Wall wiring & "standard install"

[sbalmos]

In another thread about switching from E* to D*, I mentioned that my condo walls are a pain to wire, IMO. I was wondering to what lengths an installer will try and fishline additional coax as part of a standard install?

In my case, it's only one or two walls to go through, horizontally (the condo is all one floor). But it's a wall that has a lot of the kitchen plumbing, among other things.

BTW, does a D* installer normally bring two-jack wall plates and those flat coax jumpers for feeding through a patio door jamb? I have two jumpers already for my existing E* install. But the other thread replies mentioned that D*'s install is 4 or more coax runs from the satellite to the room splitters.

Thanks!

--S

 

[iwc5893]

A standard install covers drilling through one exterior and one interior wall...fishing and such is considered custom labor and you will have to pay for it.

They should have the two jack wall plates and flatwire as part of their consumable loadout.

 

[Joe Diamond]

I always charge enough for the flat coax to pay for the return service trip. They pass a signal ok until you use them for their intended purpose......close a door or window on them.......good by signal.

The reasons for charges to fish walls are......the ratio of time to results ( go it fast and do damage) OR do it slow and get it right, sometimes with damage. Who will fix the damage? Why take a chance for free?

IF no smoke or water come out of the hole and you get your drill back...you probably got it right!

Joe

 

[charper1]

I have 2, 4yo flat jumpers that have been in service non-stop, actually in windows that are open and shut MANY times per month that have yet to fail. Would I use then if not needed, NO, but if you buy the good ones, they work fine.

 

[sbalmos]

Yeah, actually I went a little farther. The two flats in the existing E* installation I've got sitting in a groove I cut into the door track with some tin snips.

I've got a friend I play in two bands with that is an E* installer (sadly he didn't do my initial install. Didn't know he was one until I was telling him the horror story afterwards). He's going to look at my wiring. I had the hare-brained idea later tonight that maybe we could tie a line on the existing wall jack line, pull it out, and then pull both coaxes through the path. We're not drilling any new holes or that in the interior studs. Just running a second coax along with the existing one in the wall. Maybe it'll work, maybe not.

That's what happens when a software engineer starts thinking electrically. Dangerous stuff.

 

[Bob Nielsen]

It might work if you are lucky and the cable isn't clamped (or even worse, stapled) to a stud.

 

[Joe Diamond]

Yeah, actually I went a little farther. The two flats in the existing E* installation I've got sitting in a groove I cut into the door track with some tin snips.

I've got a friend I play in two bands with that is an E* installer (sadly he didn't do my initial install. Didn't know he was one until I was telling him the horror story afterwards). He's going to look at my wiring. I had the hare-brained idea later tonight that maybe we could tie a line on the existing wall jack line, pull it out, and then pull both coaxes through the path. We're not drilling any new holes or that in the interior studs. Just running a second coax along with the existing one in the wall. Maybe it'll work, maybe not.

That's what happens when a software engineer starts thinking electrically. Dangerous stuff.

sbalmos,

It can be done that way.

Do not use string. Find wire....like florist wire.that is thin but strong. Do use the existing cable as a pull wire. As long as you have the other wire you are ok. As mentioned above you may discover the existing wire is stapled to a stud. That is the reason for the wire......you gotta break whatever is holding the existing cable to the stud..........IF you can get to both ends of the existing cable try moving them. That is a clue. If nothing moves your chances of pulling wire with that cable are less.....but you still MAY need it if this fails so...EZ!

There are other tricks

Joe

 

[Joe Diamond]

I have 2, 4yo flat jumpers that have been in service non-stop, actually in windows that are open and shut MANY times per month that have yet to fail. Would I use then if not needed, NO, but if you buy the good ones, they work fine.

Charper1,
No fair! You understand the problem /issue and avoid screwing things up.
Even the best flat coax cannot stand dog, cat or rat chews. They cost less than a dollar.....$.12 I think............but I often...not always......have problems with them.

And word on the street is that DTV and the HSPs back charge techs $100.00 for ANY kind of service call or do over. And they get people who will run around for that crap. The twelve dollars, each, I charge motivates folks to drill the wall.

Joe

 

[BluegrassGuy1976]

$50 chargeback if it is a service call within 7 days of Installation. Not hurting the techs, YET, but the HSP's hate it. Repeat Service calls has been our top issue for weeks now they want them to drop substantially.

LOL most of the time I start talking "custom work" and "custom charge" for this that or the other and most people shut up and let me do my job, my way. That said I don't dick anyone over and do messy work, but I'd rather do it my way, and in a way that is ACCEPTABLE to the person.

 

[Rough2000]

That's what happens when a software engineer starts thinking electrically. Dangerous stuff.

Never trust a software engineer with a screwdriver in his pocket.