Titanium Satellite Titanium ASC1 Positioner Troubleshooting

[bill1]

Hello. I am on my second ASC1. The first one stopped powering on after a severe electrical storm. I the saw that they were being discontinued so i bought a refurbished one from Titanium's site instead of repairing the original. Now the refurbished unit will not move the dish. Gives the E/W limit switch error. The actuator tests fine, works great with an old 922 4DTV. Even swapped another known good actuator and same thing. So far I have searched the forums and tested with a multimeter for momentary voltage across M1 and M2 after clearing the error and attempting to move E or W and I see a slight change, but maybe my multimeter doesn't respond fast enough to tell? Also I've noticed that either M1 to ground or M2 to ground are both always around +36V. Is this normal? Does one or the other relay switch to ground depending on direction? The relays are clicking when I press E/W, but the count never changes. Any ideas on what to check next? Thanks!

 

[primestar31]

Titanium Hey Brian, help needed.

Bill, I'm positive Brian can help you out, OR get it repaired for you.

 

[bill1]

Thanks. I'm sure it's something simple enough. These have been great positioners and would love to keep it running.

 

[Titanium]

Camping. Will return Monday.

 

[arlo]

Are you able to test the reed switch with your meter?
The sensor input has to detect open and closed transitions pretty quick or you'll get the error.

 

[bill1]

Are you able to test the reed switch with your meter?
The sensor input has to detect open and closed transitions pretty quick or you'll get the error.

Yes, the reed switch tests fine. Also works with a 922 4DTV.

 

[FTA4PA]

The relays are clicking when I press E/W, but the count never changes. Any ideas on what to check next? Thanks!

Have you checked the two sensor wires (S1 and S2) for continuity from the actuator to the ASC1?

 

[bill1]

Have you checked the two sensor wires (S1 and S2) for continuity from the actuator to the ASC1?

Yes, All wiring is fine. It is something within the ASC1.

 

[KE4EST]

Also I've noticed that either M1 to ground or M2 to ground are both always around +36V. Is this normal?

Yes.

Does one or the other relay switch to ground depending on direction?

Also yes.

Do you have any sort of momentary push button switch and some spare wire?
Disconnect the unit from the dish completely( not wiring to dish motor or sensor).
Put the switch across the sensor terminals. This takes a little coordination, but start with one hand(finger) tapping the switch. Then with other had try to move East or West? Does it error out? or think it is moving? Better yet clip your meter across the M1 and M2 terminal. One direction should show approx. +36 Volts and the other direction should show -36V. You got to keep a steady tapping rhythm or it will error out on a good unit. But it don't have to be perfect, as long as you are relatively fast. If the unit does not error out that will rule out the ASC1.

Are you using sheilded cable going out to your dish? If not try putting oh maybe a 250-500pF capacitor across S1 and S2 and put a 0.1µF cap across the motor leads and maybe one of each to ground from the motor terminals. This will cut down on motor noise that may be getting induced onto your sensor wire.

 

[bill1]

Yes.

Also yes.

Do you have any sort of momentary push button switch and some spare wire?
Disconnect the unit from the dish completely( not wiring to dish motor or sensor).
Put the switch across the sensor terminals. This takes a little coordination, but start with one hand(finger) tapping the switch. Then with other had try to move East or West? Does it error out? or think it is moving? Better yet clip your meter across the M1 and M2 terminal. One direction should show approx. +36 Volts and the other direction should show -36V. You got to keep a steady tapping rhythm or it will error out on a good unit. But it don't have to be perfect, as long as you are relatively fast. If the unit does not error out that will rule out the ASC1.

Are you using sheilded cable going out to your dish? If not try putting oh maybe a 250-500pF capacitor across S1 and S2 and put a 0.1µF cap across the motor leads and maybe one of each to ground from the motor terminals. This will cut down on motor noise that may be getting induced onto your sensor wire.

Thanks. I assumed that was how it was supposed to work. I will see if I can dig up a momentary switch and check the sensor circuit. I have also connected the ASC1 directly to the actuator as well as a good spare with a short piece of ribbon cable on my bench and it gives the E/W error on both without energizing the motor for even 1/2 second. Both actuators work and count position fine with my old 922 4DTV.

I am using shielded Commscope 8136 satellite ribbon cable. I have never had any issues with missing counts or anything like that.

 

[arlo]

I would (and have) unbolt the motor and hook it up inside.
It is a reed switch motor right? Or hook it up to a 12V battery with a multimeter hooked across the sensor contacts in continuity mode and watch (or listen) for evenly spaced make/breaks

 

[KE4EST]

I would (and have) unbolt the motor and hook it up inside.
It is a reed switch motor right? Or hook it up to a 12V battery with a multimeter hooked across the sensor contacts in continuity mode and watch (or listen) for evenly spaced make/breaks

He says it is working fine with another controller, thus the reason I gave him to test out the ASC1 with the switch. He also said he tried a motor inside on his work bench. Could also be as simple as a loose/broke wire going to the S1 or S2 on the inside of the unit.

 

[FTA4PA]

Could also be as simple as a loose/broke wire going to the S1 or S2 on the inside of the unit.

He said he already checked those for continuity when I mentioned it back in post #7 so that should not be the issue.

Have you checked the two sensor wires (S1 and S2) for continuity from the actuator to the ASC1?

Yes, All wiring is fine. It is something within the ASC1.

 

[arlo]

He says it is working fine with another controller, thus the reason I gave him to test out the ASC1 with the switch. He also said he tried a motor inside on his work bench. Could also be as simple as a loose/broke wire going to the S1 or S2 on the inside of the unit.

Is there a schematic or is it all RE?

 

[KE4EST]

He said he already checked those for continuity when I mentioned it back in post #7 so that should not be the issue.

Since he says it works fine on another controller....I am talking about the wires inside the ASC1.

 

[FTA4PA]

Since he says it works fine on another controller....I am talking about the wires inside the ASC1.

My bad. Re-reading your post you did say on the inside of the unit.

 

[bill1]

Since he says it works fine on another controller....I am talking about the wires inside the ASC1.

Everything else seems to be working. Polarity control is fine. Unit powers up. Just doesn't move the dish. The actuator indeed works with another controller. Stinks because it is less than 1 year old and it would be nice to figure out what happened so I can repair it.

 

[KE4EST]

Everything else seems to be working. Polarity control is fine. Unit powers up. Just doesn't move the dish.The CTUator indeed works with another controller It is less than 1 year old and it would be nice to figure out what happened so I can repair it.

Have you tried the test I mentioned before? You could even take two stiff wires and tape one down to the work bench or put something heavy on it. The hover the other above and mess with it until, you can tap, tap, tap them them together just for a quick test.

 

[bill1]

Have you tried the test I mentioned before? You could even take two stiff wires and tape one down to the work bench or put something heavy on it. The hover the other above and mess with it until, you can tap, tap, tap them them together just for a quick test.

I haven't had time yet today, but i can try later. From what I understand from searching the forum, it should at least put out a voltage for 1/2 second across M1 and M2 then stop if either the sensor or sensor circuit was not working. Does that sound right?

 

[KE4EST]

Does that sound right?

Correct, but most meters are too slow to catch it, especially auto ranging types. Right now both are at the same potential of 36V so if you put a meter across it is will show aprrox. 0 volts. 300-500mS is the on time before the error so you will just get a blur of numbers. If the test a mentioned works though, you will be able to see if both relays are switching GND properly.