Someone Please Help!

[jself1982]

As you all know I'm moving a c-band to my house!
Ok, got the c-band hooked up, now I got a problem, on my Uniden 4400;

First, I am getting an actuator error, but if I mess with the wire to the actuator I start getting counts on the screen until I let go of the wire to the actuator...I can also get the actuator to move by pressing E/W key until it gives me an error again. Is my actuator bad or did I connect something wrong? My wires are Red/Black/Blue/Brown, just exactly where do they go on the actuator? And if this doesn't work, how do I use a drill to change the position? It's a superjack II. The wires that connected to it before where red/white/green/orange, which one of my colors will go where? Keep in mind that as I jiggled the wires I would get an actuator count on the screen and not the actuator error message.

Second, I got a crystal clear picture on G5/3 and a bunch of channels that said Authorization needed...does this mean I am on track?

Otherwise, hopefully I can get back to it when the shower stops. But can someone help asap?

 

[dfergie]

when you push East does the dish go east? (same with West...) if so they are right red / black or red white should be bigger wires, sounds like you have them right (reverse if not) try reversing the other 2 wires and see what happens... Sounds like you have G5 for sure, the VCII is working also...

 

[jself1982]

It goes E, and it goes W when I press those buttons on the remote, just when I try to get it to turn off G5 I get actuator error unless I jiggle the wires, does this sound like I need to redo any loose wires and does this mean my actuator is still good?

 

[linuxman]

The red and black should be bigger wires, and they should go to M1 and M2 on the back of the analog unit.

The brown goes to ground, and the blue goes to the little top hat symbol all under the actuator hookup on the back of the unit.

You may need to go into the setup and set the East and West limits if you still get an error. Or if you are up against the end of the actuator the mechanical limits may give you that error too. You can try reversing the M1 and M2 and see if it will let you go the other way in the case of it being against the mechanical limits.

That's the way it hooks up on the back of my old Drake, and my HTS VIII+.

Hope that helps.

Fred

 

[GrumpyGuy]

Yes. So far it sounds like your actuator is probably OK. Redo the small gage wire connections. Make sure neither of the conductors are broken inside the insulation, that the insulation is intact, that the wire ends and the terminals are clean, and reconnect them.

Things are looking good. Don't break out the drill just yet.

 

[drhydro]

It goes E, and it goes W when I press those buttons on the remote, just when I try to get it to turn off G5 I get actuator error unless I jiggle the wires, does this sound like I need to redo any loose wires and does this mean my actuator is still good?

Sounds like you have loose / broken wiring. And yes, it seems like your actuator is working.

 

[jself1982]

Ok it died! How do I use the drill?

It had started going to the right satellite, and made a funny noise, slowed down and came to a stop, now I get no movement at all!

 

[dfergie]

I pulled the end cap off of the motor on one of my actuator's, and hooked drill to the armature... but you might want to wait until you are sure the motor is bad and not the wiring... hook some lamp cord to the motor and touch to a Car Battery and see if it moves...

 

[dashaund]

I'd definately be checking out the wiring first. Not only would it be easier and cheaper, but if you're wiring is bad or wrong, a new actuator wouldn't fix it. Good luck and stay persitent...I hear it's worth it.

 

[GrumpyGuy]

I pulled the end cap off of the motor on one of my actuator's, and hooked drill to the armature...

See attached illustration

 

[linuxman]

That illustration has got to go into the hall of records or something.

Very nice!!!

I am printing it out now.

Fred

 

[dfergie]

Thats cool... gonna add to the FAQ's