNB type is set to Single (or standard) with LO setting of 10600 and the 22KHz menu setting to ON. To trigger the switch for C-band, the 22KHz menus setting will be set to OFF.

 

[FTA4PA]

Welcome to Satellite Guys slackjaw3!

 

[danristheman]

Welcome to the site if you need help with your mini bud just ask I am proud minibudder.

 

[slackjaw3]

Thank you to everyone for the warm welcome and your help!

I am following your suggestions and taking off the switch and scaler to start with and testing on 99W at 4000

I played with it for a little bit today but wasn't able to get much closer.
Titanium, I think you're right in that the mount is not centered as the previous one was.
I did figure out that my signal meter was useless as the LNB is a 70 db gain and the meter is for a max 60.
Need to get an attenuator tomorrow and plug that in.
Very cold and windy here now so I will try to give it another go over the weekend.
Thanks again