PowerMax Vbox X Transformer?

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KE4EST

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If you are keeping it you could do like Brian said or you could move the whole circuit with new transformer to another case of some kind. Maybe you have something lying around or use something like this:
 

johnnynobody

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I didn't realize that you were going to try and swap the transformers. Sorry, if I had known, would have pointed out the size dimensions. BTW, it is even to tall to fit in the ASC1 case (and the ASC1 case is LARGE)! :eeek

Why not put the transformer in a separate enclosure and run the wires in a braided sleeve or split loom?
Either I'll do that or go buy a project box and move all the components to it. Having the transformer in a separate box would be cumbersome if I wanted to take it out to the antenna for realignment purposes. Too bad I couldn't find an exact replacement for the transformer. But, that's what happens if you don't have a schematic and parts list.
 
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johnnynobody

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Since I can't find an economical enclosure, I'll have to look around for a transformer that'll fit the existing case or just go buy a new dish mover.
If you are keeping it you could do like Brian said or you could move the whole circuit with new transformer to another case of some kind. Maybe you have something lying around or use something like this:
Like what? I don't see a link.
 

KE4EST

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Strange link is showing here and is showing in your quote.
 

KE4EST

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Here is is again in code tags so you will have to cope and paste.
Code:
https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-E989R-12x12x6-Junction-Box/dp/B002712AOE/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=satell01-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=&creativeASIN=B002712AOE
 

primestar31

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IF you use an ad-blocker, you can't see links that are posted normally, such as the above. To see them, you have to shutdown your ad blocker temporarily.
 

johnnynobody

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I didn't realize that you were going to try and swap the transformers. Sorry, if I had known, would have pointed out the size dimensions. BTW, it is even to tall to fit in the ASC1 case (and the ASC1 case is LARGE)! :eeek

Why not put the transformer in a separate enclosure and run the wires in a braided sleeve or split loom?
I finally got around to trying to get the Vbox-X up and running with the new transformer tonight. The Vbox got VERY hot and an electrolytic cap exploded and I got a lot of smoke. I ran for the fire extinguisher but I didn't need it. The transformer has split secondary windings that put out 18 VAC each and 36 VAC when the windings are in series. But, I had 40VAC where the original transformer yellow wires were connected and 20 VAC where the blue wires went. I didn't think that the higher voltages would've been a problem but apparently it is. The Vbox did work for about 10 minutes and moved the dish just fine so I have to conclude that I connected up the transformer OK. I even installed a panel mount fuse holder with a 2A fuse but the fuse never blew. Oh well, I'm not going to put any more time or money into this. Looks like one of my Gbox units isn't working properly anymore, also, and one of the transformer outputs is 14 VAC - which probably explains why it sends the dish to the limits on occasion. Anyway, since there doesn't appear to be any Gbox/Vbox units available I'll have to budget for an ASC1. I like fancy tech like the ASC1 but I'm "cheap".
 

johnnynobody

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I decided to make one last check. The motor was getting 40 VDC and the reed sensor was getting 24 VDC. The Gbox units were applying 36 VDC to the motor and 17VDC to the sensor. With a suitable transformer this Vbox will probably work. Apparently, this transformer is providing too high of voltage even though the specs say it is compatible. Signal Transformer A41-175-36L.
 

Lone Gunman

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Heh, usually then you "let the smoke out", electronic stuff quits working? If it blew up a cap I'd be willing to bet that it took something else with it in the process. I hate it when that happens.
 

johnnynobody

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What is the maximum current draw on your system measured when lifting off the bottom of the arc? I once measured a Von Weiss actuator lifting a gigantic 5m fiberglass dish off the bottom of the arc (maybe 450-500lb lift) @ 3.5amps running. I would be surprised if your dish and actuator comes close to 2 amps under load.
I finally measured the current draw. It was only 1.5A DC when lifting from the bottom of the east arc - looked like there was a momentary surge of around 3A though. The dish is a KTI 12 and the actuator a QARL-3624 powered by a Gbox. I need to keep a record of all this stuff for future troubleshooting but I'll probably forget where I put it.
 

johnnynobody

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Heh, usually then you "let the smoke out", electronic stuff quits working? If it blew up a cap I'd be willing to bet that it took something else with it in the process. I hate it when that happens.
I saw an article in QST on how to make the stuff work again by installing a screw so you put the smoke back inside. :biggrin2
 

Lone Gunman

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I saw an article in QST on how to make the stuff work again by installing a screw so you put the smoke back inside. :biggrin2
Be sure to let us know how that works for ya!

RE: The amp draw, These Vbox 7s and the Motek Vbox that are here have fuses in the 36v circuit. IIRC the Vbox 7s are 3 amp and the Motek Vbox has a 5 amp in it. I blew one of those last year so I replaced the 3 amp with a 5, just so I could make MORE smoke when it went. :clapping I'm using that one and have been since I did that with no explosions to date, knock on wood! :oldwink

RE: The forgot where you put it....... I spent 45 minutes in the shop the other day looking for the 4 new computer motherboard CMOS batteries I got back in December. I usually leave those laying on the monitor base on my work table but remembered moving them to another location to get them out of the way. Yup, it's called C. R. S.! Anyway, when I finally found them, I remembered putting them there? :coco
 
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johnnynobody

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Well, as it turns out, the transformer that I bought is for 115 VAC but my line voltage is 123 VAC which results in the 36 VAC coming out at 40 VAC and the 18 VAC came out as 20 VAC. The Vbox did not like that. I figure that if I had ordered a transformer that was 33 VAC CT on the secondary would work. But then if the line voltage were to drop to 115 VAC I'd only have 33 VAC going to the actuator. It would probably still power the actuator? The only one at mouser that would work would be http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/166J33/?qs=LnCj936TGbXowh6CLOuRkg==.

I haven't checked on the dimensions but I'll bet it'll fit the existing enclosure. The factory lead time is 3 weeks so it'll be awhile before I can report back.
 

waylew

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Variations in line voltage is the reason devices have voltage regulators.Line voltage can vary quite a bit depending on where you are.I doubt the transformer rating caused your problem,note I didn't go back and reread the thread so I don't remember exactly what the problem was.
 
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KE4EST

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That 20V would be run through a rectifier and that would drop it about 1.4V and at the same time turn it in to a rough DC and then you would have a regulator and some capacitors.
You are not going to get a different result with the transformer you just posted. There is something more wrong with that board than the transformer.
 

johnnynobody

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Since I don't have a schematic it's hard to determine what the problem is. I could spend time creating a schematic but I'll just go buy a new dish mover. I have a Gbox that isn't working properly either so I guess I'll have to go spend even more money.
 

johnnynobody

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Maybe I'm looking at the schematic wrong but it doesn't look like a complete schematic. Anyway, I might try to fix the thing but I decided to part with the money for an ASC-1. This and the XR-3+plugin puts me way overbudget for the month. I need to replace another actuator also. I don't know, maybe I should just go strictly OTA and Netflix.
 
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