Problem V-Box

[mister_dk]

When I originally setup my hardware, I had a BUD with a BSC621 that was running through a V-Box. I had just a couple of satellites that I was able to get any type of signal at all. Both only C band. All of a sudden and for no apparent reason, I lost all signal. The dish would move between the satellites but no signal. I assumed that there was something wrong with the BSC621. So I ordered a new DMX741U and installed it. Still no signal. I had a signal strength meter and it was not showing any signal as I moved the dish. Checked the cabling, but did not find any visible problems. I decided to purchased another signal strength meter from the local Radio Shack and it did the same thing. Finally I moved the dish to what had previously locked in at 123.0, disconnected the coax from the V-Box and connected them directly to the signal strength meter. Bang.. meter was pegged. Based on this, it looks like there is something wrong with the V-Box. The toy budget doesn't allow for the replacement of the V-Box (especially after the new DMX741 and the RS signal meter). So here is the question. Can I put a splitter in the line so that I have the coax coming from the receiver to the splitter. Then one leg of the splitter going to the V-Box and the other leg going to the dish? This way I can still send the signal to the box to move the dish and have a signal to/from the dish? Would I be able to use any standard splitter? or would it require a special rated splitter?

Thanks

 

[meinename]

I would think that using a splitter rated for 900-1450MHz or 900-2200MHz would work fine. However I wonder if a Diplexer with power-pass going to the LNB would work. Unless power-pass is needed for DiSEqC to work.

Some thing like this is what you're asking for:
http://impaktproducts.com/2-Way-Splitter-Power-Passive-All-Port-p-16277.html

Feel free to point out the flaws in that plan.

 

[Lak7]

Is it possible that the cable from the receiver to the VBox is bad?

 

[mister_dk]

Is it possible that the cable from the receiver to the VBox is bad?

I get good signal if I bypass the V-box. If I connect to V-Box, no signal.

 

[Lak7]

I get good signal if I bypass the V-box. If I connect to V-Box, no signal.

Let me re-phrase my question.
Can you replace the VBox with a Barrel Connector, proving all the cables are good?
Then double check your connections to the VBox, making sure you have the "Receiver" port going to the Receiver and "LNB" port going to the LNB

If that checks out, I'd disconnect and unplug the VBox, remove cover, and look for a bad Solder Joint on the "LNB" Connector.

 

[mister_dk]

If that checks out, I'd disconnect and unplug the VBox, remove cover, and look for a bad Solder Joint on the "LNB" Connector.

This is the only thing that I did not try. When I get home tonight, I will give it a try.

 

[mister_dk]

look for a bad Solder Joint on the "LNB" Connector

Checked it all over and could not find anything that was loose or unattached. Maybe I will have to wait until the wife gets so that she likes having some of these channels. ThenI can use that as an excuse, I mean reason, to get a new dish/motor form Sadoun.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Lak7]

For the time being, try a High Freq. splitter with power passing on both sides.

 

[mister_dk]

The splitter seems to work fine. I haven't had much time recently to do much playing, I mean testing , over the last few days.

Thanks so much for the help.

 

[Cascade]

mister_dk, shot in the dark with this one, if you're comfortable opening the V-Box up you may find one of the capacitors either swollen or blown. I had almost the same problem with mine.
IIRC they're 470uF@50V and tied to the relays but looking at the PCB they're also part of the signal path - I may be wrong, it was a long time ago.


Usual disclaimers apply, if you're not proficient with electronics etc I wouldn't touch them.

 

[mister_dk]

mister_dk, shot in the dark with this one, if you're comfortable opening the V-Box up you may find one of the capacitors either swollen or blown. I had almost the same problem with mine.
IIRC they're 470uF@50V and tied to the relays but looking at the PCB they're also part of the signal path - I may be wrong, it was a long time ago.


Usual disclaimers apply, if you're not proficient with electronics etc I wouldn't touch them.

I never thought of looking at the caps when I had it open before. After having motherboard replacements on about 90 Dells for that problem, you would think that I would look for such things. I will pop it open again and take a look as soon as I have a little time. Thanks for the suggestion.