USALS
- Thread starter kdjuan
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USALS is for KU band. You select your south most satellite to your location and enter your longitude and latitude. USALS will calculate the rest of the satellite positions on your list. There are too many different mounts for it to work with a C-Band set up. I am sure that others will give you more details on my basic answer.
USALS is a calculated aiming program that works with USALS HH motors to automatically aim a calibrated dish/motor at the selected satellite. Typically it is used for KU band motors. It does not work with DiSEqC 1.2 based controllers.
There are a few KU motor install guides on this site that provide the steps for installing and programming a USALS dish. Basically, activate USALS in the receiver, Input the longitude/latitude for the install location. Assemble the dish and install on a USALS HH motor. Set the dish elevation, motor elevation and roughly aim for true South. Connect the coax, power on the STB, program the first satellite and select an active transponder. The motor will drive to the calculated satellite position. Adjust the motor azimuth to lock and optimize the signal quality.
There are a few KU motor install guides on this site that provide the steps for installing and programming a USALS dish. Basically, activate USALS in the receiver, Input the longitude/latitude for the install location. Assemble the dish and install on a USALS HH motor. Set the dish elevation, motor elevation and roughly aim for true South. Connect the coax, power on the STB, program the first satellite and select an active transponder. The motor will drive to the calculated satellite position. Adjust the motor azimuth to lock and optimize the signal quality.
I have a similar set up. I use USALS for my KU dish and DiSEqC 1.2 for my C-Band dish via the ASC1.
Thought both dishes had linear actuators and using DiSEqC 1.2 controllers? USALS is designed to work with USALS HH motors, so it won't be compatible with either dish.
Six, one half dozen or the other. The typical 8' mesh dish on a quality actuator and appropriate gauge wire has a current draw that is well within the specs of either controller.
A 4' dish on a junk actuator using thin gauge distribution wire could present a higher current draw.
A 4' dish on a junk actuator using thin gauge distribution wire could present a higher current draw.
My DG 380 is HH. I simply meant that I have one C dish and 1 KU dish using 1 receiver.
Sorry for the misunderstanding. My comment was to kdjuan... We were posting at the same time.
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