Putting Sat feed Wires Through a Roof

[chapcory]

I'm puttin a D* 5lnb on my steep shingle roof, nowhere near a soffit.
I wonder what is the best way to run the RG6's through a hole in the roof.
(Besides just tarrin' the heck out of a slot)

Maybe something like a electrical service entrance weatherhead? or sewer vent with gooseneck?

TIA,
Chap Cory

 

[Todd Humphrey]

The best method is using an electrical conduit, flashing, and weather head as you stated.

Sometimes you can slide a coax underneath and existing flashing on the down slop side. At the ridge cap, you may have a vent. With help, you can sometimes fish a coax through a small hole in this vent.

Is this a wood shake roof? If Yes, you need to reconsider your dish location. Unless you are planning to run a mast through the roof, you cannot attach a dish to a wood shake roof. Well you can, but it not a smart idea. The mast can become loose as the wood shakes compress over time. It is also VERY hard to seal and secure properly.

 

[HCI]

This is a diagram we use for canopy mounted dishes to get the wire to roof level. I have also used this with a flange on flat roofs with success.

 

[HCI]

Here is the detail box.

 

[Todd Humphrey]

Those will not work well on a steep pitched roof.

 

[chapcory]

Thanks guys..
Roof is Asphalt Shingles, about 45 degree pitch, no ridge vent.
I think i'll duplicate what the plumber used for a 1.5 inch vent pipe (std flashing),
but use grey pipe with a sweeping el like in Tates dwg.
To make my job tougher, I can't get to the underside of the roof, all the suuport of the pipe has to be from the top. I'll use a flange under the flashing.
chap

 

[Mike500]

How to install a roof cable entrance.

I'd go out and get a piece of 1-1/4" PVC conduit, a couple of same size 2 hole clamps, a service entrance head, and a vent flashing.

Go into the attic, using a 1-3/4" hole saw. Start it flat with the sheathing right next to a rafter. As it it cutting part way through, tilt the hole saw, until it is plumb. Outside; using a large putty knife or a dry wall taping knife, carefully lift the shingles around the hole. Remove any roofing nails at least a foot radius around the hole. Place the flashing over the hole, and cut a circular "U" out to match the flashing raised area plus 1 inch all around, starting at or below the center of the hole. Slide the flashing under the shingles, matching the raise area. Shove an 18 inch long piece of pvc conduit through the flashing and the hole in the sheathing. Inside the attic, strap the condiut to the rafter. Outside, nail down the bottom corners of the flashing and replace any nails taken out that held the shingles. Glue on the cable entrance weatherhead.

This is the correct and truly professional method for a roof entry.

 

[HCI]

Those will not work well on a steep pitched roof.

You can use the same concept. Just use a vent flange just like you would on a vent pipe. You can get these as small as 1 1/2.

 

[Mike500]

Better yet, if you are experienced at plumbing, secure a two inch straight vertical pole through the flashing, mount the dish to the top of the pole. Use a "tee" with a side oulet. Place a large radius elbow on the side outlet with the open end positioned upward. Connect the bottom of the "tee" to another "tee" spliced to an existing plumbing vent pipe.

Run the coax through the center hole in the dish mount through the pipe to the side outlet of the elbow and up through the open end of the sweep bend. Seal the hole around the wires.

This makes for one of the neatest roof installations possible.

 

[Todd Humphrey]

Capycory said he cannot get to the underside of the roof, therefor attaching the conduit to a rafter, or securing the mast to mount the dish on, is not an option.

You would not use sweep anything at the top, use a weather head.

If you cannot get the underside, then you are left installing support struts and securing the conduit to the roof. With all that, you might be better off just drilling a small hole and using tar, or other sealant rated for asphalt roofing, to seal the hole. I would place the point of entry so that you can access it without having to walk on the roof (if you can). This will make maintenance on the penetration easier.

 

[Jared Twomey]

i use these pretty often...
nice and clean and perfect for prewires

http://www.rstcenterprises.com/our_products/commdeck.phtml

 

[Commdeck]

Thanks for using the Commdeck Birddoggy.

Ron Dickerson
Commdeck

 

[Commdeck]

Commdeck vs. pvc "gooseneck" and flashing....

If you are going to install a pvc pipe with flashing you still have to lag bolt through your customers shingles. The pvc pipe will also create condensation and drip into the attic insulation and sheetrock.

Commdeck installs easier than the gooseneck and you mount directly to the lid. No condensation issues....You can also upgrade or change dishes with no lag bolt damage. Commdeck is also approved by WildBlue, DirecTV and Dish. If you need support arms, there is a clip that installs under the shingles as well...www.commdeck.com

Ron Dickerson

 

[chapcory]

Do you folks use weatherheads from elec supply/home depot, or is there something specific for this industry?

 

[Todd Humphrey]

Commdeck vs. pvc "gooseneck" and flashing....
The pvc pipe will also create condensation and drip into the attic insulation and sheetrock.

So every PVC pipe used for electrical and plumbing causes condensation??

An attic is vented to allow for moisture flowing up from the living areas an chance to escape. The only way the moisture in the attic can condense is when it is exposed to something cold enough to cause condensation. When it is cold outside anything than conducts that cold from the outside to the warmer attic is a potential source of condensation.

Some areas have building codes that only allow plastic vent pipes because plastic is a poor conductor and does NOT create a condensation problem. METAL vent pipes have been a problem for some.

The commdeck unit works great for new construction, but when applied to an existing roof where you cannot get it under the shakes, you have to install MANY more lag screws than what is required for any dish. Plus they are usually installed over living space. To service a dish you have to walk on the roof.

I still prefer good old fashion lag screws set into rafters and sealed with tar. Installed at the eaves where you can access the dish without leaving the ladder.

Installed of course to the DBS National Installation Standards

 

[Commdeck]

Todd,

I am not stating that every pvc pipe used for electrical and plumbing will create condensation. Typical pvc installations run through the attic insulation and into the dwelling. A plastic pvc pipe that is cut off and stubbed into the attic (in northern climates) can and has created condensation. This information came to me from the risk management team at Centex homes in Minneapolis, MN.

What do you suggest that installers do with the existing foot that is mounted with lag screws when your customer wants to get upgraded to a larger dish and foot?

The Commdeck or Retrodeck allows the installer to swap out or remove the dish easily with no future damage.

If you are going to install on a customers roof, why not upsell a mounting system that passes satellite and roofing industry specifications and engineering? Why not make more $ per installation without worrying about future damage?

I realize that every installation has many options and Commdeck and Retrodeck are not always going to work...I used to manage over 200 dish installers working for an HSP.

Our product line has been developed with a goal to build a stronger relationship between the Satellite industry and Builders/Developers/Management companies/Landlords. We have many of the Nations largest Single family and Multi-Family Builders that are setting up their buildings for the Satellite Industry by incorporating Commdeck.

The company goal is to have every new single family and multi-family home pre-wired for satellite to compete directly with Cable. We are making great progress.

"Good old fashion lag bolts" blown through the shingles, eaves and siding just don't make alot of sense to homeowners, management companies and landlords when there are other options.

 

[Todd Humphrey]

On an existing home the Commdeck does not require any less roof penitration than a standard mount. On a new home, that is being pre-wired, it is GREAT product, but for aftermarket upgrade, I do not see the advantages. When I mount a dish to a roof on the overhange portion of the roof, I am only making 6 holes. All sealed with tar. IF the dish and mast have to be removed, you remove the base, and reinstall the bolts into the roof. Apply a fresh covering of tar and unless you are looking for the spot, no one sees it.
I cannot imagine the commdeck unit, installed on the over hang portion of a roof with no dish. It would look out of place.

If a customer want to pay for an installer to cut a HOLE in the roof, over living space, and have the cable routed through the attic. And, that installer uses tar to seal the flashing base of the commdeck, then great, but I see installers who carry NO tar or other asphalt roof sealant , and use RTV on asphalt roofs. Should those guys be installing a commdeck?

PVC pipe, cut-off in the attic, would only cause condensation because the outside cold air would tavel down the pipe, resulting in the pipe being colder than the attic temp. A pipe that runs into the home would transfer some of the heat from the heated section of the home, up through the pipe, keeping it warmer.
Solution: If you install a conduit, and cut it off in the attic, stuff some insulation into the conduit at the roof. This will keep the cold air out and allow the conduit in the attic, to remain at the temp of the attic. No condensation.

 

[Commdeck]

The Retrodeck product is designed more for an aftermarket upgrade. It does not house the cable but offers a steel mounting platform, installs under the shingles and is now being used by many installers to make more $$ per install without damaging the customers roof.

I like your condensation solution of using insulation for the pvc application....this will also help keep critters out of the attic. I agree that all installers do not carry roofing cement or tar with them (even though it is part of the DBS Installation National Standards)

All of our products are designed as options....with the professional installer in mind. The products offer an up-sell opportunity, solid steel mounting platform, are engineered and approved by the satellite industry and will not create any roof warranty issues if installed per our instructions.

I have attached a couple of pics of our newest product soon to be released called the DeckLock. DeckLock is designed to clamp to to rimjoist of any 8" - 12" deck. This damage free mount does not require any lag bolts and will create less landlord permission issues.

Let me know if you would like samples of our product line. I am certainly not looking to bash the way installers are going about their business. We are simply offering options.

Our company is also looking for Nation wide installers looking to diversify their business. Companies that we can refer to Builders and Developers looking for a "one stop shop". Pre-wire and Dish install.

 

[Todd Humphrey]

How can you attach a dish to a roof without putting holes in the roof?

 

[Jared Twomey]

How can you attach a dish to a roof without putting holes in the roof?

With the retrodeck the lag bolts go under the shingles, ya know... where the shingles are nailed down at. So that there is not visible holes if you decide to remove the thing later, and it is a whole lot harder for it to leak.
so yeah, there are still a couple holes, but they are under the shingles, and not visible.
In my experience, makes landlords a WHOLE lot happier.